UKC

Burglar in my bedroom - Bell Hagg

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Iggy_B 27 Jan 2005
Has anyone done it? Looks like quite a nice little route!
Hotbad Peteel 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Iggy_B:

is thaqt the diff or the e5? The diff is nice but loads of rope drag unless you think carefully or solo the bloody thing. Don't know about the e5. Low enough to be a boulder problem though but check the topout for dog poo or dogs or broken glass etc
Pete
 Marcus B 27 Jan 2005
Thats the E5.
Please dont do it, the more we dont go to bell hag the more it will get overgrown so we can all forget about its being there!
Hotbad Peteel 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Marcus Brewer:

bell haggs one of the best training venues around. Proper rough grit like you don't get in the real peak, and used to be my local evening venue. Gets a bit green past that first traverse area though. Stannington ruffs though really should be reburied.
Pete
Craig_M 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Marcus Brewer:

There's nowt wrong with the Hagg. It would be a crag of unrivalled quality in Leicestershire.
 Marcus B 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Craig M:
Sure its not the worste place in the world. That would have to be 'The Gap' in south wales but it is still the worste place i've been to on/around the peak.
Craig_M 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Marcus Brewer:

Obviously you've never climbed at Harpur Hill then?
 Marcus B 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Craig M:
No I havent, Looks alright in the guidebook though. Which do you prefer then Harpur Hill or Horseshoe Quarry?
Craig_M 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Marcus Brewer:

There's not much in it to be honest, but as tottering choss goes I'd probably choose Horseshoe. However, if you ignore the climbing for a moment, Harpur Hill has better views.
MONET 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Iggy_B:

It's quite fun; a hard pull over a roof I think (I did it years ago so memory is faded) and a funny sort of traverse - not very long but quite hard. I seem to remember a big friend went in somewhere - maybe right in the back of a wide break?
 Nick Selmes 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Hotbad Peteel: "bell haggs one of the best training venues around. "

Classic, I'm going to incorporate that line into my new stand up routine.
MONET 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Nick Selmes:

It is, actually. I guess it may only be so for better climbers.
Hotbad Peteel 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Nick Selmes:

much better than a woodie, and makes yu look proper hard after a good gritstone scarring Pex is a poor imitating second and sadly frodsham hill only comes fourth
Pete
gareth hobson 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Hotbad....: 'low enough to be a boulder problem' I seem to remember that the buttress is a bit higher than you suggest and the route goes through the roof on some creaky flakes, I don't think I would like to treat this as a boulder problem unless I had Michelle McManus and Rick Waller from pop idol spotting me!
Hotbad Peteel 27 Jan 2005
In reply to gareth hobson:

been a few years since I saw it. Its about as high as the left hand wall burbage just down from burbage bridge. Not got my guidebook handy so can't tell you for sure.
Pete
Hotbad Peteel 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Hotbad Peteel:

in fact accroding to the crags database

A popular training/bouldering spot for the 'middle graders' and worthwhile popping in for a play after a day at Rivelin. Excellent problems (some quite high - up to 9m - gulp!) on good rock which can be green early in the year. Most problems are between B0 and B4 (4c and 6a).

Burglars buttress isn't the highest though so maybe 7-8m.
Pete
 Nick Selmes 27 Jan 2005
In reply to MONET: Best training venue for what, cottaging?
MONET 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Nick Selmes:

Sorry, I don't usually respond to homophobic "humour".

I am afraid I'm old school so forgive the un-modish grading, but I lived near the crag in the late 80s and used to regularly work out on a f8a traverse.
 Nick Selmes 27 Jan 2005
In reply to MONET: I don't really see what anything in your above post is trying to prove, by accusing me of being homophobic all you are trying to do is take the moral high ground in an otherwise unrelated and weak point of view; a reference to cottaging isn't homophobia on any level IMHO. But still, a fascinating approach regardless. The rest of it merely gives you an excuse for a spot of willy waving, and proves little considering that people who "train" at the tor, cressbrook and places like the woodie, school and foundry climb considerably harder, making the statement that bell hagg is the greatest training venue in the world not just a weak statement, but frankly a bunch of arse.
MONET 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Nick Selmes:

Sorry, if your purjorative use of cottaging wasn't homophobic then I don't know what is!

And the rest of your message was hard to follow because of your rudimentary grasp of the English language. Try writing in sentences, maybe?

If I understand you correctly, and as I say that is no easy thing to do, then I think you are accusing me of using this post to brag about my climbing ability. All I actually did was to answer the OP's question about a climb that I have done, and then come to his defence when you, cruelly and somewhat harshly and via only a cheap, uninformed jibe, belittled his view of Bell Hagg. Something, I'm sure you'll agree, he's entitled to - mistaken in your view or not?

To do this, I illustrated just one of the many ways in which I've found Bell Hagg useful for training. I'm not the only one, over many years. It is also a pleasant place, with trees, grass, blue sky and a few other aesthetics which you don't seem to have the IQ to appreciate. You respond with blatant (despite your protestations otherwise) homophobia and then attack me for my perceived vanity.

 BenTiffin 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Marcus Brewer: And what the hell is wrong with the gap. You have some strange opinions of crags. You'll be telling us that Warton Main is the most solid crag in Britain next.

