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COMPETITION: Your Help Needed: Recommend A Welsh Climb

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 UKC Articles 24 Aug 2011
We want Peirs, 4 kbWe've teamed up with Visit Wales to give you the chance to win a pair of La Sportiva Katana Velcro rock shoes.

Answer a simple question for a chance to win!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3982

Q. Where is the best climb in Wales and why?
 Skyfall 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

The best place to climb in Wales is Tremadog. There's nothing to beat sitting at the top of the cliffs at the end of a great day's climbing watching the sun set over mountains, sea, the Ffestiniog railway and the great climbing and motorbiking institution of Eric's Cafe.
 willotheward 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

One cannot simply choose 'one' climbing destination in north wales due to the awesome variety of experiences available. The thought of having a rugby fan shed a tear of fear as he belly shuffles towards the end of twll mawr does bring a sparkle to my own however, as well as offering the best view of the most epic place to be in Wales. And hey lets be honest the climbing aint half bad either!
Cheers, Bill
 bugs29 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Sadly I haven't had the chance to climb in Wales. I have however read Jerry Moffat's book, Revelations, and by doing so realised how many "historic" routes can be found there. Reading this book significantly increased the size of my wishlist on UKC! In addition, having hiked in Snowdonia, with my most memorable experience being the scrambling up Crib Goch, I have had a taste at how wonderful those mountains must be to climb. And with such nice landscapes and surroundings, no doubt that, no matter the grade you operate at, you will enjoy climbing in Wales! I have also heard that lots of multi-pitch routes can be found there, giving for an even more adventurous experience.
 Dizz 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Piers should begin his trip to Wales by having the very pleasant, but traditionally epic trip across a sunny Dream of White Horses, above sparkling seas and frolicking seals, preceded (and followed if quick enough and it is not dark yet - take your head torch Piers) by the excellent tea and cake in the South Stack cafe! This would be a brilliant warm up for all that could follow at Gogarth, the Pass, Tremadog ... oh so much to do!
 griffer boy 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Dinbren, A remote unspoilt, quiet area of wales not what you expect from welsh climbing, Piers needs to climb, climb High and sit at the top overlooking the beautiful welsh hills, then a quick pint the the Corn Mill to fonish off a perfect welsh day.
 robblowen 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Clogwyn du'r arddu, the atmosphere, scale and history of the place are awesome.
robatkinson 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: east face of tryfan. big routes, and amazing scenary
 eclcswat 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:Clogwyn Du'r Arddu has got to be the best place to go climbing in Wales, it is a truely awe-inspiring mountain crag tucked away on the famous, Mount Snowdon. The crag is host to some of the best known climbs in the UK, put up by British rock climbing royalty, Johnny Dawes and The India face, repeated by only a handful of the elite, perhaps the most renowned. But with routes such as Great Slab/bow-shaped slab, suitable for us mere mortals, eptiomises the nature of this crag with a first ascent dating back to 1930, you can really appreciate the early draw this crag had and still has to those looking for an adventure.

Cheers
Chris
 JayK 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Parisella's Cave!
 Takacs 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
I would have to suggest on of the best routes I have ever done, and coincidently one of the hardest, most sustained routes I have done. This is the classic of cenotaph corner. Despite the long walk up to the top and the scramble to the base of the climb, there is an immediate sense of exposure before you have even put on your harness and started up the route. This route at nearly 40m is a beast, but an amazing setting for such a great route. The corner provides excellent moves on good rock and one of the best views I have seen in the pass. If this isn't enough, the intimidating left wall is directly (strangely enough) to its left, with big moves and good protection this is a pumpy classic (and the hardest route I have done) and both routes well worth the three stars! So dinas cromlech is the place to be! and if that isnt enough for you there is some bouldering at the bottom to finish off your day
 The Bad Cough 24 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Got to be Pembroke and more in particular Mother Carey's Kitchen. What a setting and great abseil approach. Stunning lines to climb on. Just Perfect.
 cheque 25 Aug 2011
Range West, Pembroke. Seclusion, dramatic cliffs, adventure and plenty of lines still to go!
 Matt Schwarz 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: I've recently come back from my fitst climbing trip to pembroke and I have to say it was the best few days climbing I've ever had! I think to narrow it down to craig caerfai, amazing rock, nice climbing and a brilliant sun trap!
 gali 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: The Fang at Tremadog, If ever a route was aptly named. Ace spot to belay under the fang.
 FinrodFelagund 25 Aug 2011
Craig y Forwyn (World's End). Off the beaten track, and has stunning views of the North Wales hills. The exposure makes you feel as though you're 200ft directly above the approach road.

