UKC

Checking over my harness last night and noticed it was made in 2016 so it is about time to replace. Looking for recommendations for quality/durable/comfortable trad harnesses. I was looking at the Sendero however there seems to be some durability issues with the previous model. 

Any good recommendations?

I've always been a fan of the DMM Renegade. The only thing better is the previous version. 

Lot of trad harness info covered here...https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/gear/gogarth_harness-778201

Agreed, the current version is good for sport climbing but is very poor for trad. I told DMM about this in detail and I was thanked for my feedback, which doesn't mean much.

I like Petzl Corax because of its multi adjustability making it equally easy to reach gear loops on both sides. 

Why sport but not trad? 

I reviewed the first Renegade 17 years ago (how the f did that happen?) https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/harnesses/dmm_renegade_harness-133... and then the next model in 2012 https://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/10/dmm-renegade-harness-review.... - I've still got that one and use it once in while but not often. I've gone off it - compared to more modern designs it feels heavy, bulky packed in your rucksack and the firm nature of the padding I'm not sure works as well as modern laminate designs. Maybe it's a fashion thing but the design feels dated now.

Lykul: I reviewed the first Sendero a few years ago https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/climbing/harnesses/edelrid_sendero_harness_... I felt it was brilliant and was an all-rounder for me. But like some other people noted the face material on those first ones is not tough, and the harness now looks pretty beat up - moreso than any other harness I have used. The newer version is supposedly tougher, I've seen UKC reviewers in other reviews wearing them but no one seems to have published a review of the updated Sendero itself as yet. I'm interested because if they've kept what I like about the original one and made it tougher, I'd be tempted to buy one for myself - especially as I've seen them discounted. 

I think the Arcteryx have the best (stiffest) gear loops and that’s what i’ll be buying to replace my DMM Renegade next.

I wouldn't describe it as "very poor" for trad, just not as good as the previous version. 

BD Momentum. Simple but effective, and fairly cheap.

Why is it poor for trad? I've just replaced my old Renegade with a new one, but haven't done any trad with it yet. My first impression is that I prefer the new gear loops.

I have been using the older Renegade for a few years, but after wearing through the tie in points, I have just upgraded to a Sirana TC (lighter version of the Sendero)

The Sirana is much lighter, and more comfortable.  However, I feel the gear loops are not as good for trad (its early days), and its definitely not as durable.

I have a BD Solution that I use for indoors/sport that is also great.  Mid weight, comfy and durable.

Good Trad harnesses seem harder to find these days, as they are all going down the sporty/ fewer gear loops trend.

I use a BD Big gun for longer days hanging around, which is great for that, but really heavy.

I mostly use the Black Diamond Alpine Bod for everything.

In reply to Stefan J:- My newest harness is a Petzl Corax, and I like it in general, but it's not as easy to set up in the colder months as the Alpine Bod.

Arcteryx 395A is definitely worthy of the hype. It's the comfiest harness I've ever worn, it's got great gear loops and it packs down small and light.

Because the gear loops on the new version are too far back to be able to see what you're reaching for. The previous Renegade did not have this problem and gear visibility was very good.

The new version is great for sport because you don't need to know what you're reaching for, because it's always a quickdraw

Fair enough although they are still pretty heavy and clunky by modern standards. I suppose on that basis, any harness is great for sport!

I'm trying to work out if they have changed the Renegade again, I have the first and second generations - I don't remember ever having issues with not being able to see my gear with either model. They still have the 7 loops don't they? Some of the loops must be quite far forward on the waist padding? Perhaps it depends if you're at the bottom of a large size or top of a medium?

Frankly, I loved my old Wild Country Synchro harness (double-back buckles) - in fact, I had 2 - and didn't want to give them up! Don't like look of the new style.

Bought a DMM Viper last year, out of necessity and as the only one I liked that was in stock at the time for me to try on, but the sizing seems odd - to get the correct waist size, the leg loops seem over long and won't quite go tight enough. Keep meaning to email DMM about it.

I'm on my third Renegagade and couldn't find anything better. Tried a few others and the lack of enough loops for my size of rack meant there was no alternative that worked for me.

Agreed, the old syncro is ace , still using one right now , but on the hunt for a new harness as it is 10+ years old 

BD solution is perfect for sport , but the gear loops really are way too small for trad , i like to have a lot of pro options myself as i'm a scaredy cat 

Toying with the idea of buying an Ocun weebee big wall , seems to get alright reviews i have used a weebee slide in the past which is fairly comfy, certainly better than a renegade which i find terrible to sit in, the padding is just too hard and inflexible for big routes 

I completely agree. The gear loops on the new one were in a completely different position, much further back. Also, the rear gear loop was moved lower and made half the size - can't understand why this change was made.

I almost took it back to the shop but I had a cunning plan! I essentially figured that the PPE elements of the 2 harnesses were the same with just the waist belt being different. So I took the waist belt off the old one and put it on the new one. Bit of a faff getting it pushed through (nut key came in handy) and I had to unstitch the end of the waist belt to do this. Also, the elastic bits at the rear had different clips so a bit of diy resolved that easily enough. Voila, back to being an excellent trad harness.

However, I think I will be shopping around a bit for my next harness. Needs to be a bit more comfortable than the Renegade is on a hanging stance, I'll just need to test the gear loop positioning in the shop first.

Yes - I was still happy climbing on them personally, but having got my Scouts climbing qualifications renewed, I needed something in-date for when I'm instructing.

Not sure I'd buy another Viper, though, unless they sort out the leg loop sizing.

I have had a viper and found a very similar thing, really odd sizing, or at least not well fitting for me.

I actually decided on a Petzl Adjama, really like the gear loops, two solid ones at the front, two cord ones just behind and a fifth on the back. Feels well made and comes well reviewed. 

I agree with others above - I have found Arcteryx harnesses to be the most comfortable, though the minimalist Petzl Sitta (& probably also the even more minimalist Whisper) comes close, & is more packable. But the one quibble I have is how the plastic stiffener on the gear loops seems to decompose, leaving just the floppy tape loop. Has anyone found a neat repair fix?

I’ve just got a Wild Country Session harness which seems to tick all the boxes for me, comfortable and copious gear loops

I'm a big fan of the Ocun Twist Tech.

Floating waistband is really important to me, so everything stays centered regardless of how many layers you're wearing. Very few harnesses seem to have this now.