UKC

Hey hey! Some mates and I are keen to find a bothy with good access to climbing near it - ideally stuff in the VS-E2 range! We don’t have a car - so ideally stuff that is accessible with public transport and a bit of hitching! We’re Edinburgh based, so eastern highlands is a bit easier for us, but happy to travel further!
 

looking forward to hearing what yous reccomend!

Hutchison Memorial Hut for Creagan a Coire Etchachan

Glas Allt Shiel for the Dubh Loch

Hutchison Hut is the first one that springs to mind. Definitely good climbing at those grades on  Ben Macdui - Creagan a' Choire Etchachan but maybe a bit of a mission to get there by public transport. 

There aren't actually that many bothies with good  rock climbing nearby.

Most obvious in the east is the Hutchison hut in Coire Etchachan, quick access to Creag a' Choire Etchachan & not far from the crags at the head of Loch Avon or Stob Coire Sputan Dearg

Carnmore but it's a shithole.

Hutchison Hut is handy for Creagan a' Choire Etchachan, lots of good routes in your grade range but not the easiest place to get to without a car.

Once you're outside the shooting season Carnmore is an obvious choice, buses to Poolewe.

More esoterically there's Backhill of Bush in Galloway, with VS - HVS routes on Dungeon Hill pretty close. Would need some hitching. 

Strabeg for Craig Shomhairle but not sure how you'd get there by public transport. Likewise some of those on Skye and Lewis or Rackwick Bay on Hoy.

Backhill of Bush might work for some of the Galloway crags. Beinn a' Bhuird can be accessed from Faindouran. It's a bit of a hike but it's a bit of a hike from anywhere.

Have the issues with drunken party types there been resolved these days? It really put me off doing some bothying in the Galloway hills.

Strathchailleach for Sandwood Bay and Am Buchaille.

Kearvaig for various things around Cape Wrath. Bizarrely accessible by public transport!

I know there was a problem at Tunskeen not long ago, not sure about Backhill.

I also heard there were issues at White Laggan but it was a while back. Neds driving in on the forestry tracks, not actual hillgoers.

I know there've been cases of people having gear nicked in both places. I guess it depends on whether the gates on the forestry roads are kept locked.

Train to Penrith, bus to Honistor Pass via Keswick. Stay in Dubs Hut on Fleetwith Pike, climb on Gable. (A preceding dry spell recommended.) 

They tend to be pretty grim.  I'd take a tent and camp somewhere nice near the crags, which also opens up endless possibilities.

There are some brilliant bothies as well as a few grim ones.

I called in at Backhill two years ago. It was a shithole, but I got a takeway can of beer.

I felt quite at home.

Long May Carnmore remain a shite hole, if not it would be like Sheneval and drawing in hordes.

Rackwick bay. Maybe not the easiest to get to from Edinburgh though!

Don't think anyone's mentioned Peanmeanach. I've not been, but it sounds like the best way to access the various crags scattered around that peninsula, and there is a railway station relatively nearby.

Peanmenach is no longer an open Bothy, it was getting heavily used (and surrounding area abused) prior to the Bothy Bible round of promotion……which further increased pressure, and finally the owner withdrew it from the MBA, it is now locked but available for private hire part of the year.

A shame since it was a nice way of doing some remote cragging, in a fine setting. None of the crags are brilliant but with the bothy it made for a good overall experience.

Anyone know if Gelder Shiel Bothy at Lochnagar is open to the public? I read that it was closed by the estate during lockdowns because of anti-social behaviour. 
 

Hopefully this doubles up as a suggestion to original question too-not quite vs-e2 but eagle ridge is s****

Was up there yesterday (Wed 23 Aug) and can confirm it is open.

Thank you so much for all your suggestions! Been off signal for a few days. Will have a proper look at them all now

Shelter Stone, Loch A'an. Not the prettiest but in an excellent position to access classics in that grade range.  There are smaller howffs around which will provide shelter for two but they are more of a squeeze.  Think being unable to sit upright! Would be worth taking a tarp to potentially provide a bit more living (moving) space.

Easy transport with train links to Aviemore and bus to ski centre.

Take plastic food boxes or the mice will be helping themselves!

Cheers for the advice all - we had 5 wonderful days at Hutchies! Good bothy with great climbing! Midges were on the grim side though!!!