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Advice on 80m rope for annual EU sport trip

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 gavjwp 23 Jun 2018

Begun the quest looking for a rope for sport crags in EU. Will only be going annually, should i get a 10mm for durability and working routes as well as onsight?

Operating in mid to high grade 6 french sport. I dont think weight of a rope will affect my climbing that much. 

 

Ive always bought mammut ropes. Could be swayed though.

 

Thoughts/ advice / reccommendations??

 HeMa 23 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

Get a cheap one, as you prolly will not use it at home. And when it’s getting worn,  chop off both ends and you still have a workable rope for home. 

 

I’ve used Bergfreunde stamped ones, as they are cheap. Both as my long euro sport rope as well as a local work horse. 

 Wayne S 23 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

Hi,

I would question just using it annually, in theory you would be retiring (the rope that is!) after about 8 trips.  On that basis I might consider a more fragile skinny rope (serenity/joker) and reduce your baggage weight.  Ideally get something that would get some use back at home.  A skinny single can always be paired with a half rope for Trad or multi- pitch sport requiring abseiling.  Are you sure you need 80m, or are you just covering all bases?  I have certainly managed with as short as 60 in many areas.  Maybe go for a cheap as chips 9.7-10.  A better quality treated rope would last you longer, but  if it is for once- twice a year I would save some money and get a “disposable” rope.  I have in the past climbed sports routes with half ropes as twins, because that’s what I had, and a half rope each was the most versatile for an alps trip.   

Never going to go wrong with Mammut however imho.

Hopefully that was in some way helpfull.

OP gavjwp 23 Jun 2018
In reply to Wayne S:

I'll be mainly onsighting routes. I dont want to redpoint / work routes. 

Additional questions are:

Do i bother with a dry treated rope or can i get away with a non treated rope?

Anyone recommend low to mid 9mm ropes?

 

 Jim Lancs 23 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

Decathlon have a 10mm x 80m rope on offer at the moment for £79.99

 Ian Patterson 23 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

> I'll be mainly onsighting routes. I dont want to redpoint / work routes. 

On the basis of your requirements (not much use, not much working routes) I would buy thin and cheap.  

10mm ropes are definitely on the thick end and there doesn't seem any need for your requirements.  Decathlon do cheap 9.5mm and 8.9mm ropes, 89.99 and 109.99 respectively for 80m, which look pretty good for what you want.  I haven't used them and reviews are a little mixed regarding longevity / wear but doesn't sound like that should be much of an issue for you.

For info I've used Mammut Infinity (9.5mm) for my sport climbing rope over the last few years and think they're excellent.  Relatively light, handle pretty well and ime wear very well - used for lots redpointing and working routes over number of years.  But at around £160 for 80m seems like a lot extra to pay for stuff you don't seem to need (at the moment anyway?).

 

 Stu McInnes 23 Jun 2018
In reply to gavjwp:

I’ve got a brand new still in packaging Dmm Crux 9.1mm 80m rope for sale if you were keen? £140 posted.

Stu.

 AlanLittle 23 Jun 2018
In reply to Ian Patterson:

My last couple of ropes have been Mammut Infinities too, am very happy with them.

But on Kalymnos last autumn the Decathlon 8.9 was very much the corde du jour. I guess the combination of cheapness and relative lightness for flight baggage allowances is appealing. I took a fall on one; it didn't break neither did I notice myself going particularly much further than I would expect to on (what I would regard as) a normal single rope.

 Ian Patterson 23 Jun 2018
In reply to AlanLittle:

> But on Kalymnos last autumn the Decathlon 8.9 was very much the corde du jour. I guess the combination of cheapness and relative lightness for flight baggage allowances is appealing. I took a fall on one; it didn't break neither did I notice myself going particularly much further than I would expect to on (what I would regard as) a normal single rope.

Pretty much definition of what the op is asking for from a rope I think

 

 Emilio Bachini 24 Jun 2018
In reply to Jim Lancs:

They also sell a 100 meter (8.9mm) in France and Spain but no longer the U.K. Pretty easy to see why many didn’t sell over here. 


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