UKC

I used to climb pretty regularly in Chamonix, but have not visited the alps in about 15 years.

I gather that the weather and conditions have changed quite a bit in the last decade and a half.

Back when I was climbing there, I climbed anywhere from April through October and found good conditions on the north faces and couloir climbs.   From what I understand, everything is hotter and conditions in the summer are not great for the classic snow/ice routes.  

I'm planning a trip to Cham in 2024.   Thinking of late April or early May.  Going with a friend who has never climbed in the alps, so we're looking to do some casual classic routes.   

Guessing that at that time of year, many of the cable cars will not be running, so I may be limited to things that I can access via the Midi.   

What is the collective wisdom of the forum?   What's the ideal time to go?  

When checking websites such as camptocamp you can see that a lot of the summer classics are now being done in May as well, and often June is already too hot. But a snap cold in July plus decent snowpack might put them in condition again. 

The hard part about planning is going to be the sheer unpredictability of spring weather and snowpack. Going in April may mean you have to get around on skis or snowshoes, but then again it might not. You might face winter conditions, but maybe not. 

Planning for alpine climbing already involved a fair bit of luck, but it's even worse now... :/

This year in early June a lot of routes were only  done with snowshoes or skis. And all the mixed classics were in good condition mid June until the end of month really. There was exceptional spring snowfall but many who came out late may early June wished they'd delayed by a week. 

Midi is often closed end of April too. Opened again may 1st. 

Last two years July was HOT lots of big crevasses opening up and rock fall. 

Based off this I aim for mid end of June but apparently this year totally different, so might go early July

Best approach be flexible and plan last minute if you can! 

Can't add anything useful but watching with interest.

If the summer is wet then late sept/October can be good - watch the summer weather carefully to avoid going when things are too dry in the Autumn.

Probably about 1975.

As pointed out by those above it is pretty random, though watching the Chamonix forecasts, the Chamoniarde conditions updates, and the webcams obsessively through the winter will give you a good picture of what you are letting yourself in for.

I spend every winter (except Covid) since 2015 in Chamonix and can discern little or no pattern. They often get the phenomenon of “Janvril” with lots of cold fresh snow in April. Whether snowy or not the formation of ice seems particularly hit and miss.

One thing you can pretty much rely on is the lifts, except in the case of a mechanical.

With the above caveat of something conking out, the Midi never closes at this time. Its annual closure is November and December, reopening for Christmas.
 

The Skyway from Courmayeur does however close on or around the 1st May. Similarly the Grands Montets closes 1st May. The Brevant gondola remained open until about the 25th April this year for some peculiar reason, but that doesn’t give access to what you are after.

The Le Tour lift closes in the middle of April. However, that does not provide safe access to the Albert Premiere hut at that time of year. 
 

in your shoes I would be planning on accessing most things on skis, or at the very least flogging around on snowshoes.