Rockfax Description
170m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good route for a busy weekend but fun and fairly dry (certainly the hardest bits) in light rain. The long version starts up Doggone Groove but you can miss the first traverse pitch by starting up The Chopper.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb Doggone Groove to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 42m. Traverse the break to a tricky descent to easy ground. Belay above Match of the Day.
3) 4a, 35m. Traverse into the gully then out to reach a yew tree above Queer Street. The scenery is starting to get better.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the break past many belays and threads, with a hard move above Ceramic to a great hanging stance.
5) 4c, 35m. Keep going across the groove of Alfresco (tricky crossing the left wall), until you reach the tree/lower-off of Mortlock's Arete. Abseil off - 20m to the ground. © Rockfax
FA. C.Jackson, J.Atkinson, B.Starkey 1964.
Hard Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Extreme Girdle , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Hard Rock 2020 , Traverses of trady radness , Hard Rock 2020 , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , HS-HVS adventures , Peak Traverses
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MattRose22 | 15 Jul |
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βeta: Don't go to the abseil tree, after the final corner, stop at a lower off and abseil off there, it only misses 1 move of climbing and you won't die. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Don't go to the abseil tree, after the final corner, stop at a lower off and abseil off there, it only misses 1 move of climbing and you won't die. |
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Misha | 7 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: The abseil tree is pretty much dead. Backed it up with a couple of wires 6.7.22 but it needs a couple of bolts really. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The abseil tree is pretty much dead. Backed it up with a couple of wires 6.7.22 but it needs a couple of bolts really. |
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bclifton | 13 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: There was a nesting bird on the route today. No idea what kind of bird. Seemed like a bird of prey as it flew into my face | ||
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βeta: There was a nesting bird on the route today. No idea what kind of bird. Seemed like a bird of prey as it flew into my face |
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Chambers81 | 14 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Night time traverse, pitch black, head torches, great fun. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Night time traverse, pitch black, head torches, great fun. |
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peakschris | 5 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: The ab tree with chains at the end of p5 looked puny so we backtracked and abbed from the last insitu thread mid p5 | βeta? | |
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βeta: The ab tree with chains at the end of p5 looked puny so we backtracked and abbed from the last insitu thread mid p5 |
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Annaproffitt | 12 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Maybe put some shoes at the bottom of the abseil for the walk back over! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Maybe put some shoes at the bottom of the abseil for the walk back over! |
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JamieSparkes | 2 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: The majority of belays have been replaced along the main girdle. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The majority of belays have been replaced along the main girdle. |
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Etta | 30 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: I removed a large wobbly block from half way up P1. It is now at the bottom of the route as a memento: there are more loose rocks on the route | βeta? | |
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βeta: I removed a large wobbly block from half way up P1. It is now at the bottom of the route as a memento: there are more loose rocks on the route |
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simoncov | 30 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Beware loose rock on P1, more is bound to come out. Obvious tree at top of P1 also looks dead, I used a small one back right instead. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Beware loose rock on P1, more is bound to come out. Obvious tree at top of P1 also looks dead, I used a small one back right instead. |
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climberclimber321 | 9 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Climbed the first 2 pitches then abbed off. Super overgrown and not fun. Probably should have carried on for the last couple of pitches but thought the first 2 pitches were was pretty rubbish. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Climbed the first 2 pitches then abbed off. Super overgrown and not fun. Probably should have carried on for the last couple of pitches but thought the first 2 pitches were was pretty rubbish. |
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The Grist | 18 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)