With some crucial improvements to the old version, as well as a few attractive modern features, the newly updated G5 Evo should become a popular boot for winter climbers and mountaineers alike, says John McKenna.
I got a pair of the old version for a bargain last autumn. They're brilliant boots, a revelation compared to my old Nepal Extremes. This new version seems to do a good job of addressing the minor issues, mine are certainly not as warm as the Nepals and adjusting the fit requires taking the gaiter down. I haven't had wet feet issues despite some bog bashing. Would I stretch to full price for these though? I think it's a bit steep for me, it might depend on how many seasons I get from the current pair.
I think that is probably fair if you already have a pair of the old version, they are a pricey pair of boots. Good that your feet have stayed dry in the old version, it seemed quite widely reported around the issue of waterproofing on those ones.
More importantly, I hope they were able to brush off the stream of human feces that came down Point Five Gully (V 5) onto you recently (remember reading about that the other week there) .
> it seemed quite widely reported around the issue of waterproofing on those ones.
I can see why, the top part of the gaiter keeps snow out, but could easily let water in, I might have been lucky so far!
> More importantly, I hope they were able to brush off the stream of human feces...
They survived, dignity mostly intact.
> Nearly £200 more than the Scarpas. Ouch!
Which model is that? Reviewing the Dolomite Miage I worked out they over 200 quid less than the closest Sportiva boot (these ones I guess) and 100 less than Scarpa - I think I based that on the RRP rather than finding what discounts were available at that time though. https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/mountain_boots/dolomite_miage_peak_gtx-14119
Phantom Tech, generally on sale at approx £450. No idea of their RRP though......
(I looked into it this winter as my aging legs dragged around my pair of Salomon Super Mountain 9 Thermics......)
I managed to get the Miage for £215 through a trade deal at work a few months ago and honestly think they might be the best kept secret of the B3 world. Even at the normal sale prices, they come in quite a bit less than the competition and after wearing through a pair of Phantom Techs in around 3 months I wasn't sold on getting a new pair even with them on warranty.
The Miage feel light enough and the power strap feature is great, I've used it much the same as the Boa system to tighten things up around the heel when the ground gets steeper. Also very comfy to walk in and they fit my Darts really well so all round a win.
The jury is out on durability of the Dolemites but I have really liked them so far.
I'll throw in the Mammut Norwand Knit High GTX as another excellent boot that seems to get little attention in the UK. Seems to end up in sales frequently and I got a pair for around £250 on sale.
Feel to me like a beefier version of the Scarpa rebel ultra design - like a waterproof sock encased in a winter boot - except very roomy in the toe box, so ideal for wide feet.
They climb well, walk well and I haven't ever had wet or cold feet through 2 winters.