UKC

/ Climbers stealing from climbers

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Rich Mayfield - on 13 Apr 2018

Costa Blanca 

On Friday evening / night 25 bolts and 5 lower offs were stolen from Echo 1.5 lower in the Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley). I have been told by some local Spanish that some of their easier new lines on Vall de Guadar (Echo Valley) have also suffered stolen bolts.

Some of the easier routes were completely striped of their bolts and lower off's, whilst some of the harder routes had random bolts stolen. Leaving the routes extremely dangerous to lead, with a fall from anywhere with a missing bolt would most probably result in a ground fall.

I bolted these routes for beginners, kids and special needs. This demographic is the most vulnerable. 

This is the second time my routes have suffered like this and the third time that mass theft has occurred that I know of. 

There are "Bolt Funds" here all these scumbags had to do was ask! 

The crags affected will be reequipped with indelibly marked bolts shortly.

Please be careful out there, and report anything suspicious to the police by dialling 112 and ask for The Guardia Civil. 

ElBarto - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

That is really bad, it's fairly perplexing as to why random bolts on the harder routes would be taken rather than all of them?

I hope the marked bolts help prevent any future thefts and thanks for keeping the area bolted, it has been a few years since I've been there but certainly enjoyed the climbing.

1poundSOCKS - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to ElBarto:

> it's fairly perplexing as to why random bolts on the harder routes would be taken rather than all of them?

Steep, so maybe it's harder, like cleaning a steep route?

captain paranoia - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Is it theft or disagreement about bolting?

5
Rich Mayfield - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to captain paranoia:

This area has been bolted for well over 10 years and is the most popular crag in the whole valley with both visiting and local climbers. So seems very unlikely someone has suddenly taken offense to sport routes in a sport area.

Mark Eddy - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Saddened to hear about this. I've climbed loads in Echo valley (and met you at Echo 1.5 on a few occasions).

Echo 1.5 is such a cool crag and always a hit with novices to rock.

I have about 20 Fixe bolts & hangers (all brand new!) that i'd happily drop off with you next time i'm over in Costa Blanca. If you want them let me know.

 

Cheers

Mark 

 

Mick Ward - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Hi Rich,

Am gutted. Echo 1.5 is such a fun place, which must have given so much pleasure to so many people. Is this personal - having a go at you?  Or Nicking Bolts R Us??  Either way, bizarre.

In addition to Mark's kind offer, is it worth flagging up the appropriate way of donating to the relevant Bolt Fund? As I know to my cost (all my pocket money goes on it, I've had to cut down on the jam tarts!) bolting costs.

On a completely different note, was watching The Walk of Life video (shudder!) and loved your cheeky throwing the end of the rope away, at the very end and jumping away from the waves. Jammy bugger!

Mick

captain paranoia - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

> So seems very unlikely someone has suddenly taken offense to sport routes in a sport area.

Okay. Just trying to figure out why someone would steal bolts; all seems rather desperate.

1
Rich Mayfield - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Mark Eddy:

Thanks Mark your offer is much appreciated. I've already started reequipping should have it mostly sorted by the start of next week.

 

Rich Mayfield - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

We think it's "Nicking Bolts R Us" think we've come up this a solution now, we shall see what happens next. Hand bags at dawn for the robbers!!! 

Good point about the bolt fund (missed a trick there) The Orange House web site has a link or the tin on the bar if anyone fancies a beer.

Wasn't quite so jammy on the Walk of Life, I got knocked off my feet by a big wave and almost pulled James off the rock.  

Paul Hy - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Sorry to hear what the scumbags have done to a great little crag. its very often our 1st port of call off the plane, to get our eye in so to speak.  are they just take the hangars or the bolts aswell?   just thinking though why you dont you use glue ins then they cant be nicked?  will be visiting your bolt fund site and dropping  couple quid in to help out a bit.

DenzelLN - on 13 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

I had a great day at Olta a few weeks ago, id be interested to know why they took the bolts?

Emptied all my change into the bolt fund tin, save taking a pocketful of shrapnel home.

Is Maxim still with you Rich? he was the German lad, living in his car parked up at the orange house, didn't get any contact details from him. Wouldn't mind keeping in touch, he said he was going to drive to the UK to climb grit!

Sam Mayfield - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to captain paranoia:

What makes you say that, do you know someone who has said something? And taking something that is not yours is still theft, no matter the motive!!

Sam Orange House 

3
Sam Mayfield - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Bolt Fund

 

Please use boltfund as the reference.

sam@theorangehouse.co.uk for paypal, use friends to save fees.

Natwest
Account Number 53703340
Sort Code 60 16 19

Thanks guys that have asked for the details.

David Cohen - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

That's a disgrace but I doubt it is new (I mean climbers being thieves) there has as far as I can recall always been a fair amount of petty larceny amongst climbers (as in wider society)

2
captain paranoia - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Sam, I know nothing about the area. I have no problem with bolting. But I know some people (generically-speaking) do, and bolts have been cut or removed elsewhere.

I agree it's theft, and it's a shitty thing to do; I just can't  understand the motivation of whoever has done it. I don't like the idea of climbing on secondhand bolts...

I think you may have read something into my posts that wasn't intended; there was no implied criticism of the bolting or disbelief in the theft. I'm just trying to understand why someone would do this.

1
Sam Mayfield - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to captain paranoia:

Sorry yes I did come across badly! I am so sorry for Rich as he gets very few days off and he has to spend it redoing this crag. He must also feel bad about why, who has done it! 

I just hope its not old wounds from a certain set of climbers out there! If it is well....

Sam 

Presley Whippet on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Would resin bolts be any less nick able? Or is it relatively easy to crack the resin using a torque bar. 

HeMa on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> Would resin bolts be any less nick able? Or is it relatively easy to crack the resin using a torque bar. 

They would, and torquing them out is quite hard, as part of the loop is supposed to be in the rock. They are more spendy and time consuming to install. Not to mention, that they can’t be used at all until fully cured. Oh, and more tricky to install on overhangs & roofs. 

captain paranoia - on 14 Apr 2018
In reply to Sam Mayfield:

No worries, and no offence taken, Sam. My words were easily misinterpreted.

Rich Mayfield - on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

With the exception of the 6a+ and far right hand 3 all the routes are back. Ran out of bolts and lower offs they will have to wait until next season now.

 

Christheclimber on 15 Apr 2018
In reply to Rich Mayfield:

Good job Rich, well done for the very prompt response. 


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