UKC

I have 2 sets of nuts, (for climbing.. before the comments come🙄😂) 1 to 11, Dmm and wild country. Also 1 to 4 Dmm hexes.and some Dmm offset nuts 7 to 11. What is the opinion on getting wild country 12 13 14 nuts... Any benefit. I have no Cams as yet so need a bit of advice.. Thanks and stay safe.👍

They are really good, dead easy to place, generally bomber, if you don't have cams these will substitute in some circumstances. Downside they are massive and quite heavy.

I unloaded the 13 and 14 Rocks in favour of similar sized DMM Torque nuts. Lighter and very versatile. I have all 4 sizes now. Come to think of it I rarely carry the 12 Rock now either.

I have a set of wires sizes 11-14.  I climb a lot.  I've had them for >8 years. I've never placed them*. They just faff up my climbing box.

I do place hexes and cams in this size range.

Generally I found that any placement that would work for them then a hex or cam would work better and for lots of placements was hard to seat the nut so that it didn't just lift out later - I guess it's just hard to get them tight enough to resist the greater torque from the wire due to their larger size.

My 2p. Depends on where you climb the most. I vary the rack ideally after looking at the route / knowledge of other routes on the crag / 50 odd years climbing and a bit of luck.

Looking at your logbook ,you mainly climb at swanage, the bigger rocks might work brill there , better ask a local.

( I have only seen the pictures , never been)

Am I missing anything ?

Not been to Swanage? Missing something? F*ck yes! Boulder Ruckle is brilliant. Don't bother with the Subluminal warm up - it's cack by comprison, head straight to the Ruckle and get involved. The abseil in is imposing as are the routes... nut key obligatory for the sandy beach exit.

I prefer them to large hex style nuts, as I never really got on with Hexes. They are ideal for mountain routes. The really big one I'd not bother with, but the 12 and 13 are good. Are they better than cams? Hell no, but they are a fraction of the price and you'll still use them once you have cams...

Yeah I prefer hexes to large nuts they have a wider range of placement options partially as they can cam unlike nuts. I also find they tend to sit better in more gnarly rock than large nuts. Also for their size they are lighter (dmm torques vs wallnuts). Also the long slings on the toques both saves on runners and can be used as a runner on other placements in emergencies.

Personally my preferred rack is: 1-11 DMM Walnuts, DMM Offsets from micros to the largest. From there nuts very on rock type and length of route. But for nut heavy situations I'd take rocks 4-9 too (perhaps skipping the odd size etc).

Hexes vary again on the route and rock but I'd always take a good selections of small to medium cams (large cams when needed). Most likely 1 or 2 hexes above size 11 wallnuts too (red and gold, blue is more route specific).

As a side point I think it would be work DMM trying to lighten up the larger offsets and producing them in 2-3 bigger sizes. They really are the best nuts as a second set out there IMO. 

Yeah I love swanage too. Medium to large nuts and hexes are certainly the order of the day on the ruckle. So many options pretty much any nuts would work.

Hiya Rick. I  haven't been to Swanage since I lived in E Sussex late 60s/early 70s but remember The Boulder Ruckle feeling pretty full-on, maybe felt even moreso as in those days, mid week, there was never, ever, anyone else there. Did a handful of routes in a few visits of routes up to what are now E1s. I'd probably have been back had it not been for the subsequent development of Pembroke.

The ruckle is still pretty quiet, there are loads of bolted quarries and easier somewhat tamer places near by like cattle troughs or subliminal to keep the crowds away. The best bits of swanage are too adventurous / loose to be popular. The abseil in and often lack of easy ways out can be pretty intimidating, but it does give incentive for climbing on past the hard bits! Its still solid as anything in some bits but loose as you really don't like it in others. But the pro is often pretty good IMO and its steep enough not to hit stuff.

One of my favourite things about the Ruckle is winding my mates up on the drive down about how imposing the abseil in is, because I know however thick I lay it on, the reality is worse than I make it out to be... I'll never forget taking a guy down who was training to be a stunt man and was well used to the fear, standing on the edge at the far western end with pupils the size of saucers telling me I had to be taking the piss... once he was over it was no problem, but the scramble down to the edge, setting up the wanky old stakes for the ab and then pitching off down the steep grass just does it every time... another time on a uni trip a load of freshers were banging on about what they were going to do, we got there and they then declared that they were going for a walk.

I went to Swanage several times even after going to Pembroke first. Absolutely loved the place (once I'd rationalised the high angle soil top outs!). The limestone is totally unlike Pembroke and the atmosphere likewise. It seemed to suit my style of climbing - lots of very steep jug pulling and good gear.

I went full circle on large nuts,  initially I couldn’t see the point over hex’s, now I have more cams, I don’t carry hex’s but find the large nuts really useful, especially on limestone. However rather than add three large nuts which overlap with your hex’s, maybe buy one #0,75 or #1 double axel cam?

I am from Swansea so my local climbs are Gower and Pembrokeshire. I have only put a few of my climbs in the log so far just haven't got round to filling it in properly. Thanks for the reply. 👍

I own a WC 12 and 14. On the few occssions I've actually placed them i find they're not as secure as smaller nuts or hexes. I can't think of a single route where I'd rather have them than similarly sized hexes.