UKC

'Eye to Eye' and other rare climbing footage

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Jonno 08 Jan 2007
I've been loaned a DVD put together by the son of one of the veterans. Stuff I've never seen before although others might be familiar with some of it.
One 30 minutes programme is called 'Eye to Eye'..'Climbing' and looks circa mid 50's..B&W s of course with an interview with Wynthrop Young at the PyG and one of the Abraham Brothers. Amazing footage of Joe Brown climbing 'Sloth' in winter conditions with the whole crag covered in deep snow then we see JB on Cloggy doing Eastern Gully Wall I think ?.
Young Harold Drasdo hitching into Wales.
More footage after EtE features JB climbing 'Primate' at Gogarth with Pete Crew and Crew being interviwed and saying..'Yes it was always my ambition to burn off Joe and for a while I thought I had'. Tom Patey is featured and Ian McNaught Davis,

All good stuff and I'm looking forward to catching the rest if I get the chance tonight.
Allan McDonald 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: Can you possibly do a copy of it for me ????
Ian Hill 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:

can you not get in touch with one of the video companies and get them to do a release of this, it'd sell more than E11..
 willhunt 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: I want.
sam the man 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: I would love a copy of that.
Sam
 sutty 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:

Sounds like you have some old BBC stuff there, keep a copy on your machine for posterity, and friends to see.
Bag 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:
Any chance of it being released to the public? It sounds like the most interesting climbing film for years.
Jonno 08 Jan 2007

There's about 6 or 7 different films and I've only seen about three so far. I'll let the RT community know what else turns up.

I'll investigate the possibility of copies but despite owning a DVD recorder I haven't figured out how to use it yet !
 dominic_s 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: i'd offer to sleep with you for less! particularly if you have joe brown abseiling off sea cliffs to go fishing...
rginns 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: I'd love a copy if you work out how to burn one! I'll pay postage and dvd costs etc!!
Bag 08 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:
The picture of Joe Brown in the bottom left of the 2nd photo is familiar. It was part of one episode of "The Climbers", a BBC (I think) series from the early '90s.
Joe was talking about his attitude to risk, & how he'd had a few close shaves "any one of which could have been fatal", and some great footage of him soloing what looks like PMC1 at Curbar.
 Russell Lovett 09 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: If you ever do make copys would also be interested in purchasing one from you, email me if you ever do i would be willing to pay for your time, costs and post.
 eppa 09 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: lots of people interested (me too!), maybe you could rip a copy to AVI or something. I can host it online for a while for people to download.
rginns 09 Jan 2007
In reply to eppa: If you do get to host it,could you let me know where would I download it from? Thank you!
 Russell Lovett 09 Jan 2007
In reply to eppa: if you do host is could you let me know where as well
Bag 09 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:
Did you get the chance to see the rest tonight? Any interesting stuff to tell?
Jonno 10 Jan 2007
Now had the chance to see all of the footage on this rare DVD which dropped into my lap...as follows.

'Eye to Eye' appears to be a BBC North programme as described above and narrated by Jack Longland. As it shows Rusty Westmorland climbing Napes Needle at 71 and as Rusty was born in 1886 then the film must be 1957. (B&W)

'The Roaches' A Chris Brasher film about Joe Brown which includes,as mentioned above,an ascent of Sloth in winter conditions. circa late 50's I would say (B&W)

'The Cave of the Assassins' Another Joe Brown feature. Part of a late 50's early 60's David Attenborough produced programme called 'Adventure'.
A bit of an Indiana Jones feature this. Archeologists hire Joe to climb up sheer crumbling cliffs in what was then Persia to reach caves which they believe contain relics. 'The Assassins apparently were a Persian tribe who waged a guerilla war against the Mongols.
Amazing climbing from Joe up crumbling sandstone cliffs in which he seems to climb forever up cack without protection ! Yes they do find relics.(B&W)

'Petra' As above. This time the Indiana crew send Joe scrampering all over the ancient ruins of Petra poking around in tombs and caves.(B&W)