Afterwards retire to nearby Llangollen for a dip in the River Dee and/or a pint or two in one of the many pubs.
 Klimb 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: I'm not sure what grade Piers climbs but hopefully he'd enjoy an easy classic. 'Main Wall' on Cyrn Las is continuously interesting with the airiest part at the top. Cyrn Las lies in peaceful Cwm Glas - away from the cars & crowds of the Llanberis Pass. The views from the route get wider & better as one climbs, giving a fantastic panorama. Main Wall feaures some of the best things Welsh climbing can offer - history, great rock, beautiful, high mountain views and a tranquil setting.
 StuLade 25 Aug 2011
I think you´re being a bit harsh on the guy for what will probably be his first day out climbing!? As he´s gonna get a great day out walking in some Welsh mountains (most likely North Wales) I think a climb by the sea would be great for the contrast and no better venue than Pembroke (a little biased with family from there). I´d reccomend somewhere in South Pembroke for the slightly larger scale cliffs, perhaps Bow Shaped Slab with 3 great easier routes to get started on.

Or perhaps if he´s feeling a bit more adventurous the more committing abseil and slightly more vertical classic Dieidre Sud on Mowing Word, which could be followed by Snozwanger if he´s going well, and if he´s psyched the spooky traverse of Heart of Drakness would be an amazing effort for a first timer!

Probably the main single route contender would be Blue Sky on Saddle Head, classic VS, not too tricky for a confident first timer, big abseil to the bottom, 2 good pitches in a beautiful setting. The nearby Sea Mist gets 3 stars in my book and is a cracking little route as well though the first couple of moves might be a bit off putting for a beginner.

Or just be done with it and get him on Preposterous Tales.
 tully1987 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
> We've teamed up with Visit Wales to give you the chance to win a pair of La Sportiva Katana Velcro rock shoes.
>
> Answer a simple question for a chance to win!
>
> Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3982
>
> Q. Where is the best climb in Wales and why?

Three clifs bay by far nice range of routes and not many places were u get to climb with britans best view
 1906johns 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: lotts grove
 amandaleeds 25 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
I've only ever climbed at Tremadog but quite fancy this snakes and ladders (and tunnels) traverse I've heard mentioned a few times which is at Dinorwig Slate Quarries. I like the sound of this route as it would feel like an adventure, much like the Camino Del Ray in El Chorro (although that wasn't really a climb as such).
In reply to UKC Articles: you can't class yourself a climber until you have climbed on the igneous rock of Llanberis pass. In particular on The Cracks (HS) on Dinas Mot. stunning rock, stunning views of the valley and the Cromlech, Grochan and Carreg Y Wastad and only a 10 minute walk from the Layby (assuming you have managed to find a place to park!)
 afshapes 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: well I think hope wins for me, pitch after pitch of lovely climbing that is accessible to anyone new to the sport or an old hand. What could possibly represent Welsh climbing than that perfect slab of Welsh cheese ?.
 RachelP 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: I think the slate quarries are the best place to climb (although doing so is a sensitive issue). I believe it to be the best place to climb because its quick to dry after the welsh rain (yes it is sometimes dry in Wales!) It has some corking routes both bolded and trad. The climbing is delecate balancy climbing. (although i believe there are some more thugish area's if thats more your style) Bella Lugosi is Dead (E1 5b and *) for trad route, and Clash of the Titans (F6a *)and Plastic Soldier (F6a **) for bolted (have to admit, i havent lead these hope to though) Theres loads more to go at - roll on the new state guide!
 RachelP 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Oh hang on, its not just North Wales. best climb Ive done in Pembroke is Dreamboat Annie...the rock down there is devine. Havent found a bad bit yet! Tough competition when there are so many amzing climbs to choose from...
 vbayliss 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: How about combining hill walk and climb with the mountaineering treat that is Cyfwry Arete?
 Hetley 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Cyfrwy Arete. It is an easy route which makes it accessible to all sorts of people. It is entertaining, as like many other mountain routes it involves lots of variation in the climbing and is atmospheric. It is also on the beautiful and perhaps underrated Cader Idris. This provides great views of part of the heart of wales, both geographically and sociologically. One can see rugged farm land, mines, the fertile coast, the innovations of the Centre for Alternative Technology...at least, when the weather is good.
 Jim Walton 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Piers,
You should head out to Craig Yr Ysfa. Nice long walk in to a remote part of North Wales. Beautiful views with no a car or road in sight. If you feel good you can climb Mur y Niwl (Possibly the best VS in Wales) or have a great romp up Amphitheatre Buttress. What ever the weather you'll get a feel for Wales and have a great day out.
 halo 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: This is one of those questions, were you have to hold your breath and pause for thought. It puts one in a predicament, firstly there are so many crags in Wales, secondly Wales has a beautiful coastline and furthermore has a beautiful national park for all to enjoy!

