UKC

Considering a quick trip to Cham/Courmayeur in early May for some mid grade day hits from the lifts.

The likes of Mallory-Porter, Contamine Negri/Grisolle/Mazeaud, maybe N face Tour Ronde or Chere.

From the latest OHM reports it sounds like at least some climbing is getting done at the moment - Negri, Chere.

We won’t have skis, so the hope/gamble is that the conditions will be snowy and cold enough for climbing but still approachable in boots (of course could hire snow shoes but preferably not), and of course that the routes and approaches won’t be loaded in fresh snow.

Is this hope/gamble a reasonable one for early May? Obviously big weather could still come in and dump a heap of snow between now and then, but any general insights would be welcome as I haven’t been there this early in the year before.

Edit: I know Torino isn’t open at least yet, and am assuming Panoramic will also not be open at that point although I haven’t actually checked.

In reply to mcawle: be aware that the Skyway in Italy closes from the 2nd May this spring so it is just the Midi.

I can pass no comment on the climbing conditions. As you point out it is not possible to predict what weather will befall us before then. However there is a lot of snow up there now.

As things stand I would not plan on just being able to access climbing routes without skis or snowshoes.

When we skied past the Tour Ronde last week it looked most uninviting to me. Mostly bare ice.

In reply to HammondR:

That's useful, thanks - particularly re: Skyway (I had missed that) and Tour Ronde.

Cheers.

In reply to mcawle:

Bump - is anyone around Cham at the moment with a view on conditions around the Midi and Cosmiques? Would be on foot as opposed to skis... any insights on snow depth/consistency etc. would be welcome.

I saw on the previous OHM update that the Negri and Cosmiques had seen some traffic but that was early April and I'm guessing ski approaches.

The Triangle is looking very dry from what I can see on the Midi webcam.

Possible objectives are Midi-Plan, Contamine-Mazeaud, maybe Lachenal traverse and so on.

In reply to mcawle:

there's more snow here above 2000m than there has been all winter.  Skis (or snow shoes at the very least) will be essential for a while still

In reply to philipjardine:

Haha typical. Thanks, I appreciate the info.

In reply to mcawle:

Captain caution here. There was no snow (relatively) til the ski season finished. Since then it hasn't stopped (at altitude), lower down It's very wet. There are therefore several layers of wet heavy unbonded snow with water running between the ground (relatively warm) and the wet heavy 'slush'. Almost every other day, Aostasera.it has reports of crevasse rescues and serac collapses and avalanches. There have been serious discussions about issuing 'advice not to climb/ski tour'. (In Aosta, I don't follow the French media). Although in the end, they backed off from that. 

It's proving to be a very difficult opening to the season. 

What we do always has risks, but the local climbers/tourers mantra. You go to the mountains when they (sorry can't underline 'they') are ready, not just the climbers. 

I hope this helps. 

In reply to aostaman:

That's really helpful, thanks - and yes, fully prepared to stay in town unless the conditions are reasonable, which it sounds like they probably won't be. Not going to gamble with borderline or poor conditions.

Edit: I don't know the Aosta side very well, is there any moderate sport within striking distance of Chamonix via the tunnel which has a chance of being dry and not e.g. in avalanche run off etc.?

I do have an Aosta sport guide book, so I'll research myself as well, but local knowledge welcome.

In reply to mcawle:

Depends what your definition of "moderate sport" is.

I did Lo Dzerby (5c) at the  Corma di Machaby a couple of weeks ago. It was really good - 12 or so pitches with a a couple of 5c crux pitches in the middle. Dry and sunny. The bar / resteraunt (Lo Dzerby) at the start of the way down is cash only - no cards.

It's about 45 mins drive from Courmayeur.

You might also think about  Lillaz - it's a nice slab in the sun - routes up to about 5b/5c, and 2 or 3 pitches max.

In reply to mcawle:

Was climbing from the Torino hut the other week. Ski’s or snowshoe needed, still hard work getting to the routes
 

Been a few times at the shoulder seasons and definitely mixed weather (rain once for most of a week and another perfect blue skies)

enjoy 

In reply to llanberis36:

And yes definitely recommend Machaby if weather poor in the mountains 

In reply to gooberman-hill:

Good point, I should probably have said easy sport - like 4c, 5a.

Lillaz is a good shout although wasn't planning to hire a car... won't rule it out though.

I'm guessing that Mont Chetif is probably still under snow...

In reply to llanberis36:

Aye aye, thank you.