UKC

Hello folks.

I fancy doing Bow Wall or Ghost in a few weeks, got a couple of questions about them.

Is there anyone out there who can tell me which is A: the harder of the two and B: the better, subjective I know?

I know Ghost is harder on paper, but I've read that Bow Wall is pretty damned tough and that Ghost maybe only gets E3 because it's a bit run-out on the traverse and sh*t scary albeit safe. Given that I'm likely to be rather scared on either of them, I'm more interested in their relative technicalities.

Also, as far as Bow Wall is concerned, I'm a bit confused by the differing descriptions of the route in SWClimbs, CC and Hard Rock. Can anyone enlighten me as to the best best way to pitch it; linked pitches? Which then is the hardest/longest pitch etc?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

In reply to Southern Man:

I remember Bow Wall like it was yesterday mate. We climbed it as per the CC guide and the descriptions were perfect. Don't try and link the pitches though - jst do it with someone of equal ability and enjoy it as a three pitch classic. I led pitch 2 which was amazing. I won't give you any beta though!
I haven't done The Ghost. I 'know' I can do it, but I'm just intimidated. I've done dozens of bold E2's but the Ghost just gives me that little bit of doubt....
Post on here and let us know how you get on if you choose The Ghost.

In reply to FedUp:

Lovely thanks for the advice - sounds (and looks) like an outstanding route.

Probably go for Bow Wall to be honest, but I'll let you know how we get on if we opt for the latter. I think I feel the same way about The Ghost as you do.

Cheers,
Tom

In reply to Southern Man:

I did them a couple of years apart but I would say Ghost was harder. Intimidating, greasy and tricky rope work on the crux traverse.

I did Thick Wall Special, Kafoozalem and Phantom the same day and Ghost made the biggest impression.


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Thanks for that advice Chris.

That's one hell of a day out!

Cheers,
Tom

In reply to Southern Man:

Indeed, there was only me and Sherri, so I did Thick Wall, abbed off to strip it then soloed round for the gear. Led Sherri up to the pinnacle stance on Suicide Wall, led The Ghost, abbed for the gear. Led Phantom, (ran the top two pitches into one) got the belays from Ghost, abbed for the gear. Rescued Sherri. Walked round and got the belays. Did Kafoozalem, abbed for the gear, walked round for the belays - went to the pub!

Great days.

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Good work.

Hope you bought Sherri the drinks!

In reply to Southern Man:

Did both about a day apart a few years ago. Bow wall might be slightly more technical but is infinately less run out (read worrying!). Bow wall is over very quickly with just a couple of steep, tricky to work out moves. The Ghost is however an altogether more intense affair.

In reply to Southern Man: Havent done the ghost so cant compare, but bow wall is an amazing route. Thoroughly enjoyed it and would definitely recommend it.

In reply to Southern Man:
Bow Wall first as per CC guide; if it goes OK get on Ghost.
As a matter of interest, a guy on the recent BMC International Meet climbed Bow Wall in one run-out with 3 bits of gear!

In reply to Iain Peters:

Jesus, 1 per pitch!

Thanks for the advice everyone.
Tom

In reply to Southern Man:

Bow Wall is short and brutal, safe as houses though, Ghost more sustained and you could hurt yourself coming off on the traverse, big pendule potential.
I am planning to get on Bow Wall again, and would do it in one run out, scrambling up the first easy bit to belay. Probably safer as plenty of rope out to absorb a fall from the crux...

In reply to Southern Man:

Ghost is harder.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I would say that Ghost is harder in the sense of a more demanding lead overall, however Bow Wall has harder moves, so yes, Ghost is harder!.

In reply to all:

Is The Ghost pumpy? If so I'll never do it!

In reply to Southern Man:
Hi Tom,
Agree with what folks have said above, but just a bit of extra insite to the climbing for you... I have soloed both routes and Ghost felt the most sketchy of the two, but without giving to much away...it was easier knowing what to go for...some blind holds.
Mark

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Chris, can you clone me a copy of Sherri please.

In reply to M. Edwards:

That would be "insight" of course

In reply to Southern Man:

If you don't like getting attacked by the Seagulls on the pedestal, you can start Bow Wall up Thin Wall Special, then continue after TWS P1 ends up the same vein to the end of Bow Wall P1 or a hanging stance to the R of it. Then with Bow Wall this makes three amazing 5b pitches. Bow Wall Special?

Having said that, BW P1 regular is also amazing.

The Ghost is psychologically taxing. You don't need to be solid at E3, you need to be able to do 5b in your sleep.

In reply to jonny2vests:

Or...just follow the vein straight over the roof (The Marksman)! Bit harder I know, but has to be one of the most amazing natural lines at Bosi'.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Yeah. I take it you've done it Mark? Good photo of it in the guide.

In reply to jonny2vests:

Yeah, have been up it. Egbert (the photographer of the guide shots) told me Sven Scholz said it was the most obvious line on Bosigran when viewed from Commando Ridge. I think I agree too.

In reply to M. Edwards:

Think you'll ever run out of Mark names, Mark?

In reply to JTM:
Hi Jon,

I bet some folks wish I did!

In reply to Southern Man:

For Bow Wall I'd make sure you suss out the route from the ground. I went up thinking I'd figure it out as I went along but got really confused and spent about 90mins on main pitch before aborting. Not a good plan. We had the Littlejohn SW Climbs tho which has poor topos.

In reply to JTM:

Should have guessed it was one of yours. Silly me.

In reply to Owen W-G:

The West Cornwall cant be much better, the drawing is massively confusing, especially towards the seaward end. Looking forward to the new guide and a photo, hopefully I'll finally be able to suss out where String of Pearls goes.

In reply to Southern Man: Back in the depths of the eighties I lost the toss and my mate got Bow and I got Ghost. I led Ghost in a strop and with a heavily bleeding digit (very greasy!). It didn't feel as hard as seconding Bow later in the day but it is sketchier and bolder as others have suggested.