UKC

/ Belay Jacket Reccommendations

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aberSam - on 05 Jan 2018
Looking to buy myself a belay jacket.
Ideally not mega bucks, but if its worth the money not too bothered.

Ideally one that packs into its pocket or a little bag.

Has anyone had good experiences of cheap ones? Like decathlon?
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/mens-black-light-down-jacket-id_8358687.html

Cheers
tingle - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

If you're using it in the UK i would go for a synthetic one personally, slightly cheaper and more durable etc.
sleavesley on 05 Jan 2018
Al_Mac - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

Simond used to do a proper belay jacket - I've got one but only used it a few times before I was given a RAB Generator as a Christmas present one year which I now use. It's better, but is it £150 better? Warmth wise there's no difference, just in how small it packs down. Go for something synthetic and preferably with a reasonably tough outer - odds are you will end up climbing in it at some point if it's a really foul day. Also, size up, and get a roll top stuffsac for it that you can clip to your harness. None of the pockets you can fold them into are really tough enough to withstand crampons etc.

What size are you?
aberSam - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to Cloverleaf:

Medium or Large.

I have waterproofs etc, just the actual small compactable belay i'm after.
Will definitely end up climbing in it at some point.

Not sure I will use it enough to justify the £150 + range. Hence looking at the decathlon one. But if its utter tripe then not worth it.
jethro kiernan - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

Hi sam
I don't think that the down jacket would be a suitable jacket for a belay, I have used a decathlon belay jacket before which was very good value for money just a touch bulky, I did replace it with a ME Fitzroy which I got cheap, the only bugbear I have with the Fitzroy is it doesn't have glove stash pocket inside
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/alpinism-warm-mens-jacket-id_8271763.html

A belay jacket should be able to handle some pretty shit weather including damp sleet which a most down jackets arn't designed for. A lighter option is something like a Patagonia Nano (not really a belay jkt) as part of a layering system, it depends really on what else you are wearing what/where your planning on doing/going.


I still have the Decathlon jacket in large and if your interested I could do with clearing some space.

JWTM - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

I've just stuck on on sale: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=676876 if interested. Only selling as I've two belay jackets which seems a bit overkill
2
JoeFoster59 - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

The Alpkit Apogee is great for £160 very similar to the fitzroy same amount of primaloft but maybe a little lighter. Andy kirkpatrick recommends the montane spitfire and with a bit of digging you can find them for around £160.
maxsmith - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

The decathlon jacket is flipping awesome...but it's definitely not waterproof so requires a hardshell over the top in damp conditions. It packs down really small into a provided bag, which I leave attached to the hanging loop at all times. Whether it's thick and warm enough for your needs depends on the conditions you are planning to climbing.
olddirtydoggy - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

There are a few places dumping last years ME Fitzroys cheaper. I noticed the new retail price will be £250 which is obscene but I doubt too many will be selling at full whack. If you fo for the ME jacket then I'd buy sooner rather than later. Great jacket, I've had 3 years of use.
olddirtydoggy - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to JoeFoster59:

The Spitfire is very heavy duty, it's like the ME Citadel. I got one last year from Gaynors for £1`00 but it only comes out on the really nasty days. Amazing jacket though.
RedTar - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

Possibly contradictory, I'm tempted *not* to size up with my belay jacket. Whilst a smaller one will be more snug over other clothing, it's far more likely I might also wear it around town if it's a good fit generally. I figure my days needing it for belaying will be greatly dwarfed by town days.

I've been considering the Black Diamond Access Hoody for this purpose - though there's very little reviews of it. It's got the same insulation as the Rab Xenon X, but with greater breathability. Anyone got it?
swmackey - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

The berghaus extreme 7000 is on sports pursuit for 90quid ish
TobyA on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to tingle:

Synthetic insulation is not more durable than down! Look after down and it works for decades. Synthetic insulation doesn't
2
tingle - on 05 Jan 2018
In reply to TobyA:

Belay jackets take a bit of abuse generally though, in camp on the stove or getting wet constantly. Burn a hole in a lofty thin shelled down jacket and you have a bit of a problem. Get it wet too many times it never comes back to its original condition. But as you say look after it and it will be fine (I’m probably too careless)
TobyA on 06 Jan 2018
In reply to tingle:
I've got holes in jackets from campfires in the past, but not from stoves. And my down jackets get wet incredibly rarely. My TNF Nuptse, bought in 1995, still works well, I don't wear it much these days because it doesn't have a hood, but it was used a huge amount for its first 10 years. My first synthetic belay jacket I bought in 2002, a DAS. Still good but the loft went down noticeably over its first 10 years.
Post edited at 09:13
1
Matt Schwarz on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

I have one of the older SIMOND jackets. It's XXL as simond stuff is short in the arms. I'm large in everything else. I used it in the Rockies the older day in -15c other day it's great. But as said earlier it's not very weatherproof.
Mark Haward - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to aberSam:

Is this for UK summer use, UK winter, alps summer, alps winter?
For UK summer use I would recommend a light synthetic ( primaloft gold perhaps ) jacket. Preferably one that stows in its own pocket and can be attached to a harness.
Personally I use the same jacket as a possible layer in alpine summer and UK winter but then have a beefier synthetic jacket ( Fitzroy is excellent, Rab Alpine Generator - if they still make them ).
If I could justify the money I would also buy a light down jacket for the alps, such as the Rab Microlight Alpine or a beefier jacket for alpine winter use.
So decide on your priority / intended use and what features you require. For example does it stow in own pocket, can it attach to harness, are the pockets where you want them and of the right size, does it pack small and easily, does it fit over all the layers you might be wearing, will it cope with the weather you will be in, is it light but still insulating enough, if hooded does the hood fit comfortably over your head or helmet if required. Try lots on to see what fits you personally. Remember, you will be wearing the jacket on top of other layers and possibly a harness so try them on with the other layers on underneath and think about harness access if required.
The decathlon down jacket looks awesome value but may not have the features you are looking for.
LP - on 07 Jan 2018
In reply to JoeFoster59:

+1 for the Apogee- I got one for Christmas and have been very happy with it this last week- perhaps not quite as warm as my mate's Fitzroy but it is lighter and has some nice features.

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