UKC

Geeky question, but then who doesn't like a geeky gear question?

I've had a Petzl Dual Connect Adjust lanyard for a couple of years. I bought it for an alpine rock trip (bolted anchors and multiple abseil descents) for which it was perfect. I've used it a bit in the UK for sport climbing but generally find the bulk a bit of annoyance, and if I need it favour a simple lighter no adjustable Simond lanyard I also have.

When I first used the Petzl I think I had Edelrid Pure Sliders on it because I have a bunch of them. I also have an HMS slider for my belay device. My old mate, who has definitely seen and used the slider krabs before, decided that time they looked really dodgy and said I should get "normal" screwgates. I guess that's what being 3000 mtrs up an alp does to you. But fair enough. Last year for the first time in ages bought myself some new screwgates.

Amongst some more traditional light screwgates, I did find on a very good sale a DMM Shadow Locksafe and have been using that on the Adjust lanyard, but yesterday decided it wasn't the best choice. We did the Chee Tor Girdle (VS 5a) and a number of belays were just clipping in to an insitu thread belay (for the climbs that come up to the girdle line) and then back that up if you should wish. I stopped I think where the description says to at the end of the third pitch, where there is an insitu belay on a big wire strop closed by a chunky maillon, but this is in the middle of some of the techiest climbing on the route, and hanging on with one hand and not much for the feet trying to get my Locksafe krab off my harness loop and clip it into the belay proved to be slightly taxing (it needs a push up and twist motion to undo the gate which can be tricky one handed it seems!).

So, I'm going to treat myself to a new locker for the adjust. What are your recommendation? Another auto locker, but just not quite as complicated a movement as the Locksafe? Or just a standard screwgate? And what krab is the perfect fit in alloy adjust buckle thing on the lanyard?

Could try Petzl smd twistlock - eay action

EDELRID pure slider it what i use on my various lanyards, slim, narrow nose, light, easy to operate....

https://edelrid.com/eu-en/sport/carabiners-and-quickdraws/pure-slider?varia...

Fully expect a tirade of dislike, but last year moved to the Grivel plume for winter and summer. Takes a little bit of getting used to, but now as quick and easy as a snapgate and 'auto-locking' plus has a round body so is less grabby to belay on...

https://grivel.com/products/plume-hms?_gl=1*1undhkr*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&g...

I use a DMM Shadow screwgate. It's just big enough that the rubber stopper (that comes with connect adjust) stays in place and can open the gate with the metal bit of connect adjust not getting in the way but still small and light. Oh and for my OCD I have a blue krab too matching blue lanyard 

I absolutely don't want any "fancy" gates (like twist lock, triple action or whatever) and have screwgate so it can be quickly and easily one handed clipped in a hurry, using either hand. 

Petzl SMD Twistlock works well and recommended by Petzl. 

I might try one of these. I take it the twistlock mech is easy to use one handed? 

As I said I have used Pure sliders but after my mate's comments thought I'd try something more traditional looking. 

yep but you asked what our favswere, and i disagree with your mate !  As i use a kong slyde quite a bit i like it can rotate through the eye, a screwgate, even tiny ones, usually can't

Yep, easy to use one handed. Its a 2 stage action as opposed to the 3 stage action but won't have a rope running through it so unlikely to twist itself open.

DMM Shadow twistlock (red gate) also looks similar shape.

I use a double action auto locker, which I find very easy to use, much easier than a triple action to use with one hand. I doubt it matters much which you use - I've used Petzl Smd Twistlock and another I can't quite remember at the moment. Both worked very well.

Obviously personal preference as to whether you feel safe with a double action auto locker. I do. I think it's probably safer than a normal screwgate because I can't forget to do it up. A triple action would obviously be safer when clipped, but I find opening with one hand much too annoying to use one, I want to be able to clip in quickly and easily, even when pumped, which I suppose is also a bit of a safety feature in favour of the double action instead of triple.

I'm in two minds about this, based on the Shadow Kwicklock I use on mine. On the one hand, as previously mentioned, it obviates my somewhat worrying tendency to forget to close screwgates - especially on long routes when trying to hustle - but on the other, one-handed in gloves and with numb fingers it's an extra awkwardness that incrementally builds frustration at each anchor (which I can only imagine would be even worse with the Locksafe gate).

Obviously this drawback only really applies in winter, and objectively the argument that the extra safety is preferable to the reduced convenience probably prevails. And one could swap krabs depending on the season, but who has that kind of time