Which brings me to Snowdonia National Park, thousands of visitors each year descend on the Welsh countryside and why not it has everything from diving to walking and so many other pursuits one in particular is climbing , which brings me to probably the "best crag in the world" to quote Leo Houlding.

That crag of course is Clogwyn D'ur Arddu (Cloggy) to you and me.

It boasts over 200 climbs and has the longest running and probably the most talked about E9 in the country. If you have what it takes to climb this then it will always be etched into your mind. You have climbed the hardest E9 in the country.

Indian Face will always be synonymous with Welsh climbs, as will Llanberis always be synonymous with Cymru.

 Ben1983 26 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
For a really special day in Wales, especially for a beginner, you have to go for a long mountain day; long easy routes away from the crowds, lots of climbing, moving quickly. Superb!
'Warm up' day: Left Edge, VD on Carnedd Y Filiast. This gem of a climb, just down the valley from the antheap of Idwal, gives 600m of brilliant friction climbing in a little frequented Cwm. The climbing is interesting and exposed - but never taxing - right from the start, and you get the enjoyment of a proper day out, walking back over the fells and passing the Devil's Kitchen on the way back to the car.
Link-up Day: Slab Route on Clogwyn y Tarw plus Sub Cneifion Rib, plus Cneifion Arete. A genuinely big day out, around 350m of varied climbing on three crags progressively further up the mountains, topping out on the Glyders. If you've still not had enough, why not tick off a climb on the slabs on the way down?!
 Sl@te Head 27 Aug 2011
 Juan 27 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: I love RAC, great place to try a bit of bouldering, not to scary and hard, nice relaxed climbs, just watch out for the midges....
 Ewan Russell 27 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Ampitheatre buttess on craig Ysfa(I know it was sort of already mentioned). Your man+ the tv shots will get to see fantastic mountain views and it will be relatively quiet.
 Craig Geddes 28 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: I've got to say that, for a novice, there is no where more ideal and atmospheric than Idwall slabs. It's almost a cliché these days but it's a cliché for a damn good reason.
 stargazer85 28 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
The sea cliff of Wen Zawn; incredible rock, waves lapping (crashing) at your heels, seals being inquisitive and a fantastic sunset.
 Greenman28 28 Aug 2011
The East Face of Tryfan in the Ogwen valley has everything you need for a first experience of Welsh rock climbing...... A good warm-up approach within a dramatic Welsh upland landscape, climbing on solid volcanic rock with good friction, routes demanding a variety of climbing styles but still on relatively easy ground, and of course a top out right on the summit one of the most iconic peaks in Wales. This could be continued on to Glyder Fach taking in Bristly ridge if energy levels are still high, otherwise head down to the Vaynol for a pint of beer or head to the Gallt y glyn for said beer and a pizza too!
 AMJ098 28 Aug 2011
Tremadog. I did my first multi pitch there and it was absolutely amazing. Great views and long routes. Makes a good change from the short rotues I do in t'ilkely quarry!
 iwanap 28 Aug 2011
I must recommend Nirvana Wall in Cwm Silyn; it combines 2 of my favourite hobbies, climbing and gardening.
thinbennyboy 28 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Light House Arete, Sea Cliff climbing with out the super seriousness of Gogarth followed by Pizza and a Pint...romantic you know something for the Mrs
 robate 29 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
'I had this dream, see. I was falling upwards in a shaft of light'.

