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4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
170m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good route for a busy weekend but fun and fairly dry (certainly the hardest bits) in light rain. The long version starts up Doggone Groove but you can miss the first traverse pitch by starting up The Chopper.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb Doggone Groove to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 42m. Traverse the break to a tricky descent to easy ground. Belay above Match of the Day.
3) 4a, 35m. Traverse into the gully then out to reach a yew tree above Queer Street. The scenery is starting to get better.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the break past many belays and threads, with a hard move above Ceramic to a great hanging stance.
5) 4c, 35m. Keep going across the groove of Alfresco (tricky crossing the left wall), until you reach the tree/lower-off of Mortlock's Arete. Abseil off - 20m to the ground. © Rockfax

FA. C.Jackson, J.Atkinson, B.Starkey 1964.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Peak Rock/10/White Life, Low grade quality Cheedale Trad, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Extreme Girdle, Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth, Hard Rock 2020, Traverses of trady radness, Hard Rock, Jem's Time in the Peaks

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User Date Notes
Etta 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I removed a large wobbly block from half way up P1. It is now at the bottom of the route as a memento: there are more loose rocks on the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I removed a large wobbly block from half way up P1. It is now at the bottom of the route as a memento: there are more loose rocks on the route
simoncov 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Beware loose rock on P1, more is bound to come out. Obvious tree at top of P1 also looks dead, I used a small one back right instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware loose rock on P1, more is bound to come out. Obvious tree at top of P1 also looks dead, I used a small one back right instead.
Beanmanclimb 9 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed the first 2 pitches then abbed off. Super overgrown and not fun. Probably should have carried on for the last couple of pitches but thought the first 2 pitches were was pretty rubbish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed the first 2 pitches then abbed off. Super overgrown and not fun. Probably should have carried on for the last couple of pitches but thought the first 2 pitches were was pretty rubbish.
The Grist 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Repeated
Dogged
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Route of Interest

Inverted V

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Stanage Popular)