UKC

After a long, slow arthritic degeneration of my hip joints, which are now causing me uncomfortable pain during and after each climbing session I have elected to go down the replacement route in the worst affected side. The Consultant reckoned I would regain up to 80% of my old flexibility but not sure he understood the type of movement that climbing entails. Therefore looking for some anecdotal experiences from anyone who is, or knows someone who is, actively climbing after a replacement. Obvious limitations are anything that could shock load the joint, i.e bouldering, but really want to know what level of climbing punterdom I'll be looking at.......

In reply to The Reaper:
My dad climbs indoors with me every week, he had his hip replaced a couple of years ago. In fact we had to wait for him to have his hip op before we had our first climbing lesson.

In reply to The Reaper:

Oh, and before anyone asks, I'm 50 this year, fit in all other respects and climb indoors every week, leading up to E2, bouldering to V4/5.

Thanks

In reply to The Reaper:
My Grandma had both her hips replaced, apparently the consultant got a bit of a shock when on a follow up she was asked if she could touch her toes; she touched the floor with the palms of both hands.

In reply to The Reaper: Hi Reaper
in responce to your post i know that Spike (the original climber who started Nevisport) had both hips replaced about 4/5 years ago and he is climbing now almost to his original standard.
he climbs indoors and out doors with no problems with his bionic hips at all.

In reply to fatboy_dean: Sounds promising. Any others?

In reply to The Reaper:

A guy I know who got one done was back climbing F7's very quickly and marvelling at his increased flexibility! Also said, it once again opened up climbs with long walk-ins which he'd not been able to do due to pre-op pain. His experience was all positive.

In reply to The Reaper: Andy Nisbit has had one I believe and his progress speaks for it's self.

I think Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson had a hip replacement, he certainly had a hip operation. I filmed him bouldering around a year later. He seems to be going well, I think this is about font 7a
see: http://www.hotaches.com/Cubby.htm
He was still in pain though!
diff

In reply to The Reaper: I have had two hip resurfacings, not replacements, and am climbing very well indeed.
Chris.

In reply to The Reaper:

There is a buy who climbs at the Beacon in North Wales, who had one last year and is now back bouldering and climbing. Seems to be fine! He's probably about the same age as you, maybe a bit younger.

In reply to Chris_Mellor: Didn't want to get too technical before but actually a resurfacing is what I am aiming for. Looking to have the other one done later too. Looks as though I have lots more climbing years to look forward to

In reply to The Reaper:
I had a resurfacing 3 years ago and it changed my life. Beforehand I was bone on bone and unable to walk more than 250 yards without sticks. Since then I've cycled, skied and climbed harder than ever and have as much flexibility in my new hip as my uninjured one.

In reply to john alcock at home:
I was about 45 when I had mine done. The rehab is the key. I worked really hard on it and was back top-roping in 2 months and back falling from the top of the bouldering wall in around 3. If you want any further advice give me an email or a call.

In reply to The Reaper:
Had mine done the other year and although I have not been able to climb as I'd like this has more to do with other issues in recuperating from a long period with a knackered hip. The actual hip joint has been fantastic and climbing itself is no problem - I'd say I'm actually more flexible in some directions than previously.

The main issue for climbers is probably the risk of dislocation. This is minimised with hip resurfacing and the current generation of large-diameter metal-on-metal replacements - mine's one of the latter. My consultant had a look at my x-ray last time I was in and said 'that'll never dislocate!'. Of course he qualified that, but he's a climber himself and fully aware of the movement involved.

In reply to fatboy_dean:

I think one was replaced and one resurfaced. I had a resurfaced hip a few years ago and I seem to manage a route or two

In reply to The Reaper:
. Therefore looking for some anecdotal experiences from anyone who is, or knows someone who is, actively climbing after a replacement.
No personal experience but I know two guys who have had it done, ( both seriously good climbers, many first ascents in Lancashire and the Peak District ... you would know the routes!)
One, further into recovery seems to be approaching previous levels, the other, even though it's early days is no punter.... Don't worry!

In reply to The Reaper:

It is quite interesting the age group of the posters on this thread who have had hip resurfacing/replacement. 40s and 50s seems young compared with the general average age for such procedures, which was 68yrs in 2005. Makes you wonder whether our lifestyles are the cause of our conditions.... well only for a nanosecond!!

In reply to jim robertson:

I have a feeling that it's linked to developments in technology. There's a much better chance now of getting a hip that allows you to climb and doesn't wear out too quickly. That means that the benefits of an earlier replacement are much clearer.

In reply to jim robertson:

Partly what you said, lifestyle is part of it.
However, when my wife had a spinal operation in 1993 the consultant said she was too old for her shortened leg to have it extnded but too young for a hip replacement. Also, the new hip joints are more reliable now,(generally) so they are now fitting them earlier according to a doctor friend.

