UKC

Opposing nuts

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 bigbobbyking 04 Aug 2010
In lots of instructional manuals you see 'opposed nuts' recommended but does anyone actually do this? Surely it takes a lot of faff on lead to set this kind of thing up?

Here's an example, hope the link works: http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=av7OrkmO35oC&pg=PA115&lpg=PA115&...
 Monk 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

I have done it, but it really is only something I would do if nothing else will work. It's an extra trick rather than a core skill.
 jezb1 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking: Once or twice, there's usually something more simple not too far away.
 csw 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

It's less required now, because camming devices will work in a lot of situations that would otherwise have called for it. It's still useful to know though. Sooner or later a situation will arise where it will be the only option available to you.
 Jimbo C 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

I've done it a couple of times where there was a risk of the nut being pulled out sideways. It can turn a dogdy looking placement into a bomber one in some situations. Obviously it's preferable to be at a good stance when placing them or you'll liekly get more pumped than climbing to the next gear.
In reply to bigbobbyking: I've done it once in 45 years on an E1 at Brean Down. It was the only half decent way to protect it so the route probably warranted more than E1.

Al
 Will Smith 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking: I've used it many times winter climbing. Sometimes in an icy crack it's very difficult to seat a nut securely and it ends up lifting out. If you can place one in opposition to keep it pulled in the right direction it ends up being much more solid. Not sure I've ever placed opposing nuts rock climbing though.
Removed User 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

This technique makes Motorcade at Froggatt HVS.
 nniff 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

I typically do it placing wires in kimestone breaks, where the constriction is such that you can't get a wire behind it but you can get one each side. In a perfect world they join neatly together with a krab: in a less perfect world with a couple of quickdraws or a sling
 NickAL 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

Interestingly the next section in the linked book, on “The V-Angle”, implies that doing this would cause something to fail.
 EeeByGum 04 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking: I've done it...

Once or twice in 15 years of climbing. It is a useful trick to have in your armoury but not essential in most instances.
 Offwidth 09 Aug 2010
In reply to Removed User:

I beg to differ, the grades assume utilising the protection available. Opposing nuts is hardly a specialist technique.
Removed User 09 Aug 2010
In reply to Offwidth: Still HVS then?
 Mr Lopez 09 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:
Never on lead, but very often on belays, where it can mean the difference between a dodgy one and a bomber one.
 Reach>Talent 09 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:
I've used it a few times on belays and once on lead when the only bit of solid rock wasn't really in the right place
Wiley Coyote2 09 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking:

I'd rather not use them but sometimes it's the only game in town so it's a useful wrinkle to know. I've mainly used them in limestone breaks but occasionaly on grit (though that was probbly when I couldn't afford cams)
 Toerag 09 Aug 2010
In reply to bigbobbyking: I did it last week - had to use a couple of micros linked to one krab to make a good belay placement.
In reply to Mr Lopez: I had not thought of this technique in the context of belays as numerous (perhaps I would go so far as to say most) belays I have constructed have to some degree been nuts in opposition. Opposing nuts in a running belay situation is far less common I would think.

Al
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