In reply to neuromancer: At its most basic, a Purcell Prusik is an adjustable dynamic lanyard. If you need an 'adjustable dynamic lanyard' then obviously it's a good thing. However, I don't think they have any real place in UK climbing and the following explanation/analysis explains my current thinking.
The most basic question is, do you need a lanyard when climbing?
If you are (multipitch) abseiling then yes, one is absolutely essential. In all other normal UK climbing scenarios, no you probably don't NEED one, although that doesn't mean it might not be useful.
So, when abseiling, is a dynamic lanyard better than a static one? The answer is again yes and given that at least one alpinist has died after shock loading an abseil anchor when using a static lanyard, there is a decent argument in their favour. So that begs the question is a Purcell Prusik the best option for multipitch abseils? The answer is no, it isn't very good. If you want a dynamic lanyard for abseiling then the (non-adjustable) Beal Dynaconnexion would be better as that's what it was designed for.
So, let us consider other potential uses in the UK. We don't really have any multi-pitch sport or big wall climbing in the UK, so I think it would be fair to discount them. That leaves:
- single-pitch trad climbing
- multi-pitch trad climbing
- single pitch sport climbing
- winter climbing
- guiding/instructing
For single pitch climbing they are clearly not needed. Also, for multi-pitch alternate leading there is no need for a lanyard as it is straight-forward to use the rope(s) to build belays. When it comes to block leading the situation is worthy of some more thought. However, even here I can see no need for a lanyard.
In single pitch sport climbing there is a need for some sort of attachment in order to re-thread lower offs. That said, the vast majority of the top UK sport climbers who I've have climbed with all tend to use a chain of quickdraws which suggests they believe that it's a good enough option. Some climbers have a static sling (or Metolius PAS) permanently on their harness but I think it's a distinctly poor idea, so a dynamic Purcell is perhaps a step forward. However, in terms of usability a Purcell would likely be poorer. A normal dynamic rope cowstail (Fig-8 on harness + barrel knot on krab) or a Beal lanyard is far easier to use. So again, I see no reason to use a Purcell over any other options.
Now, what about Winter? Here, I can see no reason why I would do things differently at belay stances from normal rock climbing, so again cannot see a role for a Purcell.
Finally, what about instructing/guiding? Well I can certainly think of numerous scenarios in addition to multi-pitch abseiling when lanyards might be used:
- when rigging on the top of cliffs
- when jugging such as when teaching leading
- when doing other advanced instruction (e.g. improvised rescue training)
However, I fail to see a situation where the Purcell will clearly outperform either a standard dynamic rope cows tail or a Beal Dynaconnexion.
Anyway, I'd still be interested in hearing if anyone else things there is a 'killer app' where the Purcell is the best option.