UKC

Looking for an approach shoe that climbs/scrambles well (Cuillin Ridge/Dolomites Via Ferratas etc.) but also is reasonable on wet grass/mud for scrambling in the Lakes/Scotland.

Something like La Sportiva TX Guide / La Sportiva TX4 EVO / Scarpa Mescalito?

Any advice appreciated.

Not actually worn these yet, but very interested in Scarpa Rapid XT (for the features, and for the wide forefoot), and looking forward to trying them on.

I have La sportiva TX guide leather. They are extremely nice pub shoes that can cope with some scrambling.

One feature is there's no toecap, the tongue goes all the way down to end of the shoe. This means the laces can tighten up around the toes for scrambling, but it also means damp grass, slight puddles, wet pavements water goes onto the fabric tongue and makes your foot wet.

The tread isn't aggressive enough for steep grass slopes IMHO although noticeably better than the dotty pattern like octopus suckers used on many approach shoes.

Dolomite in summer, via feratta in the dry, quite probably, to the pub most definitely. Cullin Ridge? IMHO no.

I also have La Sportiva TX4 mid GTX. I would wear them on hills in summer, I would wear them scrambling but I wouldn't wear them to the pub.

Opinions may differ, the above is just me...

I really like the Boreal Drom. Tough as nails, good tread for mud and grass, a waterproof membrane that actually last (mine lasted 5 years and probably close to 1000km) and nice and stiff for technical stuff. The regular version is a bit heavy but they do a tech version which is much lighter although I've not tried it. 

I had the TX Guide and replaced them with the TX Guide Leather. This was, for me, a mistake. The leather version doesn’t fit my feet anywhere near as well (there is less “give” in the leather).

I would use them both for the Cullin (they are ideal imho) but for the name the synthetic ones would be better.

I've got the TX4 and have done a few routes in the Lakes with them (Troutdale Pinnacle, Corvus, Gillercombe Buttress etc.) and have found them good so far. Think mine are leather so take a while to dry out if you get them wet. Not too bad on grass, they have got a slight heel but not much to help dig in. Quite a bit of rubber all around so should help to protect them a while hopefully.

Would have liked to have tried out the Scarpa Mescalito Planet as I think they are supposed to be a bit stiffer but couldn't find any.

I just got my second pair of Salewa MTN Trainer 2's, the gtx version. They're nice and burly whilst still being good for scrambling, and unlike the La Sportiva equivalents the tongue comes right up to the top so they have decent waterproofing. 

I'd agree with galinos but the other way around - I prefer the leather version. Try before you buy I guess, the synthetic guides have a reputation for being very narrow. 

Definitely try them on first!

My leather pair feel narrower but i think that’s because they don’t give as much as the upper is stiffer. Having measured them the sole is the same but the upper on my synthetics IS wider, but they have seen a LOTv more wear than the leathers so I assume this is just because they bedded into my feet.

I like the Sportiva Boulder X. Quite a bit cheaper, better tread than the others, surprisingly precise when climbing, super comfy and found when I was fitting boots for a while, that they seemed to fit more people than the TX. TX's are comfy for sure but tend to have a narrower profile than some. The XT Rapid, didn't get on with the shape at all when I tried them on. They seem wide in weird places to me....

I bought some Mescalito back before Easter. So far I'm really impressed with them, by far the best 'technical' approach shoes I've had since some Montrail CTCs which must have been binned over a decade ago.  The Scarpas have very normal lacing eyelets which is great because that was what let down some otherwise good to scramble and hike in Dolomite shoes that were my last pair of technical approach shoes.

I've had Mescalitos as my main work/play approach shoe for a couple of years. Great on dry rock and easy climbing but pretty bad on steep grass if at all damp.

I've just moved over to the new Rapid XT and they're noticeably better on mud and grass. The more aggressive tread pattern is probably the biggest difference here.

For VFs you want something with a heel step to stop you slipping off ladder rungs.  I had my Sportiva B5s (yes they're that old) re-soled with a vibram 'commando sole' with toe smearing edges and they're phenomenal on dirt/grass.

I love my Boulder X Mids, they fit my narrow low-volume feet really well. However, I find them treacherous on wet grass, especially once a little worn, and I’ve had a couple of scary moments in them. I have a few pairs and I’ve had the older ones re-soled in Vibram and they are way better on grass now.

Actually the same, I have mids and had them resoled and they're much better. I suppose from my point of view they perform almost as well as the TX but cost a lot less.

I regularly climb up to grade severe in my Sportiva Guide shoes. Thus far, they’ve been fine on wet descents too, but obviously less efficient that a pair of boots for this. However, as an all round choice I think they are good - if the fit works for you!

These rock! I have worn these for laps of Scottish mountain scrambles such as Curved Ridge and on a technical rock ridge on a famous altitude peak in Nepal, surely they fit your requirements? 

https://www.hoka.com/en/gb/men-hiking/anacapa-breeze-mid/197634705989.html?...

Ive had both tx 4 and scarpa mescalido. Found the tx4 better to climb in, they fit my feet better and felt i had more friction. The scarpas are better in the rain imo, i climbed dubh slabs, over and down to glenbrittle in heavy rain and my feet only got damp

Both performed exceptionally on the cuillin ridge. When i need to upgrade i'll be going back to the tx4 or the tx guide. I feel la sportiva fot me better

I am also watching this thread keenly. Have always used trail shoes over the years, but for things like the Cuillin perhaps the approach shoe is the best thing? Wore my old B2 boots last time and felt very clumpy for most of the time.

Anyone used the Scarpa Rapid LT Approach Shoes? 

I have a pair of Sportiva TX4 mid boots. They are by far the most comfortable lightweight boot I've ever had, excellent for scrambling and great on rock, good edging ability.

Not so great on wet grass due to tread pattern, but for long days scrambling on mostly rock, I'd choose them over anything else I've ever owned. They are not overly waterproof, seem to wet out fairly quickly even when fairly new.

My pair have last about 3 years, so longevity perhaps not the best, but I can live with that as so comfortable. I have totally abused them as well.    

I've got the Rapid XTs Goretex and I absolutely love them. Done loads of hillwalking, scrambling, approaching, and even partying in the mud at festivals in them, always bone dry and comfortable. Even done the grey corries in thigh deep snow in them. Bombproof shoe, 10/10, really pleased I've finally found the shoe I can just buy again and again (hopefully they don't get discontinued!)