UKC

Any recommendations for a rugged hardshell for Alpine and Scottish winter? Pit zips are a must so I am considering:

• ME Lhotse
• ME Tupilak
• Jottnar Odin (has anyone tested this material?) 
• Arcteryx Alpha AR

Obviously the lighter the better but I am quite harsh on gear so has to be durable also. Any other obvious choices to consider?

Cheers,

James 

In reply to JStearn:

ME Kongur. Very robust over not so light, great hood especially with a helmet, proper storm flap over main zip. 

In reply to JStearn:

 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/waterproofs/bombproof_winter_mount...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/waterproofs/jottnar_odin_shell+van...

and a second also positive opinion on the material: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/waterproofs/bombproof_winter_mount...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/clothing/waterproofs/bombproof_winter_mount...

In reply to TobyA:

Thanks, a very useful roundup. Just realised the Tupilak doesn't have pit zips, although the Lhotse looks similar besides this, and I was leaning towards it already. The price also seems reasonable compared to some of the other options, £500+ for a jacket that I will eventually destroy still seems quite exorbitant!

In reply to JStearn:

Cant sing the praises of my Crux hardshell enough... Great jacket; very simple but tough as old boots and perfectly designed.

Not the cheapest, but I got it half price from Needlesports one time (lucky, as I was always lusting after one in my favour colour... yellow!).

Otherwise, I've also had good experiences with Outdoor Research jackets, which are much lighter weight and duty.  More zips etc, but less of a true mountaineering jacket.

In reply to JStearn:

I've just bought a Rab Latok  GTX, which is very similar to the ME Lhotse in terms of features and material. Both pretty heavy duty. Got it for £260; there were a few places still getting rid of them around this price (last year's colours). I agree RRP on all these jackets is pretty hard to swallow!

The Tupilak has no pit zips, and only chest pockets, but is a great jacket if that's what you want. 

In reply to Dave the Rave:

Why a dislike for the Kongur? Intrigued.

In reply to Dave the Rave:

I don't think it's dislike - it's not made any more (though the specialist MRT version may still be available made to order, I'm not sure)

In reply to JStearn:

Probably easier to buy a heavy shell for Scottish winter and then something for emergencies you can chuck in your pack for the Alps? Maybe double up with your running waterproof. 

As lovely as a kongur or alpha SV would be, I'm not convinced I'd be keen to carry one around rammed into a tiny 20l alpine pack all day! 

In reply to JStearn:

Arcteryx Alpha AR is a nice jacket. I like mine, but next time I will buy a lighter one, maybe the FL even though it hasn't pit zips and only one chest pocket.

In reply to Dave the Rave: Lot of money for a heavy jacket that is a bit long for wearing a harness.  

In reply to Dave the Rave:

No dislike from me, although it does look a bit on the bomber heavier side. I am actually looking to also get a lighter jacket for hiking and cycle touring, I have been using an ME Shivling for absolutely everything which does the job well but is heavy for backpacking and I think it degraded quite quickly through overuse, so it makes sense to me to save the heavy shell for Sunday best.

In reply to JStearn:

ME Changabang? Everything you want, top of the range, but £450+.
I’ve got one (bought last year for off-piste skiing in shite weather, but unused as yet).

In reply to JStearn:

I’ve got a ME Lhotse in bright red. Love it. Great pockets, pit zips, brilliant hood. Got it on sale from Tiso last year. Just keep your eyes peeled, it took me about a month of looking and I ended up paying about £230 for it. 
 

Also worth a look at the Mountain Equipment Rupal. 1 less pocket than the lhotse but otherwise I rate both. 

In reply to JStearn:

Think whether you get a Lhotse or Tupilak depends on just how hard-wearing you want the jacket. The Lhotse has reinforced sections whereas the Tupilak is reinforced throughout. I use a Lhotse jacket but I mainly ice climb these days. I'd probably be looking at the Tupilak if I was regularly climbing in Scotland and ruggedness / hard-wearing was the absolute priority. ME fits we really well as a tall person, whereas Arcteryx seems to always have... er... a little too looser fit in the midriff for my liking.

In reply to JStearn:

Another +1 for ME Rupal. Had the Tupilak before it and honestly not that much difference other than the hood being better on the Tupilak but not so much as to make me pay the difference. 

I've used the Rupal pretty extensively across two winter seasons and a lot of wet weather days guiding and like all waterproofs it has it's limits but for the price it's been pretty good really. My current version is on its last legs but I'd buy another one. 

In reply to wbo2:

Fair enough.

In reply to JStearn:

I like the Tupilak (no pit zips though) but it still started delaminating after a season’s use. Still perfectly usable. I suspect all jackets do that due to the multilayer construction.