Ben
Richard O'Rielly 27 Jan 2005
In reply to MONET: Why is that homophobic? I've been meeting other men there for anonymous sex for years.
Joe Mansfield 27 Jan 2005
In reply to MONET and Nick Selmes,

Come on boys why dont you make up and play nice, you know you like Bell Hagg really nick

ps Monet this reply is in no way inteded as homophobic, if you do think im homophobic I would be glad to meet you at bell hagg to prove otherwise.

pps insert climbing 'session' joke here
In reply to Iggy_B:

I've had a go at it - felt quite hard for E5. Crux is pretty slappy and protected by a medium sized nut (in the roof) and friends in the back. A mate of mine did it and fell onto the nut and it held. I have heard E6 waved around by some....
 Nick Selmes 27 Jan 2005
In reply to MONET:


You forgot to accuse me of being a punter or a racist, and therefore missed out on the clean sweep of clichéd ukclimbing putdowns. I was however impressed with your use of accusations of homophobia, illiteracy, ignorance and general lack of intelligence for which you will be awarded one point each. To keep in with this theme I feel I should use the staple ukc system of quoting your entire post and dismantling it section by section.

“Sorry, if your purjorative use of cottaging wasn't homophobic then I don't know what is! “

This is merely your opinion, which is obviously no more valid than mine. I don’t find it homophobic in the slightest.

”And the rest of your message was hard to follow because of your rudimentary grasp of the English language. Try writing in sentences, maybe?”

In your sentence above, you spelt pejorative incorrectly.

”If I understand you correctly, and as I say that is no easy thing to do,”

Oooh, cheap dig! Bon effort!

“then I think you are accusing me of using this post to brag about my climbing ability.”

Yep.

“All I actually did was to answer the OP's question about a climb that I have done, and then come to his defence when you, cruelly and somewhat harshly and via only a cheap, uninformed jibe, belittled his view of Bell Hagg. Something, I'm sure you'll agree, he's entitled to - mistaken in your view or not? “

Indeed he is entitled to his opinion, and he is entitled to express it and defend it, in exactly the same way as I have the right to criticise it. Also in what way is it an uninformed jibe? I have climbing regularly at Bell Hagg for several years.

”To do this, I illustrated just one of the many ways in which I've found Bell Hagg useful for training.”

And in doing so managed to do a spot of willy waving. Possibly you came across badly in that post due to your “rudimentary grasp of the English language”.

“ I'm not the only one, over many years. It is also a pleasant place, with trees, grass, blue sky and a few other aesthetics which you don't seem to have the IQ to appreciate.”

In what way is IQ linked to aesthetic appreciation? I’m pretty sure any link is tenuous. FYI I run along Bell Hagg regularly and think it is a beautiful place, however I stand by my opinion that it is no way a premier training venue on any level.

“You respond with blatant (despite your protestations otherwise) homophobia and then attack me for my perceived vanity.”

Blatant homophobia? How can it be blatant when you’re basing your assessment purely on your interpretation of a social construction?

Anyhow, I’d love to pursue this conversation further, but to be honest I’d rather get intimate with the business end of a combine harvester.
 Nick Selmes 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Joe Mansfield: I do like bell hagg, very pleasant for an evening’s bouldering, it’s just got nothing on any of the crags I mentioned earlier for training purposes. You'll have to forgive my oversight in missing Crewe Flats off my list of course! Anyway, if I didn’t jump at an opportunity for a debate like this I’d have to cross “professional troll” off my C.V.

Hope revision is treating you well...

Nick
Iggy_B 27 Jan 2005
Yeh I only asked about the route! What was this about a traverse? Looked plain and simple over the bulge where the holds are then straight up, gear looked like big cam in crack before overhang and nuts thereafter! Cheers people who answered!
 Marcus B 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Ben Tiffin:
What the hell is right with the gap? is what you should be asking yourself...
Its crumbly and dirty, it has the worste bolts ever, it always has the leftovers of some underage drinking antics and no matter when you go there will be a pile of human fieces somewhere at the crag!
But other than that its ok guess...
 matt horn 27 Jan 2005
In reply to Nick Selmes:
Your obviously taking the piss, the foundry is not a patch on the hagg.
OP Anonymous 28 Jan 2005
In reply to Hotbad Peteel:
> (In reply to Iggy_B)

Don't know about the e5. Low enough to be a boulder problem though but check the topout for dog poo or dogs or broken glass etc
> Pete


Are you having a laugh. You do it as a 'boulder' problem, and I for one won't be study on the 70 degree slope in the trees waiting to catch you. Its a fairly serious route.
 paul mitchell 28 Jan 2005
In reply to Anonymous: This route was chipped after I did it.Filled it in but the weather has taken part of that out.Best done on a cold day as the crimps are a bit mean.Certainly better than any 'route' at any climbing wall.

cheers,

Paul Mitchell
wire 28 Jan 2005
In reply to Anonymous:
I once took a tumble from something on Bell Hagg, landed falling backwards on the slope and just kept going and tumbled for miles. Quite battered etc
 Marcus B 28 Jan 2005
In reply to wire:

Miles you say
Blimey
wire 28 Jan 2005
In reply to Marcus Brewer:
Yes, ended up by Ladybower resevoir.
Joe Mansfield 28 Jan 2005
In reply to Nick Selmes:

>Hope revision is treating you well...

Please stick with the trolling, youve brightened up an otherwise very dull day (sorry afternoon) at the library!



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