UKC

Nuclei Hoody - Lightweight, compact, trim-fitting belay jacket with a high warmth-to-weight ratio - new for Fall 13. 

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5964

In reply to UKC Gear:

I don't think that a jacket should be described as a belay jacket if it has an "under helmet hood". It might be a great jacket in all other ways, but if you can't pull the hood over your lid (or even worse - it encourages you to take your helmet off whilst on a route) it's simply not a 'proper' belay jacket.

In reply to TobyA:

+1

I kind of agree, but what about for sport or trad summer routes where people often don't wear helmets and want a warm jacket for putting on at belays?

It's a bit too thin to be a winter belay jacket anyway.

In reply to JayPee630:

A double zip would add to its functionality as a belay jacket.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Your review should read:


Stuart 

In reply to TobyA:

Clearly not a belay jacket in any normal sense of the term (althought Arceryx call it one)

They do look nice though - lighter, warmer and trimmer cut than the already excellent Atom LT. Sadly my Atom LT is nowhere near worn out yet.

In reply to TobyA:


+1 for sure.

Badly written product descriptions make me question the process behind the product, which lead mt to question the product, warranted or not.

In reply to TobyA:

Badly written as a helmet does actually fit under the hood:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/arcteryx-nuclei-hoody-review-by-dave-burdick/

In reply to TobyA:

The hood is spacious Toby and a helmet fits under it. I've been very impressed with the coreloft insulation, very warm, especially considering the light weight of this jacket. I've used it both for summer and winter climbing.

In reply to Denni:



The interesting observation in your quoted article is the suggestion that 2 of these would be warmer, lighter and more flexible than 1 typical belay jacket (ME Fitzroy etc)

I've been having thoughts along the same lines and will be experimenting this winter layering a Primaloft Alpha vest/gilet with a Primaloft Alpha hoodie, giving up to 80 (Alpha) fill in the sleeves and up to 160 in the body vs 100 (Primaloft One) fill in my standard jacket. The breathability will blur the operating boundaries and extend functionality, yet would allow me to pack both hard and softshell and dump the big jacket for lower weight, more warmth, greater flexibility and weather resistance.

On the other hand, there's nothing like a cosy big jacket for that summit cuppa when you top out, is there?

In reply to Michael Ryan - UKC and UKH:

Do you find it gives you, in want of a better word, confidence when you put it on?

I know if I stick my LT hoody on I know I'll feel warm and wrapped up against the elements but having seen the Nuclei in the flesh along with something from Marmot I think it was, the sheer lightweigh-ness of them instantly made me think they weren't up to the task.

I suppose I'm just a stick in the mud and if I'm wearing something heavier and less packable, I think i'll be better protected! I reckon a load of manufacturers will follow Arcteryx's lead now.

In reply to Denni:

Like you say Denni, light, warm and very packable. I've found myself wearing it more as a mid-layer in winter; fits perfect under my Kappa. It's not a full bore belay parka. Perfect for multi-pitch or cragging in cool conditions; just have a waterproof shell with you.

In reply to Michael Ryan - UKC and UKH:

Would you not be redders with that and a Kappa on, I'd melt!
Maybe worth a second look then for cooler days rather than taking my LT Hoody.
I find it hard to believe something that packs that small and is so light can be so warm.

In reply to Michael Ryan - UKC and UKH:

Sounds good, odd that they choose to call it an under-helmet hood in their own advertising bumf then?

In reply to Denni:


Yes. Red hot. I actually wore my Nuclei for approach/climbing in then my Kappa for the belay and walking down last winter.

I've done both with it Toby; fits under a helmet and over it. It's a very spacious hood. I was initially suspicious about no adjustment cord for the hood, but I've found it to be a non - issue as it adds to the simplicity; as long as you have a main jacket with hood, or wear a close fitting skull cap - I have an OR one. The chin guard/wind flap is the bomb.