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Adidas 5:10 Anasazi's not happy

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Uuuuh my new 5:10 pinks feel terrible, they were tight and painful but baggy.

I have the pink lace ups, I've had three pairs in the past size 43, fitted like a glove. I tried the new Adidas shoe and couldn't get anything on smaller than 44 and 2/3's.

Now the top of the toebox is full of air and they're still painful, feel quite shit actually.

Rubber C4 is still great, I will have to wear socks, but it's OK because I am on really easy stuff after my hip replacement.

I have fallen out of love with 5:10 after more than 20 years of luv and cuddling.

Tenaya are my next port of call and it's great because they are made in Spain.

Cheers

In reply to Dago theruinmargalef:

I think Unparallel are the new 5.10, you could look at their equivalent shooes

 chris_r 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Dago theruinmargalef:

I feel your pain. I've defected to Unparallel. Their lace-ups are great.

 Dave Todd 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Dago theruinmargalef:

Bought my first pair of new rock shoes in about 10 years last weekend - having spent 25 years in 5.10s (most recently Anasazi velcro and Galileo velcro).  Went for Unparallel Rise VCS and am very happy with them (3 sessions in) - fit is great, rubber feels ace, slightly odd 'non-rounded' big toe shape (but that's not a problem)

I tried some Adidas 5.10 Anasazi while in the shop (just to see what the fuss was about).  Blimey, what an odd shoe.  Almost impossible to get my foot through the opening, and once it was in there was literally a gap of around 1cm between the base of my heel and the inside of the shoe.  It was almost like no-one had checked that these shoes actually fit real feet ('well, they look just like climbing shoes')

 Pantone 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Dave Todd:

What size (in relation to your street shoe size) did you go for? deciding on size myself

Like you, last bought Anasazi's well before Adidas takeover

 Dave Todd 13 Oct 2021
In reply to Pantone:

> What size (in relation to your street shoe size) did you go for? deciding on size myself

I'm a size 7 in street shoes (yup, small feet) and wear size 6 Anasazi (pre Adidas).  I've gone for size 5.5 Unparallel Rise VCS which seemed about the best match.  3 sessions later (2 bouldering, 1 routes) and I think that's the correct choice.  Tight but not crippling.  It's always weird putting on new rock shoes and comparing them to a pair that are a decade old...

 mark s 14 Oct 2021
In reply to Dago theruinmargalef:

I got a new pair of pinks recently as they were cheap. Used to be a 10 but now 11.they fit great and performance feels fine. I'm not climbing top end stuff so the rubber will be fine on grit..

Got some unparallel also but they have gone very soft now after a year of use 


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