UKC

Hi

I am looking to get my first mountaineering boots and have currently settled on the Scarpa Manta tech gtx. My goals are summer alpine orientated for 4000m+ (13,000ft) with slopes up to 45-55 degrees, involving glacier walking, ridge walking, scrambling and also some winters in Scotland. 

Can anyone vouch for these boots or recommend any other options? (i've heard they are pretty warm and stiff which has both positives and negatives depending on the environment)

Thanks

I'm not really into a one boot does all but perhaps my needs vary more than yours. The boots you mention could be right for you as they will kick in nicely with or without a crampon. They are more the stiff end of the B2 range so will be a bit clumpy on the walk ins but great as you gain height and steep gradient. I have a pair and the build quality is excellent. Anything lower than warmer season 3000m, I'd be looking at a more flexible option.

From the b2-b3 range I personally use 3 different boots that take me through UK scrambling in cool weather to vertical ice.

I do have a pair of trail shoes for the walk in. Was mainly thinking about them being too warm for when I get up to the snow (but then again I could wear thinner socks) or too stiff if there is some mixed steep rocky/icy terrain.

The manta's will be absolutely fine on that sort of terrain. I'd say just get whatever B2 or B3 that fits your feet best - the fit is going to have the biggest effect on your comfort and confidence!

The trends on boots do seem to be going more towards thinner socks now as boot insulation has improved. I use a thin hiking sock in my winter boots and find they sweat less which means my feet don't freeze.

Thanks! When fitting, is there anything else I need to account for apart from thick socks and foot swell? Also how long does it take for a new pair of B2s to get broken in?

I wouldn't be super worried about foot swell unless that's something you've noticed you suffer from a lot. Take a thick pair of socks to try them on with too!

If you're going to be doing a lot of front pointing in crampons (and it sounds like you might be!) make sure there's enough space at the toe such that you're not going to bash your toes off the front of the boot every time you kick - finding something solid and giving it a few good kicks to see if you're hitting the front is ideal ... but the shop might be a bit upset ...

Other than that, normal boot fitting rules apply!

Break in time will obviously vary with each boot, but a couple of days out on the hill is usually enough. Modern boots seem to require less breaking in than traditional ones, but this is a point of endless debate!

Alps this summer - everyone seemed to be wearing versions of the scarpa ribelle. The ribelle boots are 180g lighter per boot than the manta, they will undoubtedly wear our more quickly and be slightly colder. I wouldn't hesitate to select the lighter boot despite any small disadvantages, you will cover more ground and enjoy it more with light kit ( same goes for all the rest of your mountain gear)