UKC

/ Midi lift bivi spots/ midi-plan route

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tingle - on 17 May 2018

Hi, wondering if anyone knows of a good bivi spot near the midi? I have never stayed in that area so i dont know if its super controlled biving like other popular spots, of course i will be only set up in the late hours. 

 

Also if anyone has any close pictures of the abseil off the rognon and the short climb to the plan summit on their profile let me know.

Thanks

Pete Houghton - on 17 May 2018
In reply to tingle:

If you are interested in bivvying part-way along the Midi-Plan route, then the rocks at the top of the Tournier Spur just before you reach the Col du Plan are hard to beat. Spacious, easy to get to, great views of the sunset on the Midi north face.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=296714
https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=294711

With regards to the abeil from the Rognon, there are several... you'll find a sea of tat and various anchors at all points along the crest of the ridge. There's a bit of an airy step to get to the options further along.

tingle - on 17 May 2018
In reply to Pete Houghton:

Great stuff Pete, looks like a nice spot ill give it a go.

Im just looking for how exposed the climbing is on both sides, most videos seem to not show the rock sections. 

Fredt on 17 May 2018
In reply to tingle:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=69180&lgn=35691

Shows where the abseil off the Rognon landed us, and the climb from the col to the Plan summit.

Before you get to the top of the Rognon, there is a scramble gully/chimney down to the right, often with a rope in place. If you miss it, then you get the airy steps mentioned above, and a long abseil. Our abseil was a full length rope, and we shared with another team to tie our two ropes together to do it in one.

Fred (that's me in the picture)

Pete Houghton - on 17 May 2018
In reply to tingle:

Around the anchors on top of the rognon is by far and away the most exposed feeling, the actual climbing up to the summit of the Aiguille du Plan and climbing back up the rognon is relatively friendly. Good gear, nice sunny snow slopes below you, it doesn't feel out there at all. But on top of the rognon you've got 1000m of air below your left leg, and you definitely notice it.


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