UKC

Scarpa Vapours

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 nwclimber 28 Jul 2021

Like some climbers I know, once I've found a climbing shoe which fits me well, I stick with it and I've been very happy with the Vapours and gone through a number of pairs. 

In the last year or so, Scarpa introduced 'new' Vapours, inntroducing blue bits to the uppers.

Can anyone tell me if the blue bits are purely cosmetic and that the shoe is essentially the same as it's ever been, or if there have been other changes too (e.g. if the sizing is the same)? I'd be particularly keen to hear from climbers who've used both the old and new models.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

 Acrux 28 Jul 2021
In reply to nwclimber:

I haven't owned either of them, but I have tried them on. The original model fit me well, and I was close to buying a pair, but ended up going with another brand. I tried on the new model when I was looking for my next pair and they didn't fit. It felt to me like they changed the last, but maybe best to wait from someone else who has owned a pair. Better yet, try a pair for yourself if you can.

I ended up going with the Tenaya iati / mundaka instead, may not be what you're after but I think they have a similar fit

Post edited at 22:45
 Martin Bagshaw 28 Jul 2021
In reply to nwclimber:

I can't comment on the velcro version, but the laces have changed completely. The toe box is now a fat clunky thing, and they seemed to slip a bit too, for me at least.

Shame as they were a really good shoe, I felt like I could be nice and precise with my footwork in them, and they weren't too aggressive. Some people must get along with them though, otherwise they wouldn't sell.

 deepsoup 29 Jul 2021
In reply to nwclimber:

Are we talking Vapour V's here (the velcro ones)?  If so, I'm afraid the newer yellow & blue ones are significantly different to the yellow ones with the big rubber toe patches and the orange & white ones before them.  It isn't safe to just assume you'll like them, you need to try before you buy.

 lieraza 29 Jul 2021
In reply to nwclimber:

I used to wear the previous pair of Vapour Vs, the ones that came just before the current model. Friends who bought them said the latest version was a lot softer and less good for standing on edges, and online reviews seemed to back that up, so I stopped using them. I wear La Sportiva Katana velcros now, which I prefer (fit dependent of course, they are narrower).

Post edited at 09:37
In reply to nwclimber:

I can't speak for the Lace, but the Velcro (aka. Vapour V) is definitely a whole lot softer than its predecessor and I gave it a pretty damning review back in 2019: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/rock_shoes/scarpa_vapour_v-11807

 joe.91 29 Jul 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

New laces (blue) are supposed to be stiffer then the old yellow ones, which I found rather soft. New version again coming out next year, which I think is just updating the ugly blue design.

In reply to nwclimber:

Yeah, I used to use the old ones and now have a pair of the new ones. The fit is very similar, if not exactly the same, but as other have said, they have done something really bloody odd with them. The midsole is VERY soft, while the toe section continues to be rigid. That makes it feel too soft for an edging shoe yet too stiff for a soft smearing shoe. I get on with them alright but I'm not entirely sure what on Earth this design is supposed to excel at.

In reply to joe.91:

> New laces (blue) are supposed to be stiffer then the old yellow ones, which I found rather soft. New version again coming out next year, which I think is just updating the ugly blue design.

Without wishing to derail the current thread, I'm genuinely wondering what to do now that all of my favourite shoes are going soft. We've got the new TC Pro in for review later in the year, so maybe that's the only way to go, although that's at the complete opposite end of the spectrum - it's so stiff it's practically crampon compatible!!

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

Hah. I wish I'd read this review before I bought them. They outline the exact thing I found wearing them from the get go...

In reply to Alkis:

> Hah. I wish I'd read this review before I bought them. They outline the exact thing I found wearing them from the get go...

I really like Scarpa, as they - alongside La Sportiva - make the finest quality footwear out there; however, I just wish they'd ease off on the softening, as it's not what the vast majority of users across the UK actually want or need. If you're indoors or bouldering then it's great, but if you're out either trad climbing or sport climbing then the chances are that a little bit of extra support will go a long way.

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

It's especially anoying as I only discovered the Vapour V's just before they released the new version and bought two pairs, they fit me better than any other shoe I have ever tried...

 joe.91 29 Jul 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I'm happy I got a pair of the old Boostic's in storage for when I blow out my Instinct Laces! There are a few options left:

  • Miura VS
  • Otaki
  • Unparallel UpRise Pro 
  • Unparallel Newtro Lace
 steveriley 29 Jul 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I think the ugly truth is that outdoor climbers are becoming marginalised as a persecuted minority

In reply to Alkis:

> It's especially anoying as I only discovered the Vapour V's just before they released the new version and bought two pairs, they fit me better than any other shoe I have ever tried...

Me too. I was in the market for some new ones just after they changed them. Tried the new ones. They were crap. Bought the last 2 pairs of the old ones I could track down and stashed them in the back of the wardrobe.

This will be my M.O. from now on; I'll just go back and buy 3 more pairs of any shoe I get on with.
It used to be only five ten that would needlessly ruin the shoe that everyone had decided was great. Now all the other manufacturers have caught on and it seems to be the standard operating procedure.
"Hmm.... this is selling really well. Let's f**k it up".

 D.Russell 29 Jul 2021
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I used the original vapour laces (full orange) which were great, all the new versions are far too soft. 
I have now moved onto muira laces( got so fed up of companies changing shoes that I like and thought/hope that sportiva won’t change or discontinue these)  for multi pitch and instinct Velcro’s for single pitch. 
TC pros do soften up with use. They are my super comfy shoe for easier multi pitch climbs and any cracks. 

 nwclimber 29 Jul 2021
In reply to everyone:

Thanks to you all for taking the time to comment.

Looks like I'm going to have to waste a load of time trying to find my next 'go-to' shoe and buy a load of them 😒😢

 PaulJepson 29 Jul 2021
In reply to nwclimber:

The new vapour vs are a lot less comfortable for me than the old ones.

If you climb a lot on grit, consider the Scarpa Helix. 

 Ian Parsons 29 Jul 2021
In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

> It used to be only five ten that would needlessly ruin the shoe that everyone had decided was great. Now all the other manufacturers have caught on and it seems to be the standard operating procedure.

> "Hmm.... this is selling really well. Let's f**k it up".

Oh no; Asolo were way ahead of Five Ten with that particular trick, and EB probably invented it!

Post edited at 19:17
 wbo2 31 Jul 2021
In reply to nwclimber: My feeling is that the new ones are narrower than the old, plus the weird softness. I've just got my 'old' pair resoled.  

OP - tried the instinct lace , if you think he Vapour is too narrow?


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