UKC

I've been trying to find sites with average weather details during the short climbing season on Lenin Peak but I'm struggling.

Best time to climb seems to be a two month period, July and August.

Generally speaking, what does the weather tend to be like outside these two months?

Also during this 2 month window, does it tend to be more stable aiming to summit in the middle say end of July early August?

Is there less snow and or higher risk of avalanche at the end of August?

Thanks in advance

Best c

In the past 5 years I would say the weather has been better in July than August.

I would also say go earlier rather than later. Snow bridges across the crevasses should be intact and snow falling should stay as snow, rather than melt mid morning and slide off in wet avalanches.

The season is July-August in so far that is when the camps at Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp will be operated. Outside this period you would need to entirely independent which might be your plan anyway?

As others have noted that within this short period snow conditions tend to be better during the first half.  As elsewhere, the effects of global warming is evident and there is a discernible trend in this respect evident in recent years on the glacier approach to Camp 1.

The weather - based on my experience of the last three seasons - is not so predictable.  This year it was very warm, the previous year was much colder with significant snow falls, the year before the last was fairly stable! High winds and significant snow falls are an ever present possibility on Lenin, but perhaps less so (particularly snow) during the months of July and August.  Avalanche risk will obviously typically vary with the prevailing snow fall, but this year, due to the high temperatures, the passage to Camp 1 experienced an avalanche triggered by a serac collapse.  

So, with the usual caveats about generalising, on ‘average’ July will typically provide much better conditions under foot and perhaps in the weather too!  August can see the glacier become more challenging and dangerous and the weather perhaps a bit less stable.

Not sure how helpful the above is.  Probably confirms what you had already concluded!