UKC

4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
170m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good route for a busy weekend but fun and fairly dry (certainly the hardest bits) in light rain. The long version starts up Doggone Groove but you can miss the first traverse pitch by starting up The Chopper.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb Doggone Groove to a belay on the left.
2) 4b, 42m. Traverse the break to a tricky descent to easy ground. Belay above Match of the Day.
3) 4a, 35m. Traverse into the gully then out to reach a yew tree above Queer Street. The scenery is starting to get better.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the break past many belays and threads, with a hard move above Ceramic to a great hanging stance.
5) 4c, 35m. Keep going across the groove of Alfresco (tricky crossing the left wall), until you reach the tree/lower-off of Mortlock's Arete. Abseil off - 20m to the ground. © Rockfax

FA. C.Jackson, J.Atkinson, B.Starkey 1964.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Low grade quality Cheedale Trad , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Extreme Girdle , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Hard Rock 2020 , Traverses of trady radness , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , HS-HVS adventures , Peak Traverses

Feedback

User Date Notes
ulastopka 14 Apr Show βeta
βeta: SAFETY NOTE: be careful with the anchors that are present throughout the traverse (they are there as top anchors set for the routes). Mostly those are rings on ropes wrapped around the rock holes). We were not sure how new the ropes were; even though they looked new we backed them up in most instances. Also, we removed the rusty and broken piton from the anchor that looked fine at first, and in the guidebook, it was stated as a "good belay stance". It was not good. Please keep checking. Dont recommend climbing it following the rain. Finished it in 4 pitches. Overall a nice route but with not enjoyable P1 (mud, slippy, and lots of moss). Few places were wet and slippy. The last pitch was spicy. It was slippy/wet with one section not having good footholds.
Show beta
βeta: SAFETY NOTE: be careful with the anchors that are present throughout the traverse (they are there as top anchors set for the routes). Mostly those are rings on ropes wrapped around the rock holes). We were not sure how new the ropes were; even though they looked new we backed them up in most instances. Also, we removed the rusty and broken piton from the anchor that looked fine at first, and in the guidebook, it was stated as a "good belay stance". It was not good. Please keep checking. Dont recommend climbing it following the rain. Finished it in 4 pitches. Overall a nice route but with not enjoyable P1 (mud, slippy, and lots of moss). Few places were wet and slippy. The last pitch was spicy. It was slippy/wet with one section not having good footholds.
MattRose22 15 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Don't go to the abseil tree, after the final corner, stop at a lower off and abseil off there, it only misses 1 move of climbing and you won't die.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't go to the abseil tree, after the final corner, stop at a lower off and abseil off there, it only misses 1 move of climbing and you won't die.
Misha 7 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The abseil tree is pretty much dead. Backed it up with a couple of wires 6.7.22 but it needs a couple of bolts really.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The abseil tree is pretty much dead. Backed it up with a couple of wires 6.7.22 but it needs a couple of bolts really.
bclifton 13 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There was a nesting bird on the route today. No idea what kind of bird. Seemed like a bird of prey as it flew into my face
Show beta
βeta: There was a nesting bird on the route today. No idea what kind of bird. Seemed like a bird of prey as it flew into my face
Chambers81 14 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Night time traverse, pitch black, head torches, great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Night time traverse, pitch black, head torches, great fun.
peakschris 5 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The ab tree with chains at the end of p5 looked puny so we backtracked and abbed from the last insitu thread mid p5
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The ab tree with chains at the end of p5 looked puny so we backtracked and abbed from the last insitu thread mid p5
Annaproffitt 12 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe put some shoes at the bottom of the abseil for the walk back over!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maybe put some shoes at the bottom of the abseil for the walk back over!
JamieSparkes 2 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The majority of belays have been replaced along the main girdle.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The majority of belays have been replaced along the main girdle.
Etta 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I removed a large wobbly block from half way up P1. It is now at the bottom of the route as a memento: there are more loose rocks on the route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I removed a large wobbly block from half way up P1. It is now at the bottom of the route as a memento: there are more loose rocks on the route
simoncov 30 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Beware loose rock on P1, more is bound to come out. Obvious tree at top of P1 also looks dead, I used a small one back right instead.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware loose rock on P1, more is bound to come out. Obvious tree at top of P1 also looks dead, I used a small one back right instead.
climberclimber321 9 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed the first 2 pitches then abbed off. Super overgrown and not fun. Probably should have carried on for the last couple of pitches but thought the first 2 pitches were was pretty rubbish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed the first 2 pitches then abbed off. Super overgrown and not fun. Probably should have carried on for the last couple of pitches but thought the first 2 pitches were was pretty rubbish.
The Grist 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this in a rainy day in April. Last pitch proved the most difficult. I slipped with a bit of clay stuck to my boot but stayed on. Lots of bomber in situ threads of various ages. Great fun.

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Lower

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 69
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 68
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wall End Slab

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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