UKC

I'm in the market for a new pair of mountain boots. Mainly to be used on mountain routes (dry, wet or snowy) in the UK and the Alps. I would probably use them occasionally for ridge and gulley climbs (Scot I to III). I will, of course go to a shop and try before I buy.

I have read the following: https://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/footwear/mountain_boots/all_round_b1-b2_mou... but I just wanted any first hand accounts of what you have and would recommend.

B2 Boots can cover a range of sins from things that should really be B1 or less with a heel clip added for marketing, to heavy duty stiff offerings that are nearly rigid. Currently I have both from Salewa in my stable.

Salewa Crows; Light modern fabric synthetics with goretex. Narrow at heel,  wide’ish at front. Easy to walk-in, great for distance  and scrambling, leak like a sieve from nearly new, ridiculously flexible for a B2, so much so that I brought complete strap on crampons not trusting semi autos to stay on. Sole wears down in a blink, no point in getting a resole, they will be trashed. Not warm at all.

Salewa Vulturs; Fit as above with a bit more toe room. Heavy full leather with goretex, fatiguing to walk-in, will keep you warm in all that Scottish winter can throw, very stable platform (but mine don’t seam to like Black Diamond crampons). Stiff but reasonable flex so you can do distance. Sole seams like it may also wear quickly but resoling shouldn’t be a problem. Can climb steep stuff.

I have had 2 pairs of b2 trango cubes and a pair of b2 arcteryx acrux lt's, I would say that obviously fit is the most important. Generally speaking you tend to fall into one of two camps on the fit side of things, la sportiva (narrow/low volume) or Scarpa (wide/high volume). Then once you've figured what fit you are then I'd start looking at individual models. 

Stiff b2's include Scarpa manta, la sportiva Nepal trek these are basically as stiff as b2 boots get really. I would put the acrux Lt in this category but they are far too cold for any serious cold. Mantas had a funny fit and I found them baggy, Nepal's fit me great but they are too heavy. 

Mid b2's Scarpa charmoz, la sportiva trango, this is kind of the bread and butter category do it all stiff enough to climb grade 2/3 in but not uncomfortable on a walk in. Generally they will be just warm enough. The charmoz was just weird to short and wide of a fit. I used trango cubes for 8 years and climbed grade 2 in them easily I would highly recommend trangos if they fit.

Flexi b2, mammut kento, mammut taiss mid, Scarpa ribelle and la sportiva aequilibrium these are gonna be more comfortable to walk and scramble in and will be great on lower angle or alpine terrain they will walk similar to a stiff walking boot. They do however have their limits and climbing in these will be more difficult. I tried on both mammut boots but found a bit of heel raise and couldn't lock the laces tight enough to get rid of it, the ribelle's where nice and a friend has used them surprisingly very durable sole. Aequilibriums are a bit wider than the trango and less technical. 

I have tried on all the boots I listed and arrived at the acrux lt's because they are stupidly light, very stiff for a b2 and also narrow so fit my feet fit well. The also fit petzl and grivel crampons well as my friend has a pair of acrux Lt and grivel g12's. The sole is a bit slippy at times and they don't have a brilliant lacing system but it is the best material lace hook option I've found.

Good luck finding the right boot

https://search.app/ftZkzrgUZJeU7zXd9

Decathlon's finest. A1 provided they fit your foot shape

Something to consider is whether ulyou go for something super light weight and sexy that'll wear out fast, or a bit of a heavier work horse in the same stiffness.

I loved the trango cubes but wore them out quite fast. The trango towers are heavier but are looking much better after a full alpine season.

I'd tend to agree with Will above as I did the same. I bought a pair of Hanwag Combi's that felt great but wore out very fast. I upgraded to the Scarpa Manta Tech and they are still as good as new after 2 cold seasons. I'd rather have the extra weight and insulation to cover all bases and have them last 4 times longer.

Interesting. I've got a pair of Manta Pro and I'd say they were on the snug side - don't seem to have a lot of room in the toes, especially, compared to my ancient original Manta M4. There may be an element of stretch in the old ones/lack of breaking in of the new ones, but I'm definitely going to need thinner socks in the Pro to start with.

Many thanks for your comments, they have made for interesting reading and given me lots of food for thought.

Your comment align with an article in the latest issue of Trail magazine which I received a couple of days ago.

I think I will look for something that is primarily used for mountain walking in all weathers but that also allow for lower grade winter ascents. I had a look at the LA Sportiva Aequilibrium ST today and liked them but also want to check out the LT version.

I have previously had Raichle 60 Degree and Scarpa Manta boots so I really do need to try whatever I decide first.

Thanks again

I have been sat in front of this computer for ages, I finally worked out that the Scarpa Charmoz was the boot for me, only to find that it appears discontinued!

Anyone any idea what Scarpa have in place of the Charmoz? Is it a version of the Ribelle?

Maybe have a look at the Scarpa ribelle lite then I think it's a different fit though, it's narrower and lower volume than the charmoz.

