UKC

8a routes with a dyno crux

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 andy healey 18 Sep 2023

So far my list starts and ends with Salar. Are there any others out there?

Bonus points if they're short, aka not pumpy, and UK based

 rustaldo 18 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lulworth-259/adrenochrome-14971

Don't know if it's the crux.. but there's a dyno involved

 JLS 18 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

Strictly speaking, it’s 8a+ and not soft at the grade so might be a bit too hard if 8a is the the absolute max, but it is short, fierce and has a dyno crux…

Spitfire (8a+)

https://youtu.be/gKY9vARJWAQ?si=NyrMq6Xf9XsM8vrt

Post edited at 16:25
 Climber_Bill 18 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

Not UK based, but very short and not pumpy in the slightest;

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_loup-3292/situation_expl...

CB.

In reply to andy healey:

The original way of doing ‘a day called zero’ at cheddar is a massive dyno. 

 petegunn 18 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

What about the trad route "The Devil's in the Detail" at Black Rocks gets english 7a so makes it about f8a and its reasonably safe!

youtube.com/watch?v=tEvF61olDks&

Abroad but has to be "Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels" 

Post edited at 18:06
In reply to andy healey:

I know it's only 7c+ but The Lockless Monster can be done with a dyno. You end up skipping the 3rd bolt if you do it this way which is quite exciting if you miss the dyno. It's still safe but you need your belayer to have their wits about them.

 remus Global Crag Moderator 18 Sep 2023
In reply to rustaldo:

> Don't know if it's the crux.. but there's a dyno involved

Maybe the crux if you're not very good at dynos but most people fall off the top because they're pumped. It's definitely a high quality Dyno though!

Post edited at 18:45
OP andy healey 18 Sep 2023
In reply to all:

Every one of these is awesome! Keep them coming...

Loskot is the dream route, though maybe a tad pumpy...

An 8a version of Rich Bitch (7a) would be bob on

 olliee 18 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

Dynomite (8a)

clues in the name with this one!  not been on it but it looks cool...

 scott titt 19 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

Here's another at 8a+, Variante Robin (8a+)

OP andy healey 19 Sep 2023
In reply to UKB Shark:

How does Rumble break down up to the dyno?

 UKB Shark 19 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

I did have it as a project once but my recollection isn’t great as it was about 15 years ago but not easy as I never got as far as the dyno finish on redpoint

OP andy healey 19 Sep 2023
In reply to UKB Shark:

> I did have it as a project once but my recollection isn’t great as it was about 15 years ago but not easy as I never got as far as the dyno finish on redpoint

I think that tells us everything we need to know!

 E.church 20 Sep 2023
In reply to andy healey:

It’s probably still a power endurancy 7c+/8a to the dyno. The dyno is a mental obstacle but not too bad once you commit. It is easy to fluff it between there and the chains though. 
An easier contender could be the angler, 7c at rubicon? Not a proper dyno but a huge dead point to a good edge if you don’t use the mono. 

 AlistairB 20 Sep 2023
In reply to E.church:

From memory, the final couple of redpoints before I did Rumble in the Jungle (8a+), I fell off the dyno, I would say it's the redpoint crux. The traverse (and clip at the end!) to get to the dyno are hard, so whilst the dyno is fairly simple in isolation, doing it Rumble in the Jungle (8a+)on the link is significantly harder. I never fell above the dyno on redpoint but I can see how you could.

It's a mega route though, highly recommended. The dyno is wild, and very unusual for UK limestone.  The video of Ethan Walker climbing it (starts at 6 mins) never fails to get me psyched: https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/sport_climbing/wcj_-_a_few_hid...


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