is a line from a book that ignores the practicalities of climbing in Wales and steps straight into the poetry of the place. Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia has been out of print for ages so it seems to be a collection of the best memories of generations of climbers. The experiences it holds though are up for anyone today. The quote itself is for a route called Pellagra on Craig Y Castell at Tremadog, which is a fine climb, but so as not to be tied to convention go for its neighbour, Craig Ddu Wall, which is without doubt the best route of its grade in Wales. The climb follows an elegant, exposed line which asks for poise in a beautiful place. The sun always shines in Southern Snowdonia and there are ghosts of eagles beside you.
In reply to UKC Articles: Cyfrwy by the Table Direct on Cader Idris, then to Aberystwyth for a "quiet" night out with the Uni Mountaineering Club!!
 Pete Bowen 29 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Why visit Wales? I'll tell you why, some of the best climbing in the world, thats why. Choosing one venue let alone one climb is hard enough. From sunny seaside slabs in Gower, sport limestone in North Wales, historical mountaineering routes in Snowdonia to, cutting edge slate testpieces, Wales leaves you spoilt for choice. My personal favourites are Pembroke, Tremadoc and the Llanberis Pass. Of these I would recommend the Llanberis Pass. It has such magnificent scenery, atmosphere and history. The routes are high above the road and river, the sounds of running water, the bleating of sheep and the chuff-chuff-chuffing of the the Snowdon mountain railway are a unique combination. If you are lucky enough you may even find some sweet bilberries on a quiet ledge to provide sustenance as you travel in the footsteps of the pioneers.
 sam820 29 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

He looks like he can handle himself fairly well. Get him on Cemetry Gates or even Left Wall at the Cromlech! Both peerless routes on the best crag in the UK.

These routes have an amazing atmosphere about them, both in an exhilarating position with the whole of the Llanberis Pass spread beneath you and Snowdon looming opposite. This crag and these routes are truly at the heart of Welsh climbing.
 uncontrollable 29 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Pretty impossible to select 'the one climb', but to give him an 'experience' send him up one of the routes on Tryfan East Face, fairly weatherproof plan, good exposure and you'll end up on a peak.

 Tim_C7 29 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

I will never forget my experience climbing Sub Cneifion Rib at Cwm Idwal. The climbing is beautiful, the view down the valley is stunning (especially in the sunshine) and the sight of an RAF fighter jet screaming round the bend in Ogwen valley below left me frozen mid-move. Peace, climbing and then jet engines. Sweet.
J_Salisbury 30 Aug 2011
Of my limited experience of climbing in Wales, my favourite crag discovered so far lies just inside Snowdonia national park. Craig y Moch (Tremadog) is a beautiful and highly varied chunk of sun drenched, south facing and finger loving dolerite.
This crag is home to “One step in the clouds” a 77 metre climb containing 4 pitches of VS perfection. One word of caution, make sure you follow the guide book carefully or you’ll soon find yourself ascending the brutal finger pockets of “Sultans of Swing” (E4). Once at the summit you can enjoy the stunning sunset over Cardigan Bay and the Irish Sea before descending the abseil escape to have a well deserved brew at Eric’s cafe.
It’s a perfect Welsh day and should be on every climber’s wish list.
Good climbing, peace.
 bec 31 Aug 2011
Blue Sky, VS 4b ***, Saddle Head, Pembrokeshire

A fantastic route in a beautiful location
 Dark Peak Paul 31 Aug 2011
OK, first things first, Piers and Emma are on holiday so let’s not kill the poor guys. Next thing, if you are a tourist, you have to do some tourist stuff. I know, totally an anathema to ‘real’ climbers but actually quite fun at times. So, Snowdon summit café it is. Sorry, but he’s on holiday in Wales and it has to be done. However, it should be done well.

Step 1: Park down in Llanberis and take the bus to PyP. Not only does this prove useful later but it also means you don’t have to get up early to get parked. Kick back; enjoy those B&B sausages.

Step 2: Join the milling throng on the Miners track. If nothing else, you get a taste of what you are about to escape.

Step 3: Pause at Llyn Llydaw, marvel at the looming bulwark of Lliwedd. Big breath, leave the tourists behind now, head off along the shore towards its malevolent mass. Lliwedd is also great territory for climbing in a three. No reason why Emma shouldn’t join in the fun.

Step 4: Pick your route while you can still see the crag for the rocks, as it were. If Piers and Emma have done a bit of this sort of thing before, then why not head for Paradise (HS). 100m of proper climbing, 100m of easier stuff leading to the Great Picnic Site and then, after lunch maybe, finish off up the classic Terminal Arete, named hopefully for its position, not its disposition.