'Joe Brown..portrait of a mountaineer' As mentioned above featuring Pete Crew but climbing 'Climate' not 'Primate' as I said. narrated and interviews carried out by Ian McNaught Davis.Mid 60's I would say (Colour)

'Old Man of Stoer) Looks like a BBC Scotland programme from the late 70's . Joe and Dave Bathgate put up a new direct line on TOMOS with two lasses , Dot Woods and Cathy Grindly climbing like normal route. Lots of Fulmer yockering and desperate climbing..'If yer can't jam yerll find this very ard' JB to DB 'I can't !' DB to JB.
Highlight has to be Dave Bathgate totally shagged out on a 350' Tyrolean traverse from the top of the stack to the cliff ! (colour)

'The old man of Hoy' A mid 60's BBC broadcast and the only one I've seen before. A cast of thousands...well..JB, Hamish Mac, Martin Boysen'Tom Patey, Chris Bonington, Ian Mac. I'm sure even Mo Anthoine is in there somewhere ? (B&W)

All good stuff indeed.
rginns 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: This sounds fantastic, really eager to see it! let me know if you make any progress on the copying! I can pay material / time costs etc, cheers
OP Anonymous 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:

is there any product identification on the DVD or is it a personal compilation?
OP Anonymous 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:

I can date the Old Man film to the mid 70s as I watched it while at college
Jonno 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

Looks like a personal compilation but I don't know where they sourced the material.
Jonno 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Jonno)
>
> I can date the Old Man film to the mid 70s as I watched it while at college

1965 according to the BBC archives.
Sharket 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:

Hey sounds great, add me to the list if you manage to copy it!!

Or maybe we should in fact talk to said son of veterans and ask him to publish it properly, then at least some of the proceeds go to the right place...
 Doug 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Anonymous: there have been 2 BBC outside broadcasts from the Old Man, the first involving Patey, Brown, Bonnington, Haston & others (60s), the second with Murray Hamilton & others (Zoe Brown maybe ?) in the late 70s/early 80s
Clauso 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:

Jonno, this would make excellent viewing... Might you investigate the possibility of making the thing available as a BitTorrent for download?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BitTorrent

I get the impression that you're still struggling to operate your crystal set, so maybe you could collar a likely-looking yoof to assess the feasibility?
 Norrie Muir 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno:
> (In reply to Anonymous)
> [...]
>
> 1965 according to the BBC archives.

They have got it wrong. It was July 1967, I had spent a week on Skye climbing, and when I got home the Old Man of Hoy was live on the TV.
OP Anonymous 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Doug:

yes, it was the later one I meant, not the 60s B/W one.

It was live, broadcast at intervals through the day

Wasn't there also an abortive one (weather problems) in winter with Royal Marines etc from Fort William intended for the Ben?
 Norrie Muir 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Doug)
>
> Wasn't there also an abortive one (weather problems) in winter with Royal Marines etc from Fort William intended for the Ben?

Sort of, Cubby and Murray Hamilton were involved, in 80 0r 81. One of the routes to be climbed was Psychedelic Wall.
Censored at Work 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: You've got mail...
Jonno 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Censored at Work:
> (In reply to Jonno) You've got mail...

You mean the szmalzy film starring Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks...no it's nothing like that.
Censored at Work 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Jonno: Thanks for clearing that one up, I was really confused. So is the Hanks movie any good?
 Russell Lovett 10 Jan 2007
In reply to Doug: i watched the second one it was a live broadcast and it was in 1984 (summer) it had joe doing a route with his daughter zoe in it.
 Russell Lovett 10 Jan 2007
In reply to russty: the date is defo 1984 as it was the year i moved to newcastle so thats how i remember the date so well.
Jonno 10 Jan 2007

Re the copy situation. A lot of interest both on the forum and through PM's. It might be a while but I'll announce something here if we can get it togther.

Watch this space.


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