/ Boreal Jokers

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krikoman 09 Feb 2020

Does anyone know the difference between the Jokers and the Joker Plus'

I used to wear Mad Rock Frenzy, but they don't make then any more, does anyone know how these compare to Jokers?

Cheers.

Post edited at 21:11
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TobyA 09 Feb 2020
In reply to krikoman:

I might be totally wrong on this, but do the plus have padding in the heel? My better half bought her first new pair of rock shoes in twenty years last autumn and I'm pretty sure they were Jokers, so that's why I think I might have read this.

I've never found Boreals fit my feet so no personal experience although I still have this pair of Mad Rock Frenzys https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/mad_rock_frenzy_lace-544 and occasionally wear them on easyish stuff. They fit my wide feet well, which suggests being wider than Boreals, but my pair is so old now I have no idea if newer models had the same fit. Sorry!

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jezmartin 10 Feb 2020
In reply to TobyA:

From chatting to the Boreal rep recently I understand the plus to be the stiffer version of the shoe. 

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krikoman 10 Feb 2020
In reply to thread:

Thanks for the replies, I should have probably said Mad Rock Frenzy Velcro, they have a heel wedge, and Toby you are right quite wide fitting.

I'm currently using boots from as long ago as 2006, but they need re-soling, they've been done at least once before and I've always found then OK for my use.

The shoes are massively comfortable and I've been told they're shit for climbing, but what the hey I like them and they suit what I climb.

I was looking for something that might be their equal, to use while they're away, there seems to be a long turn-around on re-soling at present.

Thanks for everyone's input, I'll be comparing the two types shortly I hope.

Cheers, Mark

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David Myatt 14 Feb 2020
In reply to krikoman:

Mark,

Another one for you to try is La Sportiva Tarantula. I currently use Red Chilli Sausalitos, which as Toby says are really comfy. I’ve had mine resoled three times and they are still good but really stiff. This is fine for most of the type and grade of climbs I normally do but I want something more flexible for my trip in April. I have flat feet and comfort is my top priority. I couldn't get Jokers to fit properly but the Tarantulas do and don’t hurt. Taking them to Sella next week for their first go. Will give you my thoughts later if you want.

Cheers, David

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Hat Dude 14 Feb 2020
In reply to krikoman:

I've been using La Sportiva Finales for the last year; a nice comfy all day shoe for my widish feet.

Going by past threads on shoes where our paths have crossed, I'd guess that your aims with shoes are similar to mine so would suggest having a look at them.

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krikoman 17 Feb 2020
In reply to David Myatt:

> Will give you my thoughts later if you want

Yes please.

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krikoman 17 Feb 2020
In reply to Hat Dude:

Cheers

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krikoman 17 Feb 2020
In reply to krikoman:

Update:

I ended up with a pair of Joker Plus', on sale at GO for £64.

Unfortunately, I think they're called Jokers for a reason.

1st route, foot slipped off, 2nd attempt was OK.

3rd route foot slipped off, again 2nd attempt was OK

the rest of the 2 hour session was OK, but I was a bit weary to say the least, by the end of the night my toes were hurting, but decided this was either the seam in my socks digging in, or simply my feet stretching a new shoe.

Sunday start of a 5 hour session, foot slipped on 2nd route, the for the next 3 hours no problem, much more comfortable than Wednesday.

Break for tea and cake, third route after tea, foot slipped off quite a big and rough hold, couldn't work out how or why!! Went on to climb some hard route with marginal foot hold no bother.

Swapped into a pair of Red Chilli Impact Zones, that I've had for a long time, but couldn't remember why I didn't use them much, and ended up continuing with my Mad Rock's. The reason became apparent after a couple of routes, they seem very thin and the foot holds hurt my feet, sometimes!

So the Jokers are very stiff ( at least compared to Chillis and Mad Rocks, the Mad rocks are only slightly, if at all stiffer then the Chillis ), but I found I was losing "feeling" at the expense of too much feeling from the Chillis, not sure I like the randomness of the grip on them, if it was a constant thing you might be able to make allowances, but sometimes they were fine on marginal stuff and then shit on what should have been bomber stuff.

So in conclusion, the Jokers are now a challenge, "6b in slippy boots".

Not sure, if the Jokers need "warming up" a bit first, they've seemed to slip on early routes!

The Chillis are comfortable to wear but not for all day stuff, ( or maybe with a bit of cardboard inside ( or maybe I need to man up my feet )

My three pairs of Mad Rock Frenzy Velcros are off to get new soles fitted and I'll probably carry on with them.

Interestingly, or maybe not, I've noticed my left shoes seems to have more wear on it than my right shoes, I do know what that means, but I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks everyone that's contributed

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krikoman 13:18 Thu
In reply to krikoman:

Update, Update:

So last night they were fine, apart from slipping off some tiny 7a foot holds, which when I first tried it they were fine, second go slipped off twice!!

Later one tried a couple of route where there's a horrible step through onto some tiny holds expecting to slip, perfect.

I still don't know what to make of them, there's a definite lack of feedback, and the randomness is disconcerting.

I saw these https://www.decathlon.co.uk/climbing-shoe-rock-grey-id_8495164.html?iv_=__iv_p_1_g_84919629806_c_403932335474_w_pla-849014694940_n_u_d_c_v__l__t__r_x__y_15177021_f_online_o_2575404_z_GB_i_en_j_849014694940_s__e__h_1006494_ii__vi__&gclid=Cj0KCQiA-bjyBRCcARIsAFboWg1mfQsY1SiM0IKOOKyKmfAHSQ8NtxHyps--VXhFoRnYakVcAA19uBAaAljjEALw_wcB

anyone give them a go?

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Max factor 13:27 Thu
In reply to krikoman:

I had some and sold them on. Didn't like the lack of sensitivity, and like you found it harder to trust my feet in them.

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cragtyke 13:45 Thu
In reply to krikoman:

I've been using a pair of Joker velcros as my comfy easy (upto 5a) grit boots for the last couple of years. They use the same rubber, I remember that initially the sole seemed slippy and almost plasticy, but they soon improve. I've done about 6/700 routes in them and they still don't need resoling, but they have stretched about half a size. I use 5.10 pinks on harder stuff.

I've also got a pair of the decathlon edge, old model lace up, which I find good for limestone NB. These don't stretch at all, ignore their sizing advice!

.

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mrphilipoldham 14:12 Thu
In reply to cragtyke:

Done f6C and (seconded) E4 5c in my standard Jokers, never felt like the shoe was the limiting factor either! 

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