UKC

One of my climbing parteners was using a 60m single rope on multipitch routes recently, he also took a 35m rope, and a 25m piece of 7mm cord. I questioned how he'd ab, because their would be a knot, he said he would abseil on just one rope. I'm not sure what you'd do with the other rope/cord, just let it trail beside you? And, this is the bit that really makes me wonder, how do you prevent the rope from running through your abseil anchor and you plummetting to your death?


And, as I assume the retrieval cord is not weight bearing, could you just use some 3mm cord? Or even just cheap 4mm polyprop? I asked him this question but he didn't really have an answer either way.

In reply to fishy1:
my main question would have been "why, on a multi-pitch route (probably weaving all over the shop) would you use a single rope and carry all that extra cordage?" your mate would have been much better off and safer (IMNSHO) with double ropes.

In reply to Dom Whillans: He only had a single rope, and ab stations are often more than 30m apart.

In reply to fishy1:

main rope through the anchor, knot, krab in knot and clipped round main rope

Exact setup depends on circumstances

useful to know if you knacker one of your ropes on a route

In reply to fishy1:
good to see you are still around fishy!
Not exactly sure what the correct name is but it is I believe used by ultra light alpine style accents. I'll try and describe.
Ok, 1 60m single rope and 60m of 5mm cord or whatever, para cord even? Tie a fig 8 on the bight at one end leaving a metre or so tail. Thread the knot and tail trough the anchor and using a screwgate, clip the fig 8 to the main rope. tie your retreving cord to the tail end of the rope. Abb down the rope as normal and pulling the cord will bing the whole caboodle back to you.
Not clear I know but thats how we did it yonkies ago when we only had one rope!

In reply to fishy1:

Tie a screwgate to the end of the rope. Thread end of rope into anchor and clip screwgate into rope. Tie cord to screwgate - pulling the cord pulls the screwgate down the rope and enables you to retrieve it. Mind you considering how easy it is to get normal ab ropes which have been tied together snagged, adding a krab into the equation could be asking for trouble if there is any likelihood of the rope getting caught when pulling the ropes down. Probably quite useable if there is no chance of getting the ropes stuck.

In reply to Dom Whillans:

Double ropes are (a) a bit of a pain on long routes (i.e. 10+ pitches) as one often ends up with a mess on a hanging belay, (b) the second can't belay with a gri-gri (and if they are going to be belaying for 18 hours this might be a good idea), (c) one can't use mini-traxions for moving together.

In reply to fishy1:

You need an anchor with a small aperture.

Thread the rope through the mallion (lets say) and tie a figure of 8 knot in the end. Attach a screwgate in the figure of 8 and clip it back on to the rope.

Now, attach the cord to the screw gate keeping it in your pocket allowing it to uncoil as you descend the single rope.

When at your next belay pull on the cord which will pull all of the single rope through the mallion and down. Watch out for the falling karabiner...

It saves weight as you only have to take a single rope and some cord and you may not even need a full single rope, just 35m lets say saving even more weight with little comprimise. More for alpine climbing I would say...

In reply to Gus Mayor:

4 responses that weren't there when I started my reply! I hope I move quicker than my typing!

In reply to David Coley (SDMC):
a) develop a system - rope bucket, rope hook etc
b) learn how to belay properly, with the ability to give a dynamic belay where necessary
c) ropeman mkII works fine on ropes down to 8.5mmm

excuse the somewhat flippant sounding answers, it is friday after all and i'm developing a thirst

In reply to Gus Mayor:

Yeah - but yours was clearer

Mine was exceedingly minimal

In reply to Carless:

Ahh, a true alpinist in every sense of the word!

In reply to Dom Whillans:

He never said it Trad or Sport, yes in trad it could weave all over the place, but if he is multi-pitch sport then he would only need one rope, as it more than likely runs in a straight line.

In reply to Dom Whillans:

All true,
a)but why bother? It just becomes so much easier with one rope.
b) I meant use a gri-gri so you can pee, eat - and lets face it you can't be 100% with it for 18 hours.
c) I can't imagine doing a lot of simul' climbing with two ropes gathering around the feet of the second and them not knowing which rope the ropeman was on. A ropeman or two on each rope would be hell.

These days I tend to climb (on long routes) on a single half rope and carry its pair. I know others might not be happy with this. (I'm 9.5stone)

In reply to Gus Mayor:

yes but you had the logical reply of feeding the rope through the anchor then tying knot - about a metre? vs the others who suggested tying knot THEN feeding rope through anchor... 60m?