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Half/twin ropes for alpine use

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 AlanLittle 27 Jul 2020

What are people using these days for half/twin ropes in the 8mm range, primarily for alpine rock routes?

My Beal Ice Lines are getting a bit old and are only 50 metres: I want something new, shiny and 60 metres long.

I'll be mostly using them for alpine rock routes, usually as twins but occasionally as halves for the odd wiggly pitch.

I don't want to go much below 8mm because I want the option to occasionally use them as half ropes, and I would find the prospect falling on one strand of 7mm too scary. But because of weight and mostly twin rope use I don't really want to go up into the ~8.5mm range either.

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 Rick Graham 27 Jul 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

More of a bump but ffiw I go with 50s in half ropes unless the abseil or pitch  info recommends 60.

This includes all alpine rock and British rock.

I only use 60s in Scottish winter and ( alpine ice/mixed if I ever get back to doing any.)

To show my commitment to my beliefs and before this topic came up , I gave a brand new and unused pair of 60s away yesterday, deciding to use my 50s and buy some more when they get tired.

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 carr0t 27 Jul 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

The simond halfropes have traditionally served me quite well. They all meet the same UIAA standards anyway and cheaper ropes means I replace them more frequently. I usually use them till they're knackered, chop the ends and then use them as "cragging" halfropes at around 35m length. This extends the life of my good ropes a fair amount and removes all the coiling Pfaff of longer ropes at short venues.

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 Jamie Wakeham 27 Jul 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

I love my Apus 7.9mm.  Might be the compromise you're looking for?

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 John Kelly 27 Jul 2020
 Mark Haward 27 Jul 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Like Rick Graham I usually use 50 metre half ropes for alpine rock, ( and UK use ) or sometimes a triple rated and a half rope depending on the terrain. For early starts, late finishes or shadier routes I find I can't handle the thinner ropes as well.

   For ice / mixed I will usually use 60m ropes such as Ice Lines or even a triple and an Ice Line. 

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