What are people using these days for half/twin ropes in the 8mm range, primarily for alpine rock routes?
My Beal Ice Lines are getting a bit old and are only 50 metres: I want something new, shiny and 60 metres long.
I'll be mostly using them for alpine rock routes, usually as twins but occasionally as halves for the odd wiggly pitch.
I don't want to go much below 8mm because I want the option to occasionally use them as half ropes, and I would find the prospect falling on one strand of 7mm too scary. But because of weight and mostly twin rope use I don't really want to go up into the ~8.5mm range either.
More of a bump but ffiw I go with 50s in half ropes unless the abseil or pitch info recommends 60.
This includes all alpine rock and British rock.
I only use 60s in Scottish winter and ( alpine ice/mixed if I ever get back to doing any.)
To show my commitment to my beliefs and before this topic came up , I gave a brand new and unused pair of 60s away yesterday, deciding to use my 50s and buy some more when they get tired.
The simond halfropes have traditionally served me quite well. They all meet the same UIAA standards anyway and cheaper ropes means I replace them more frequently. I usually use them till they're knackered, chop the ends and then use them as "cragging" halfropes at around 35m length. This extends the life of my good ropes a fair amount and removes all the coiling Pfaff of longer ropes at short venues.
I love my Apus 7.9mm. Might be the compromise you're looking for?
Like Rick Graham I usually use 50 metre half ropes for alpine rock, ( and UK use ) or sometimes a triple rated and a half rope depending on the terrain. For early starts, late finishes or shadier routes I find I can't handle the thinner ropes as well.
For ice / mixed I will usually use 60m ropes such as Ice Lines or even a triple and an Ice Line.
William Chan has been climbing for 11 years based out of Hong Kong. Previously a volleyball player, he realised that the 'lifestyle' aspect of climbing suited him more and going on climbing trips and meeting different communities was much more...