UKC Forums - NEW REVIEW: Morocco Rock: Crack Addicts

NEW REVIEW: Morocco Rock: Crack Addicts

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UKC Gear 16 Nov 2012

"This guide captures the essence of the Morocco experience and makes you want to get out there," says Malcolm Phelps.

"This magnificent area is a new router's paradise and a bastion of proper trad climbing. You won't find any bolts here and the ground up ethic is very strong. No clip sticks, few continental climbers and no endless and tedious cries of "take". The rock is magnificent solid quartzite. It takes good gear and provides endless great lines covering all styles of climbing."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=5041

JJL 17 Nov 2012

In reply to UKC Gear:

Crikey guys. Your listening skills aren't the best.

Not only is this the second advertorial for th enew guide in 5 weeks, but the last one prompted some pretty clear feedback about the way in which the current definitive guid e(2010) was treated (shabbily):

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=522853

Yet here we are again with "It builds on Ben's detailed preparatory work and follows, but considerably improves on, the helpful Steve Broadbent guide – Moroccan Anti-Atlas North – published in 2010"

Lukas V-L 17 Nov 2012

In reply to UKC Gear:

Either way its an excellent publication.

Every time I give it a flick through Im left properly psyched to get out there over christmas.

SCC 17 Nov 2012

In reply to JJL:

> (In reply to UKC Gear)
>
> Crikey guys. Your listening skills aren't the best.
>
> Not only is this the second advertorial for th enew guide in 5 weeks, but the last one prompted some pretty clear feedback about the way in which the current definitive guid e(2010) was treated (shabbily):
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=522853
>
> Yet here we are again with "It builds on Ben's detailed preparatory work and follows, but considerably improves on, the helpful Steve Broadbent guide – Moroccan Anti-Atlas North – published in 2010"

Agree - if the prev guide was published by Rockfax I sincerely doubt that it would be dismissed in a similar way!

Captain Gear 17 Nov 2012

In reply to SCC:

> (In reply to JJL)
> [...]
>
> Agree - if the prev guide was published by Rockfax I sincerely doubt that it would be dismissed in a similar way!

However, if the previous guide was published by Rockfax it would be decent guide...

Have you used the OAC guide? It's shockingly egotistical, focusing on the poxy new routes of the author and his cronies and all but dismissing routes climbed by the likes of Paul and Emma.

JJL 17 Nov 2012

In reply to Captain Gear:

You sound like Tom. Are you Tom?

No conflict of interest there then.

Captain Gear 17 Nov 2012

In reply to JJL:

> (In reply to Captain Gear)
>
> You sound like Tom. Are you Tom?

You guessed it...

>
> No conflict of interest there then.

I don't understand this comment? I don't know any of the guidebook authors from Adam. My comment is based on expirence from having used both the Cicerone guide and the Oxford Alpine guide on a trip to Tafraoute. The OAC guides is rubbish and biased. It promotes the author's and his friends' routes and hardly mentions the routes climbed by other climbers.

I'm looking forward to my next visit to Morocco, but you can guess which guide I'll be taking.