UKC

I'm planning a Slovenian rock climbing trip, looking to climb Triglav via Skalaska s Ladjom.

I'm struggling to find much useful online about it and was wondering what people who'd done it before could tell me?

Any idea what guidebook I should get? Recommendations of other routes or any Slovenian beta appreciated?

All the Best

Joe

The best english language guide for multipitch in the julian alps is probably this one:

https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/popular-climbing-routes-in-sloven...

I've done a few routes from it and found that the topos and descriptions are generally correct, but it often glosses over things like rock quality.  You can assume that mountain limestone will have significant loose sections.

Logistics are pretty easy.  You can drive to Aljazev Dom, which is a large hut just below the main face.    There's plenty of accommodation in Mojstrana, including a decent camp site in Dovje.

Alpine museum in Mojstrana has a well stocked book shop which had plenty of maps and english language guidebooks last time I visited.

In my copy the Skalaska route is listed as route 42.  Page 152.

It's worth knowing that before April most huts on the mountains are closed and the via ferrata may also be closed for seasonal cleaning / repair.

I presume that your planning this for warmer months but if you're thinking about going March/April I would recommend bringing both snow shoes and crampons as the snow conditions are variable. 

I rented kit through Altitude Activities in Bled and would recommend them.

They gave us loads of info that was tricky to gleam from the internet. 

I've had trouble with higher huts being closed in early July. As I understand it they will move heaven and earth to get them all open in time for the local school holidays but before then it entirely depends on conditions.

I tried a route on the north face a few years ago, bailed after after a few pitches because we had a very near miss with rockfall. The whole cliff is a giant pile of choss

I have not climbed on that face, but the stuff I have climbed has run the gamut from "Pretty OK" to "Horrifying, unprotectable choss pile".  I'd advise any non-specialists to give the Dibanova Smer on Spik a wide berth.

You've seen this chaps YT channel already perhaps?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddElwdmWbDo&ab_channel=Andra%C5%BEEgart