UKC

I am about to start the beginners' indoor course soon.
I could try and borrow some shoes (rather than to use trainers) but the choice is still likely to be limited.
Therefore I am considering buying my first rock shoes and any recommendations are welcomed.

I have no expectations of achieving any high standards of climbing skills.
Not the right age (40), fitness and other circumstances but
I am still motivated to acquire some basic skills that I could use for indoor training and
occasional recreational mountain scrambles / via ferratas in Tatras / Dolomites / Costa Blanca.

I am fairly tall (6ft) and rather heavy, c. 100kg right now.
Fighting with overweight is my first and a key objective but I am unlikely to loose all that fat very soon
(being realistic but I am already on a good track to loose some of it).
I aim to burn 1-2 stones in c. 3 months and then maintain weight which I know I can do.
I have fairly strong legs (and walked a lot in higher mountains in my 20s) but my extra weight is not helping them right now.

I think I need a fairly supportive shoes and rather symmetrical ones in order to avoid early discomfort and disappointment.
Yes, I will go to local shops to try as many models as possible but any further advice will be appreciated.

I liked the idea of LaSportiva Cirque Pro as good shoes for mixed walking and climbing activities but
it looks like I may need "proper" climbing shoes at the end for pure indoor training.
I was looking at Five Ten Coyote (lace up).
There is a good deal for them in one place.
Can anybody comment anything on them or suggest an alternative model ?

Robert

In reply to rmaciag:

I bought the Coyotes two weeks ago.
First new boots for about 10 years. They're very comfy, and they're so sticky it feels like cheating.
Highly recommended.

In reply to rmaciag:
Get cheaper, comfortable ones rather than anything high-powered. Mrs SS has Coyotes and is very pleased with them as they don't aggravate previously broken foot. Makes for a whole better climbing experience!

In reply to rmaciag:

You're answering alot of your own questions there, but, yes-providing they're comfy they'll be a good choice of shoe for you.

Have fun!

In reply to rmaciag: I'm a bit of a lard arse but I don't think this is really a factor in choosing shoes. It's more important to find something that suits you.

I had a pair of Coyote's last year and hated them. I was really pleased when they wore out in record time.

I've currently got a pair of Sportiva Katanas, excellent all round shoe;
5.10 Gambit, not very comfortable but very precise, I wear these when I'm pushing my meagre abilities.
and a truly aincient pair of resoled sportiva Mythos, not very precise but really comfy, I wear these when I've been climbing too much and my feet are killing me.

most importantly find something that fits you, as a beginner you probably don't need anything too technical and you'll wear them out quicker so don't spend too much.

In reply to rmaciag:

I'm about your height and weight, but I'd hesitate to recommend a particular shoe, as everyone's feet are different.

I had the 5.10 Spires, which fit me perfectly, and when they started to wear I was told that the "new, improved Coyotes" were replacing them. Tried them and they were shite for my feet. I managed to find a store which still had Spires in my size so got another pair of them. Lord knows what I'll do when they give out, as everything else I've tried recently doesn't feel right!

In reply to ALL

Many thanks for all the feedback.
I really appreciate it.

I have just checked the deal on Five Ten Coyote and they have run out of my size (approx) now.

Yes, I think I need to try all these different shoes on and then judge for myself (as you all advised me to do).
There are only two shops locally selling climbing shoes : UrbanRock and Snow+Rock.
I have checked on the web what they stock.

UrbanRock
I may be tempted to try FiveTen Spire, LaSportiva Rockjock, LaSportiva Cliff 5 and possibly LaSportiva Barracuda.
They recommend Cliff 5 for beginners.

S+R
Hmmm … FiveTen Coyote or T Rock.
Then LaSportiva Cliff 5 (again).
Or may be Scarpa Vantage ?

Can anyone comment on that LaSportiva Cliff 5 shoe ?

Many of you wrote that some shoes did or did not “fit well”.
Can you explain what “good fit” should really mean ?
Possibly that the shoes are not loose so they wrap around feet closely, I guess.
I know it is hard to explain.
It is a bit like with buying skiing boots.
Until you start skiing well you do not really know what a good skiing boot is.

In reply to rmaciag:

I would just recommend tight, (but not so tight they cut off the circulation in your toes), and as comfy as you can get with that tightness. I have a pair or Boreal Jokers and I love them to bits. Go to a shop and try as many on as you can and speak to the sales guy (if they have any knowledge) about the individual differences between the shoes and how they will benefit you, then you can make an informed decisions based on comfort and what you hope to achieve.

Stacey

In reply to rmaciag:
>> Many of you wrote that some shoes did or did not “fit well”.

Basically tightish, but not so tight that they're painful to keep on between routes or pitches.

Widthways fit for me is important as I have quite wide feet. I usually get laceups as I feel I have more overall width adjustment with them.

Lengthways, I tend to go for my toes fitting very snugly (ie right up against the end) into the toe-box. Better climbers than me may sometimes go for such a tight fit in the toe-box that their toes are slightly curled under.

It's there that I tend to get fit problems...finding shoes of the right shape that my toes are snug at the front. My feet widen out rather quickly so many shoes crush my toes sideways.

For me, for example, the Coyote's weren't such a bad fir in the toe, but I don't have a very pronounced heel, so even with my toes right in the box in them, there was still a big void at the back. going a size smaller crushed my toes without perceptibly imprtoving the heel fit.

If you have a lot of room in the toe-box, placing won't be as precise as it could be. The Boreals that I started out with had so much room in the toes that they tended to "roll off" small holds. I noticed the difference as soon as I got the Spires.

In reply to rmaciag: Go to Urbanrock. The guys in there know more about Rock Shoes than most places. I've bought my last 3 pairs of shoes there and they've always been helpful.

In reply to Rob Naylor:

Rob, many thanks for the advice.

I went to S+R yesterday lunchtime.
I had c. 30 mins of fun wearing 3-4 different designs in 1-2 different sizes (also wearing my office outfit !).
Unfortunately they hardly had any shoes in my usual size 44.
Some 5.10 were very odd. In size 44.5 they felt too tight but in size 45 (so half the size bigger) they felt far too big with plenty of room left in the toe box.

I will visit the UrbanRock this weekend to check what they got in stock.

In reply to yesbutnobutyesbut:

Many thanks for the advice.
My climbing school recommended them too.
I am going to visit them this weekend (they are c. 10 mins drive away from my home but in London's charging zone; still free access after 6PM and anytime on weekends).

In reply to rmaciag:
Hi, you might want to consider the mithos as well. http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=432

they are a very comfy boot. They lace right to the toe almost, which means they can ajust well to a variety of shapes of feet.

In reply to Pinky:

I have read their review (thanks for the link).
It sounds like they may be the right choice for me.
I had a quick scan with google and did not find them in offer of any local shops nearby.
That will make trying them on a bit of a challange.

In reply to rmaciag: Not sure where local is for you. Decathalon have them. If you are in the south there are a few stores dotted around london. If you are up-north then there is one in Sheffield.

In reply to Pinky:

They have a store on eastern side of London.
I am "based" around West London so their shop is neither close nor far away (possibly I could drive to Birmingham in less time than would take me to get to Surrey Quays). I suppose it all depends on "motivation". Let me do some work on my motivation and I may decide to have a ride ...

In reply to rmaciag:

If Urban Rock don't come up with the goods, you might try Rock On, who also know what they're talking about. Your nearest will be at Guildford (Craggy Island wall).