For the less adapt but equally adventurous, the nearby Slanting Buttress provides a Diff of over 200m, steeped in history and first climbed by the Abraham bothers in 1904. Either way, we find ourselves on or near the summit of LLiwedd.

Step 5: Head over Bwlch y Saethau and on up to the new visitor centre for a well earned beer or two. Of course, as we are crossing the ‘Pass of the Arrows’, the conversation will doubtless turn to King Arthur and then to other great Welsh legends to pass the time as we plod up the scree.

Step 6: Well, having looked at the posters and taken in the view, it is now time to descend. Of course, having had the aforementioned beer, it may well be seen as irresponsible to proceed on foot. But all is not lost; as long as it is not too busy there should be standby tickets available on the mountain railway. Make like the tourists you are, let the train take the strain and just enjoy the views and the ambience all the way back to the car.
DynoDave 31 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Climbing in the Clwyd limestone area.

From Trevor to Dinbren, Dinbren to Pinfold, Pinfold to Twilight, Twilight to Craig Arthur, Craig Arthur to Worlds End - lets face it they are all close enough togeather - it depends on how you feel on the day as to which you go to!

There is so many interesting climbs in the area and the views are truely amazing. There is nothing better than being half way up a route with then sun setting behind you and looking accross to the ruins of Castell Dinas.

Easy Access, Good variety, Nice pubs, not over run by tourists and a real taste of wales!
Tomfurey 31 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Main Wall curn las. a true classic climb with a beautiful mix of technical climbing and tradition tecniques =) a must climb!!
In reply to UKC Articles:
I don't know where the best climb in Wales is, but I really would like to win a pair of Katana's.
 anomm 01 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Cenotaph Corner, in the Llanberis Pass. truly beautiful climb
 antdav 01 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Groove Arete, a low grade climb that most people will be able to get up, great scenery and finish it off at Adam and Eve. A full day out on one route.
richardhughes 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

One of the best climbs has to be "Main Wall" in Llanberis pass. This one is in classic rock and know I know why. It was so good I returned two weekends later ( from the south) and did it again.

The climb is so atmospheric - espcially with the moves left from the pulpit.

do it ...
 sam@work 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: blue sky @ pembroke
or

seams the same @ llanberis slate
Removed User 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: If your a novice climber, but are fit you be hard to do better than Bow Shaped Slab *** a spectacular setting, a magnificient climb with a real sence of achievement when completed.
 DanHB 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'm just guessing that he's not already a climber?

For some easy going sea coast action take him to Saddle head in Pembroke - not so mad it would freak him out and if the tide's in you've got a great atmosphere with waves crashing safely below the platform!

Or, for something inland head to the Llanberis pass and try a route that's little more testing - get him to second up the AWESOME corner of Sabre Cut...... bit of exposure and a FANTASTIC location!!

Good luck to you Piers!!
 Andrew_ing 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: East Ridge @ Great Tor
 jayrenegade 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
Lockwoods Chimney, absolute classic hidden gem. Not the most exciting climb I've ever done, but a fantastic little find.
 Ouncepounce 02 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: Piers should star his Welsh trip up at llyn idwal with a historical classic such as Hope followed by the wobbly way off..a frightner for the novice, though a great tale to tell especially if North Wales lives up to it's usual fickle wet weather reputation.
Removed User 02 Sep 2011
Top 3:
A Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
The Chasm Face Glyder Fach
 partz 02 Sep 2011
I think Piers should focus around Llanberis for climbing. Off belay its a great place to relax and chat to locals about their climbing experiances and reccomendations, and its very central to the best climbing crags in Wales.
In terms of crags, its bloody hard to pick a favourite! The great orme in Llandudno is a fantastic day out with such a variety of styles of Trad sport and bouldering, it can amuse absolutley anyone and is also a nice friendly town to go and have a drink in afterwards (nice pub in the evening at the end of the pier by the way)
Im going to say LLandudno - theres more to it than meets the eye
kd123 02 Sep 2011
Has to be the Aber Falls circuit, due to the variety. Perfect for a summer walk, alternatively great for a training route. Perfect all year round. As tame or as wild as you like. Short or as long as you please. As flat or as narly as you wish. Work out the legs, or practice the chicken wing. This place is one of the best training grounds on the planet.Have walked around with the outlaws, and scrambled with the folks north of the border, all appreciated the experience and architecture or such a fantastic place. Great views on the walk-in, and plenty of eye candy on the way out.
Rammers 03 Sep 2011
The best climb in Wales (for Piers - I would suggest) is the full Gogarth traverse. He's used to pool-side holidays and assuming he's a beginner, he'll be happy to jump into the water when the moves become too challenging. But with this tailored approach to his needs, Piers will also get to experience some of Wales' finest rock, see some of its greatest and most famous lines and meet some pretty interesting wildlife too (the guide even shows Streaky rubbered up down there). Not only this but he'll see Welsh cliffs that only a select elite will have had the opportunity to explore... actually, on second thoughts. Scratch this suggestion, let's keep it a secret after-all shall we?
 Targets 03 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Go to Llanberis Pass, stay at Gorphwysfa Hotel. Take a hike in the beautiful surroundings. Then climb the backbone route Cenotaph Corner a right of passage for any new, aspiring, amateur or professional climber (just watch out when its wet!).
 iceaxejuggler 05 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=24656 should make for a memorable experience.
 Tommyads 05 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Dinas Rock