Fwiw I found the Ribelle Lites really useless for waterproofing and have been told the same by far more experienced others (and that they're too cold for Scottish winter, which I haven't tried them in myself). I took mine back to Outside after my feet got wet pretty immediately on using them and they tested them and agreed with me. 

Might be ok for summer alpine (where I used them) but given those massive shortcomings in the UK I wouldn't bother. 

My wife has a pair of Ribelle lites and after a day last week on a wet ridge in the Cairngorms, her boots were saturated all the way through. Great for a dry cold day but useless in wet.

Crikey, 3 posts all saying the same thing. I think I need to rethink my choice. 🙄

The best ones start with, ones that fit.  Are you able to get yourself down a decent shop to try some out?

Slim pickings here in Bristol, however I'm heading to Taunton Leisure and Cotswolds, both in the town centre today. 

Wish me luck 🤣

I had a pair of charmoz, they leaked like a sieve in short order.

Anything fabric relying on a member will end up being a sponge sooner than later, if subjected to poky heather, bog and abrasive rock. A big rand helps but only delays that outcome.

Another vote for the Arcteryx Acrux LTs. They're incredibly comfortable, incredibly light, totally waterproof (so far...) and I've found them very good on rock. I've comfortably climbed severe in them and they've been good on wet scrambles. I've yet to be out in very cold weather in them but I suspect they might be very well insulated, although if you were considering Charmoz before maybe that's not a deal breaker for you.

I have Ribelle lights and do like them for winter hillwalking /low level climbing but, as mentioned by others, they are not warm boots. I've only had properly wet feet in them once and that was on a type 2 fun day where I was soaked to the skin by the time I hit the car so not really a boot failure so I'm not sure that there is an issue with waterproofing per se, but the outer fabric doesn't breathe well so they do get damp inside even on dry days.

Not a replacement for the Charmoz but a contemporary, there are still a few Scarpa Triolet around in the internet outlets if you know your size -the Triolet GTX shares the same last and for me was the most comfortable boot out of the box I'd ever worn. I understand it to have been the leather version of the synthetic (Out-Dry) Charmoz.

My sole reservation (!) on the Triolet as a boot was the relatively thin sole unit that was fine for winter and kept the weight down but looked like it would wear out sooner than a full thickness one on rock or all year use. That would be the same as the Charmoz though.  I replaced my Triolet's  with the chunkier Mont Blanc Pro to go B3 for climbing.  Could be worth a look.

My B2s are the Manta Techs. In many ways they are ace, durable, warm, and good for all sorts, but I never use them nowadays. My b3s are lighter and warmer, so I'm pretty much either in b3s or trail runners. 

If I were to repurchase b2s, I'd defo go for something nice and light like the Ribelle Lite, Trango Tower, or the Charmoz (depending on fit). Especially for the alps, especially when carrying boots in a backpack on rock routes or just slogging up a couple of thousand metres of ascent I feel it would make a big difference. 

I'm slightly sceptical about the versatility of the super light b2s like the Scarpa Aequillibrium or Ribelle Tech, they seem fantastic for some things but I don't think they'd be quite versatile enough for me to justify the cash - but I haven't used them so very good chance I'm entirely wrong. 

Nothing doing in Bristol - in fact none of the shops stocked any B2s, that'll teach me to call first.

I'm heading to the Lakes next Monday, I'll probably base myself around Ambleside... what outdoor shops would you recommend for my needs?

I had to sell my Charmoz boots - light and stiff, but not right for me. I replaced them with a pair of Sportiva Aequilibriums, which I've used winter and summer, snow, rock, via ferrata - really pleased.

Go to Rock and Run at Arnside for great choice and expert fitting

Needlesports at Keswick.

I just looked on their website and it appears that they only have Scarpa Manta boots.

(I didn't give the dislike vote btw)

That's a good shout, it doesn't add a lot to my journey.

That seems like a mistake somewhere - I bought my Manta’s from there last year, they definitely had La Sportiva Trangos (and some others) in my size

Agreed, there's lots of B2-ish choice on the Needlesports website, and not far away in Keswick there are several different brands at George Fisher

I have no idea what I did there, but I've just checked again and there are heaps of option!

I'll check them out again - thanks

Odd, I counted 5 pairs of B2 boots. Didn't check the size availability so maybe the Manta is the only one in your size. Great boot.

There are a good few stores in the Lakes so why not pop up for a couple of days and try a load of stuff on and get out whilst you're up there. Hope you find something.

That's exactly what I'm doing. I'm heading up on Monday for five days so I'll have time to check the stores out as well as getting out to play.

All done and dusted. I tried numerous pairs of boots in and finally went for the Scarpa Ribelle Lite. 

Thanks fur the recommendations. I ended up buying them at the Climbers Shop in Ambleside.

I'll try them out tomorrow. 

Many thanks to all contributers to this thread, you all helped me get the right bit in the end. Cheers

*Apologies for the numerous typos... I'm sure you are able to join the dots :-D