UKC

Has anyone got any up to idea of current conditions on the North face? 

There was (finally) a decent amount of fresh snow last weekend, I doubt it's been done since then. It's now getting a lot warmer, so if the temperatures drop again it might be quite decent. But currently the forecasts are very uncertain after the Easter weekend.

Im thinking early next week whilst the forecast is still good. Im in the area from tomorrow so I will get eyes on then. 

Looks hideously dry on the webcams etc. compared to the autumn. See here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CcPt3toNq9k/

Yes there was some snow, but it was also windy af and cold so nothing has actually stuck to it. Have there been reports of people on it?

Im heading to Zermatt tomorrow so ill get a closer look then. I've not heard of anyone climbing it which is why I wonder if the conditions aren't ideal.  If some of that snow actually stayed on the face it could come good with this forecast. We will see...

 Good attitude.

It goes if its black, just harder, at least you can find the belays.

Typical conundrum with alpine classics , optimal conditions and good weather equals mega queuing hassle .

So sad to see the Matterhorn with so little snow on it nowadays. Particularly the lower part of the Zmutt Ridge, which always looked so beautiful, even in the height of summer:

https://www.gordonstainforth.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/matterhorn-42...

What's the orange cross for?

Oh, it came from a web article I wrote a few years ago about it. Do you not know – seriously?? Think about it. Look up its very famous history ... Perhaps nothing more has been written about one accident in the whole of mountaineering history.

Don't listen to the misdirection, its where the treasure is hidden.

Ah - I asked in haste and didn't look to every step 

Don't worry. Just a momentary negligence

Well spotted, John.

I also did not immediately think of the original accident site. It just brought fraught  memories back.

Coming down the fixed ropes , a lady just below , who was also unroped, with no back up, lost her footing and was panicking / screaming, hanging off the rope with only gloved hands and legs cycling.

I could only look away , as it was futile to try to rush down and effect some sort of assistance.

Fortunately when the screaming stopped she had managed to get her feet back on.

I cobbled a cows tail to the rope after that episode.

Probably not exactly on the position of the cross as I think the original ascent route and fixed line differ slightly.

Post nothing in haste.

Have they swapped the Matterhorn for Besso?

The present fixed ropes are on the left side of the steep rock rib directly above the shoulder. Whymper's route made an ascending traverse from the top of the shoulder for several hundred feet to the right, across the north face to another gentler rock rib, ascended this, then made an ascending traverse back left on steep snow to a point above the top of the present fixed ropes. All absolutely amazing for 1865.