170m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good route for a busy weekend but fun and fairly dry (certainly the hardest bits) in light rain. The long version starts up Doggone Groove but you can miss the first traverse pitch by starting up The Chopper.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb Doggone Groove to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 42m. Traverse the break to a tricky descent to easy ground. Belay above Match of the Day.
3) 4a, 35m. Traverse into the gully then out to reach a yew tree above Queer Street. The scenery is starting to get better.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the break past many belays and threads, with a hard move above Ceramic to a great hanging stance.
5) 4c, 35m. Keep going across the groove of Alfresco (tricky crossing the left wall), until you reach the tree/lower-off of Mortlock's Arete. Abseil off - 20m to the ground. © Rockfax
FA. C.Jackson, J.Atkinson, B.Starkey 1964.
Hard Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Extreme Girdle , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Hard Rock 2020 , Traverses of trady radness , Hard Rock 2020 , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
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