UKC

Hoping some shoe geeks out there can give me some advice...

Its hard to find good info comparing actual volume/rand shape.

I've worn Vapor Vs for years... out of the box they fit like a suction cup.

I'm far from any decent shops so have to rely on online orders.

 

This year I've started climbing/setting indoors a lot.  So need something with much better for toe hooking but still able to smear on volumes (go figure).   Being able use them for sport limestone/granite to high 7s would also be great.

I tried a pair of Dragos a half size down from my Vapors but found the heel way too baggy.  Anyone else found that?

Would Furia or VS /-R be any better?

 

I guess I'm only sticking to Scarpa because the Vapors fit so well. 

Thanks 

In reply to AymanC:

Vapour v’s are the best fit for me but the instinct Vs and VSR are also comfy and a nice more aggressive complement. I recently bought a pair of instinct lace as well- jury is still out but they feel slightly wider I think because of the upper and also stiffer than the VS because of the 3/4 midsole.

In reply to AymanC:

In these circumstances the Instinct VS sound like the best bet. I have an old pair of Scarpa Forces that that wear for warming up/stamina training and then switch to Instinct VS for technical climbing (up to 7c limestone and hard sandstone sport as well as indoor bouldering) - brilliant for tiny nubbins and toe/heel hooking, good enough for smearing. The Forces and the Instinct VS both fit me perfectly. 

In reply to AymanC:

Furia and Drago are much softer than Vapours as well as being more aggressive.

VS are stiff and more aggressive than Vapours; would probably be a better choice for sport routes. Maybe less good than Furia or Drago for indoor smearing.  They are a different last than than the Drago so if that doesn't fit your heel, they are certainly worth a try.

In reply to AymanC: .ive got a pair of the old back Furia and think they're great, and I'm on my 4th pair vapor b's

I'd try them

 

 

This is really helpful guys thanks.

The heel was my only problem with the Drago...felt like about a cm of space on either side of my heel!

In reply to AymanC:

The Instinct will be best heel for you if Vapor fits. The drago / furia / chimera all have worse heels for me. Vs or Vsr depending on your weight/preference.