UKC

I am trying to decide on an axe for a second alpine trip, general mountaineering up to AD-, in early September this year. I've read the whole debate about ice axe length; but what about the SHAPE of the shaft?

My understanding is:
straight shaft - plunges easily; tradition; many alpine techniques are designed for it (eg slot belay)

curved shaft - easier to climb with on more vertical ground (incl getting out of crevasses!) incl protecting of knuckles; less good at plunging, especially in very hard snow / ice; for classic alpine techniques it is more complicated than a straight shaft and some suggest it can even be dangerous.

Interesting that classic axes eg Grivel Brenva have evolved to a curved shape; and the Grivel Evo even more so. Would welcome views on whether the shape matters at all. My tastes err on the traditional side and I'd rather not get something alpine guides would snort at.

I repeat, no comments on length please.

In reply to gordouli:
Go straight and you won't have any worries.

In reply to gordouli:
Get a straight-shafted axe. I don't like curved-shafted axes much for general use, although of course they tend to be better for technical climbing.

In reply to gordouli: by the sounds of it you need the petzl aztarex, it's a hybrid axe with a slighty curved shaft and a technical pick. This still has the plunging benefis and light weight a straight non technical ae would have, but also has the benefits of a technical pick for hard ice and rock whilst the slight curve in the shaft helps protect your knuckles, furthermore it comes with a fold away finger rest to further aid technical climbing. Its an option if you cant decide on a definate straight or curved shafted axe.... get the one in the middle.

http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=499

I used one in cham last month and was more than impressed. Also used the Grivel evo and found that to be an excellent general mountain axe too.

From what i'v seen lots of guides use the aztarex so i doubt they would snort at you for having one, it is an excellent tool.

In reply to Gaz lord:

we have used mountain tech classic curve straight shafted for years and they do the job perfectly. I do not think mountain tech are trading anymore but am sure there must be an equivalent axe around.

In reply to Gaz lord:

ps I once climbed with a really lightweight axe and it was horrendous, it was virtually useless as it had no weight behind it.

In reply to Gaz lord:

ps I once climbed with a really lightweight axe and it was horrendous, it was virtually useless as it had no weight behind it. Quite unnerving.

In reply to crieff427: the aztarex isnt a horribly light weight axe it is 500g, thats 145g lighter than a quark but also heavier than most normal straight shafted axe. Others come in around the same weight. Anyway its just an option for the op, they could also check the petzl cosmi'tec axe which is the same principal as the aztarex. ie go to a shop and see which one feels best. That said you never really know until you're out on the snow...

In reply to crieff427:

I have one of these and they're brilliant.

In reply to gordouli:
I use a pair of Simond Najas and find them top notch. Really nice weight and a slight curve in the shaft but still good for plunging.
Have a wee look at them matey.

In reply to gordouli: Black Diamond makes an excellent straight shafted tool with a curve below the head and a technical pick. It's a very good and versatile mid grade tool.
It looks like they fit the hammer version with the tech pick and the adze with the classic one, but a few days ago we managed to get the guys at Snell Cham to put the tech pick into an adze version.
Have a look http://www.bdel.com/gear/venom.php

In reply to gordouli: P.S. There's a good choice of lengths as well...

In reply to gordouli:

I use a 55cm Chouinard Zero, bought in the 1970s.

Unsurpassable, IMHO.

CJ.

In reply to gordouli:

I think you are foolhardy to neglect the question of tool length... sounds like another customer for the mountain rescue... sigh!

Straight or bent is a minor consideration compared to length.

In reply to Bruce Hooker:

Read his original post! He clearly says he's already thoroughly looked into the length options. What kind of throw away remark is that for someone who's trying to ensure he's got the most suitable equipment?!!!

In reply to DorsetGareth:

That's as maybe but once he's up there if it's too short there's no way he'll get the same satisfaction from the effort. Of course technique and style can make up for slight inadequacies in terms of size.

Why not rent a curved axe for a few days and see how you get on with it? Decent gear shops should be able to provide one. Ok, it won't be top of the range but it will give you an idea of what it feels like and then you could make a more informed decision when buying. I don't think it's particularly expensive for a few days.

Anyway, if you're looking at routes to AD then one straight shaft is all you need. If you'll be doing steeper stuff later then consider getting a tech tool like the Petzl Aztar or Quark.

In reply to Anonymous:

I just sold a pair (axe/hammer) on Ebay for 210.00. Was only asking for 55.00!

In reply to sophie291188:

Didn't intend to criticize the Aztarex it was just something I remembered that had happened to me on the midi plan the first time I did it. This same time, on the way back up the snow arete at the exposed bit, the guy I had hooked up to climb it with sat astride the arete like a silly donkey and refused to move. It was like trying to coax an ass out of a barn. Comical to look back on. I'll never know why I didn't just untie..
..Oh yeah it was my Mammut rope.

In reply to gordouli: The current Grivel Airtech with the steel head looks great. Or DMM cirque as a cheaper alternative. That is what I would get to replace my MT 55cm if I lost it. Both of these axes are designed for exactly the uses you mentioned.

In reply to Jasonic: I agree...DMM Cirque is a great all rounder. Paired with a stubai hammer I can even climb steep ice...at a wall. I did appreciate the easy placement on steep frozen snow on Tacul tho'...I don't think a straight handle would have been as easy.

In reply to gordouli:
Look for a nice traditional Carlet Moser Gabarou

Thank you all for comments, I really appreciate being able to gather views like this - anyone who's wondering, I'm aiming for a 66cm straight Grivel Airtech (am 6'3")... Now you can all tell me why that's such a bad choice, but my mind is made up...

In reply to gordouli:

Perfect for your requirements

Slugain