UKC

Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area)
Idleburger Buttress (VD)
Floating Voter (VS 4c)
Jasper (HVS 5b)

The University if Bristol expeditions society will be using the above three routes on the 30th of September and the 1st of October to introduce freshers to outdoor climbing, we expect it to be be in use all day on both days.
Aopolgies for any inconvenience caused

In reply to AWalker96:

>

we expect it to be be in use all day on both days.

Can you please clarify that part of your post?

In reply to AWalker96:

Maybe avoid Jasper - it is extremely polished and probably not suitable for beginners. I suspect it would put people off rather than attract!

In reply to AWalker96:

On the one hand, you've chosen three 1* routes that are unlikely to be in high demand. That seems sensible to me (even if I would hate to be 'introduced to climbing' at Avon...)

On the other hand, you should consider taking a more accommodating stance than simply "we expect it to be in use all day on both days". Irrespective of whether the routes are 1* or über classics, I don't think it's kosher to just appropriate a section of crag for an entire weekend.

Odds are no-one will be inconvenienced by your choice of routes, but on the off-chance that someone wants to lead one of these routes, I think you should be willing to offer them the chance.

In reply to alexm198:

I agree with Alex, similar posts were made last year in a similar tone and didn't get a good reception.

I think it was Sheffield uni that that made a very accommodating post saying something along the lines of them giving space for others if wanted etc.

To expect people to move over or adjust their schedule for you because you're a big club won't get said club any brownie points.

People don't forget easily. (We all still remember the Cambridge coach at stanage incident)

In reply to AWalker96:

No sorry me and some mates have those routes booked already on those dates you'll have to go elsewhere

In reply to Cheese Monkey:


Funny boy, we habe them booked all day as well. See our post from groundhog day climbing group

In reply to Lion Bakes:

29th September and a tub of vaseline....... Ah, this might not make so much difference to the well loved Lime.
Hopefully it was just a badly phrased post (or a troll with a vendetta) and the uni group turns out to be a charming and polite congregation of fellows.
I'll never know in person as I am not local, stay safe ya all.

In reply to Kevster:




Eh, WTF are you on about?

In reply to AWalker96:
Gah ignore people getting their knickers in a twist. You've chosen routes which are regularly used by commercial groups who give no public warning. Some people will always whinge. There's only several hundred other routes to have a crack at in the gorge...

In reply to Lion Bakes:

Like your post, a light hearted comment.

In reply to GHawksworth:


This sounds interesting, what happened?

In reply to eschaton:


I believe it was accused of parking in the parking area. Outrageous.

In reply to beardy mike:


This entirely. They are basically burner routes set aside for group top roping. I can't imagine anyone is going to notice...let alone be put out.

Although if you do manage to get anyone hooked based on those routes, they have a very promising future!

In reply to Kemics:

Haters gunna hate - and all because he's not written like Shakespeare . Those route are literally the worst routes in the gorge - you hardly ever see anyone on them other than paying parties!

In reply to Run_Ross_Run:

So OP most probably Troll then.

In reply to Run_Ross_Run:

Why would he be a troll? He's simply informing people that there will be a university group there for a couple of days so that if you have a problem with crowds then you can go elsewhere - I'm really not sure why people find that offensive? If he didn't and you turned up to find the routes occupied would you whinge that h hadn't told anybody? Would you rather he used better routes across the gorge that people are more likely to be cross about? There's simply not that many places at Avon where you could take a freshers group without causing greater inconvenience.

In reply to AWalker96:

and here's the right way to do it:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=671481

In reply to Rob Morgan:


I always thought that was the general idea of a Freshers' Meet, Rob - assuming, of course, that they've already been relieved of their subscriptions!

In reply to AWalker96:

Assume someone else isn't on the route first :P~~

In reply to AWalker96:

It now appears Bristol Uni is also using the same spot this weekend as well although this time it's the Mountaineering club. Next up UWE? I have to say I'm not hugely bothered and it's good to see clubs getting outside locally, but I imagine other trad beginners might be a bit miffed.

In reply to AWalker96:

Seriously, why on earth are you contemplating putting beginners onto an HVS 5a?

In reply to Trangia: because some beginners climb 5a first day out.

Also on uni beginners meets not all the beginners are beginners.

In reply to Trangia:


If you are top roping it and your are willing to dangle on the rope it might not be too hard for someone who has done some climbing.

In reply to springfall2008:


Hmm... obviously is too hard.

And they'll have shit footwork (just trust me on this one).

And they'll learn to flail - if they don't flail already. On limestone, flailing = peddling = polishing.

Imho Trangia's right. (No surprises there then.)

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

I thought this too but I'm not sure it's possible to polish that route any further. It feels like climbing a mirror.

In reply to Rob Morgan:

Is it even worse than daydream?

In reply to davidbeynon:

Yes. It was lik a mirror when I arrived in Bath in 1996 and it's not got better.

In reply to beardy mike:

Bloody hell!

BTW the time you sent me up daydream put me off climbing in the gorge for the next 5 years!

In reply to davidbeynon:

You're welcome.

In reply to beardy mike:
Perhaps they're the worst routes in the gorge - because they get trashed by groups like this!

In reply to helix:

Given that it is a city centre limestone crag it is remarkable that anything is still climbable at all. Under the circumstances sacrificing a couple of the crapper single pitch routes to group use is probably the best you can hope for.

In reply to Run_Ross_Run:
Hi, sorry for the late reply, we'd like to be using the routes described between 8 and 5 on the 30th and the 1st, I'd like to apologise for the tone this was posted in, since it caused so much offence, that wasn't my intention, and I'd like to do my best to accommodate anyone who would like to go climbing there this weekend. However I would really appreciate if you would give us some leeway considering as others have said they are burner routes set up for this kind of thing. UBES does adhere to the ethics of moving top ropes out of the way for lead climbers, but there will be a large volume of people int the area.