Unsure of the best climb because I have have only done the bouldering there, but the location is fantastic with some of the best looking lines I have seen. Lots of nearby waterfalls to see too.

 Dane 06 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

My most memorable climbing experience was at Gogarth a few years back.

I made the long journey up from London only to be greeted by rain rain and more rain.

However, the magic of Gogarth prevailled and we emerged from the rain to find sunshine and the sound of lazy waves as we arrived at Gogarth. This lasted the entire weekend - rain inland, sun at Gogarth.

Needless to say, this coupled with great routes above the sea, made the trip up from the big smoke was well worth it.

Gogarth, definitely Gogarth!
 Guy Conlon 06 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Best Climb? Well there are many great climbs all round Wales, but the best 'A Dream Of White Horses,' a UK classic. This climb is in Gogarth North Stack in Anglesey. As well as climbing you may get the change to see some great seabirds and the famous Puffin! If not, enjoy the climb and the view from the route.
Jules Mera Peak 06 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

i would suggest the lesser known venue of Pavilland Bay.. big, grippy, seacliffes of limestone !
 bec 06 Sep 2011
Osiris VS 4c *** Fall Bay, Gower
Just the right amount of exposure and difficulty. A stunning location.
 dionhughes 08 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: There's nothing better than topping-out on the crags of Tremadog. It is an amazing venue for climbing good classic routes and hard routes. Then a coffee and cake at Erics Cafe, and a chance to meet the legend that is Eric Jones, happoy days.

If he hasn't ever climbed before, then a great "seconding" experience in my humble opinion would be these three classics, and all with varied climbing, any could be done in half a day, allowing time to move on to the Pass to do an extra classic.


Recommended routes are,

Craig Y Castell:

Craig Dhu Wall HS 4b - one of my favorite climbs, especially the foot and hand traverses.

Craig Bwlch Y Moch:

"One Step in the Clouds VC 4c" the second pitch is awesome with exposure as your stepping onto teh slab face from the corner exposure, highly exciting.

"Christmas Curry w/ Micah Finish HS " - Oh the final arete, aboslute heaven to climb.

So there goes have a great holiday!
 Calder 19 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

For the real 'Welsh Wales' climbing experience, you have to visit Simdde Du (in the Meirionydd guide). There'll be no-one else there, the guidebook approach time is a great stinking lie, and you'll encounter bog and heather and steep hillside. But when you finally reach the crag you'll see it is well worth the effort for the amazing rough rock and the wonderfully exposed position high above the tarn

And there's some brilliant routes to go at. Most notably Emperor's New Toes, Gyllion and Madryn.

Enjoy!
 Calder 19 Sep 2011
In reply to Calder:

Only two weeks late! Typical me.
 lucyblake 26 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
Brambell Buttress (VDiff) on Craig Y Gesail (tremadog)
Stunning easy climb which has all the beautiful views of Tremadog and the feel of coming out through the trees. Don't want to scare them on their holiday. Alternatively wandering primrose (S) on Holyhead mountain is really overlooked as a lovely place for beginners to climb all the sea views and none of the dropping of gear into the sea.
 Dark Peak Paul 30 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Well, it's the end of September, so who's choice didn't Piers climb?
 James Oswald 29 Oct 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
Rap on Castle Helen for a taste of Gogarth (well kind of). Crackstone Rib is very good too on Dinas Mot when it's dry. And if one is after some lovely sustained delicate bridging then first slip at Tremadog is amazing!

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