UKC

Which Micro Cams

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 Aigen 27 May 2025

In the market for a set of Micro Cams. I have narrowed it down to the list below. 


Micro Cams

Black Diamond - Z4
DMM - Dragon Fly
Wild Country - Zero's
FIXE - Alien X Double Sling
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 perambulator 27 May 2025
In reply to Aigen:

If you can get to a shop to have a feel of some I would really recommend it (or if you've got mates who have some try out theirs). Dragonflies are winning the vote by a long way but you might not get on with them - I have them and wish I'd bought Z4s. The head is really wide (wider than Z4s and 0s I think?) which can make them super fiddly to place, combined with the fact that they are quite floppy, and get much floppier if you fall on them and the wire gets bent. Obviously YMMV, but when I've used my mates' Z4s I've found them much nicer to place 

1
 midgen 27 May 2025
In reply to Aigen:

I find dragonflies attract dirt and grit and sieze up quite easily, I switched to WC Zeros which don’t seem to suffer that problem. Although I much prefer totems in sizes they cover.

1
 PaulJepson 27 May 2025
In reply to Aigen:

I've tried the top 3 (have used older Aliens but not the FIXE ones) and WC Zeros are my top pick. Can't get on with the weird plasticky bit on the BDs and the action on DMMs does degrade with use. WC Zeros are really good and the metal bit on the thumb loop is really nice.

As someone who doesn't particularly get on with extendable slings, I rate Metolius' small cams as well. The older ones with the thumb-loops were the best but the newer ones are okay. They can degrade a bit in saltier climates though, I have found (always give them a good wash after seacliffs). 

2
 Danbow73 27 May 2025
In reply to perambulator:

I have some z4's and all the trigger wires broke within 12 months, Black diamond would not repair them even with me offering to pay. I did really like them but they seemed to be made poorly which is why I voted dragonflies (which I now use)

 Danbow73 27 May 2025
In reply to perambulator:

I have some z4's and all the trigger wires broke within 12 months, Black diamond would not repair them even with me offering to pay. I did really like them but they seemed to be made poorly which is why I voted dragonflies (which I now use)

 Cake 27 May 2025
In reply to Aigen:

From black totem size upwards, totems are best

1
 Graeme Hammond 27 May 2025
In reply to Cake:

> From black totem size upwards, totems are best

unless its an deeper placement in which case the bulk of them gets in the way.

The wires in some cases catch but usually this is the block behind the lobes that gets in the way. This is because distance between the cam lobe and material against which the springs sit is shorter than most so they can't be placed as easily deep inside a crack. An example would be if the placement is larger than the opening of the crack when you would need to slide it along a crack from a wide opening to this better placement.

there are other negatives like the weight bearing cables being more susceptible to damage in placement. Or the cams being extremely prone to stickiness after use in sea cliff environments. Or in the case of the larger Z4s (0.3 and above) the twin axle means they can be used passively inside a pocket where a Totem would explode. But all of the cams have pros and cons and there are loads of occasions where the totem is king too.

Post edited at 13:29
In reply to Danbow73:

> I have some z4's and all the trigger wires broke within 12 months, Black diamond would not repair them even with me offering to pay. 

 

Poor show by BD. Worth having a go yourself. I’m pretty happy with my alien repair using garden wire. Also was recommended that fishing line works well and you can melt the ends to make a blob to stop them pulling through


In reply to Aigen:

Not a DMM dragonfly fan either. Friends have reported they seize up easily and I’ve found they pull out of placements too easily for my liking. Recently bought the two smallest ‘vintage’ aliens off eBay to replace them. Think the softer metal is better for sticking in the rock. Not sure about the newer Fixe ones. In the bigger sizes Totems are awesome although aliens are a bit narrower and can fit tighter placements such as in pockets where a totem wouldn’t.

1
 Conor1 28 May 2025
In reply to Aigen:

I have the small blue FIXE Alien and I'm not a big fan - decided it wasn't worth getting the others. Not sure why, it just doesn't feel very reassuring. Haven't tried the others you list so I haven't voted.

 timparkin 28 May 2025
In reply to midgen:

> I find dragonflies attract dirt and grit and sieze up quite easily, I switched to WC Zeros which don’t seem to suffer that problem. Although I much prefer totems in sizes they cover.

It's worth investing in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and metolious cam lube. It works a treat as long as you give them a clean once they start getting a bit sticky. I've resurrected really stuck cams from friends by leaving them in the cleaner for a couple of hours and lubing.

 olddirtydoggy 28 May 2025
In reply to Aigen:

I've a set of Dragonflys and I'm not happy with the smaller sizes due to the head width. I've started switching to ballnuts and have found them to be much better when the placements are deep enough.

1
 Mike-W-99 28 May 2025
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Thats interesting , we added a green dragonfly to our rack and I've found it to be excellent in some very unusual placements.

 olddirtydoggy 28 May 2025
In reply to Mike-W-99:

What we do find it the ballnuts vs draginflys do seem to excel depending on where we're climbing. Last week in langdale the ballnuts won the day but some of the fine splits on quarried grit can take the odd microcam.

 Twiggy Diablo 29 May 2025

DMM are made in Wales and they will resling/refurbish them when they get old.

WC still haven’t solved this issue satisfactorily abd I think BD have to be sent back to the US

2
 PaulJepson 30 May 2025
In reply to Twiggy Diablo:

This is very true but with micro-cams, they're usually looking pretty ragged by the time the slings need replacing. You're not going to get many (if any) re-slings out of micro gear. 

 Dunthemall 01 Jun 2025
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

Great for pushing into old peg scars

 Davidson07 01 Jun 2025
In reply to Danbow73:

I had the same problem with my Z4's.  I gave up on them and moved on, despite really liking them.


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