UKC

Hi,

I'm looking for info on big winter routes in Norway. I know Norway has loads of fosseklatring but what about winter alpine? Gullies and couloirs at WI4/M4 and above. Length 300m or more.

I have books for Hurrungane and Romsdal which both have what I'm looking for. But what would be the other options?

In reply to adnix: one word... Lyngen

In reply to adnix:

lyngen fjord looks pretty impressive. not really alpine - nor gullies for that matter - but certainly over 300m.

alpinist 34 did a bit on it.

In reply to Hvit ut:

snap!

In reply to ice.solo: tbf I think its been more developed for ski mountaineers than pure alpine

In reply to Hvit ut:

all i know of it is the albert leitchfried article - huge icefalls from sea level, accessible by boat.

one day.....

In reply to adnix: http://www.nordnorskklatreskole.no/alpinklatring.html

Ask these guys in lofoten a quick email will surely set you on the right lines

In reply to Hvit ut:

I've been to Lyngen once on easter for snowboarding. For such it's super good but I'm not so sure about alpine climbing. They say the rock quality is very friable, too. But I may have it wrong here and I need to check my files again.

http://www.sunalp.no/article.asp?w=1350205&x=3127

In reply to Hvit ut:

Lofoten is supposed to be very good in winter. They've had two winter meets there, too.

alpinebriefs.wordpress.com/inspirations—3/

In reply to adnix: Hunnedalen. Check it out. As its quite far south it can be more susceptible to warmer weather than the areas mentioned already further north, but there are some mega links between 100-500m!

Andy

In reply to adnix: Another word might be Senja

In reply to Nick Harvey: Indeed, Urban Golob's photos from there look fantastic!

In reply to adnix:

I went to Lofoten the first two weeks of April last year. The possibilities for alpine like routes as well as ice climbs starting from near sea level is staggering (very hard to come by info though - just drive around, spot a great looking line and climb it!). Unfortunately April was a bit late (constrained by school holidays) and anything south facing was getting stripped and falling down and the rapidly increasing length of days and of temperatures conspired against us; given the choice I would go a month earlier. Ended up only getting one good route which was fantastic - one of my best ever day's climbing. The Rockfax hints at possibilities and I am sure you could do more research. I would definitely go again.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Northern Norway has best season in Feb or March. Before it's too dark and after the ice is gone.

In reply to andyinglis:

Thanks for the tip on Hunnedalen. The weather looks like the temperatures are actually -5C less than those of Romsdal.

Looks like a massive storm will hit Norway now. Hurrungune weather report has 150km/h winds...

In reply to adnix: yep weather here (Harstad) is wank at the mo! Though we're much more sheltered than some places in the SW. Horrible weather in the fjords but the mountains are getting a nice dump of snow. Just hoping this thaw will allow for lots of nice ice to form over the next couple of weeks or so.

In reply to adnix:

This blog might provide some info:

alpineaddiction.no/category/blog

In reply to Hvit ut:

The good thing with the storm is that on west side you might get conditions like this.

www.vimeo.com/20236012