/ Rab Expedition 8000 Mitts
Has anyone used these and have any thoughts (on the current/latest version)? Particularly on how compatible they are with a jumar and dextrous compared to the competition.
I have heard some very bad reviews of the old version Rab expedition mitts, primarily that they were so bulky and lacking in dexterity so as to be useless for mountaineering and wouldn't easily fit in a jumar. My sense is the latest version is a complete redesign and now pretty good, but want to check before I splash the cash.
Need something beefy for 7000m this autumn.
I was looking at the Rab mitts as well and came to a conclusion that unless you go to the poles Black Diamond Mercury mitt are far superior.
When I was getting into cold weather trips I was gunning for the warmest mitt ever. In my experience expedition mitts are a bit pointless, unless for maybe long distance polar skiing. I have (or had, lost some of it in Finland) a Hestra setup with shell mitts, thick 600g primaloft liners and liner gloves. You might be surprised how far you can go with super thin poly liners and a waterproof shell mitt, when you're active anyway. If I was doing any sort of climbing with a mitt the last thing I would do is get big down expedition mitts, you'll have to take them off every time you need any sort of dexterity (basically for everything) which will freeze your fingers, and they'll be too warm the other half of the time. Can't recommend a modular system enough, you have all the warmth and all the dexterity.
Yes. I guided an 1,100km ski trip to the South Pole and did about 70% of it in just a pair of Windstopper gloves. I only used insulated mitts for the last 100-150km or so. Such trips now also often use (at least for clients) a neoprene hand-guard, mitt type of thing attached to the top of the pole, called 'pongos' that are actually quite good when you get used to them.
The problem with modular systems is sizing the individual layers to fit well and not restrict circulation nor compress insulation. I also find more than two layers ruins dexterity.
I have various insulated mitts but the ones I go to most are older model Marmot Primaloft expedition mitts. They're light, flexible, don't get compromised by sweat and a rip doesn't render them useless. I think the current version has a leather like palm which I'd be concerned about.
The old Rab expedition mitts were ridiculous, but the new ones look pretty good. Gloves are very individual things and are best tried on in person.
This Alpine Conditions page gives a summary of what is being climbed at the moment, what is 'in' nick and what the prospects are...
Margo Hayes has redpointed her third 9a+ with an ascent of Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana, Spain. The line was first climbed by Chris Sharma and is a 50 metre endurance-based route.