In reply to jim robertson: Thanks for all the positive responses everyone. Seems like I'm in good company. Must admit that I'd been putting off even asking because I thought I was a) too young and b) not "disabled" enough but the Consultant explained that they are not now a last resort - he was happy to do it to keep me active into old age (ouch!)and continue a good quality of life. Interestingly he also commented that I had retained remarkably good flexibility considering the state of the joints - climbing must have helped there I think.

In reply to The Reaper:
Interestingly he also commented that I had retained remarkably good flexibility considering the state of the joints - climbing must have helped there I think.

Several physios and consultants that I saw recommended I keep climbing to maintain my movement and flexibility and I'm sure it made a huge difference.

In reply to The Reaper:

Hi there...have just arrived back from a trip to Scotland and picked up this thread. I had bi-laternal total hip replacements in April 2004 at the age of 56. I went in to have them both resurfaced but they were just too bad for that option so woke up with the second option...!!! My first words to my surgeon when he told me were "will I climb again?" his reply "of course you will". He was right - I worked hard on my rehab and my first climb after the op was in July 2004 in Pembroke. I have gone on from strength to strength with much greater flexibility than I had been experiencing for several years. I climb with my husband at every opportunity both here and abroad. We have just been in Scotland climbing ice gullies this past week.

I think there is an important issue worth discussing with your consultant and that is the type of prosthetic that will be used. When I knew I had to have both my hips replaced I sought out a surgeon who specialised in orthopaedic surgery for younger active people who want to continue with their sport. I have had two metal on metal larger diameter head replacements which means that there is an absolute minimal chance of dislocation. I had them both done at the same time as I wanted to get back climbing as soon as possible.

Another important aspect is rehab. You will get some NHS physio but in my experience this was insufficient for someone who wanted to continue with an active and demanding sport. What made a great difference to me was having regular physio and regular sports massage.

Good luck and I hope it all goes well for you.

In reply to MarionB: Is there any disadvantage in having replacement hips that are difficult to dislocate? I was wondering why they wouldn't be used for all otherwise?

In reply to The Reaper: I had a resurfacing in 2000 and am climbing as well as I ever did. (I'm 70, so I suppose that's not saying much by present day standards). I never got back full mobility in my hip, and I suspect that may be because I didn't take enough trouble with my rehab exercises. The lack of hip flexibility limits me to around 5+ at the climbing wall, and I climb to about VS outside. I have also been able to ski and run, and I managed the Joss Naylor Challenge (40-odd miles across the lakes) at age 65, a few years ago, 4 hrs inside the 24 hrs allowed for my age group. In a word, having the hip done was the best days work I ever did!

In reply to Eeeerm: There are technical reasons why more modern all-metal hip resurfacing cannot be used on everybody. These are less likely to dislocate cos they have larger sized ball and socket. The older sort had metal sockets and plastic balls of smaller diameter, which made them more liable to dislocate. When I was in hospital having my resurfacing done there was a bloke there who was touch-and-go whether he was suitable for resurfacing or would have to have an old-fashioned one. They were going to open him up and have a look to see. He told me that when he woke up, the first thing he said was "did they do a resurfacing?" and the nurse didn't know. It wasn't till the next day that the doctor said yes, it was resurfaced. He said he was so relieved that he cried.

In reply to PeteC:
Just wanted to make clear that these days the choice is not just between resurfacing and the old-style replacements with the plastic cup. The alternative is the large-diameter metal-on-metal replacement, which in fact uses the same metal cup as the resurfacings. The end-result is very similar, with very minimal chances of dislocation. That's what MarionB and I have had, with decent results. So if you can't have a resurfacing there is still hope.

In reply to The Reaper: Father had it done and was able to potter up mountains and dabble on rock - up to Sev. Mind, he was no rock athlete to start with and was seventy something when he had it done.

In reply to Eeeerm: I think that part of the reason for not using metal on metal large diameter heads as hip replacements for everyone is partially down to cost. Also surgeons have differing opinions and preferences. The prosthetics that I have are roughly double the price of the older style. Obviously the life style choices of the recipient must have some bearing on the type used. When I knew that the prognosis for my hips was pretty bad I sought out a surgeon who would be sympathetic and understanidng of my desire to continue climbing.

I consider myself to be extrememly fortunate to benefit from the advances in orthopaedic surgery. I no longer suffer the pain and the limited flexibility that was becoming part of my life. I only started climbing at the age of 53 so had not reached any dizzy heights of achievement - just to be on the rock and doing my personal best is enough. Since the operation my climbing has improved no end - as soon as I set foot on rock after the op my husband could see the difference immediately in my style and balance. This year I am planning on seconding E1's and last week I spent a great day climbing a Grade II ice gully up in Scotland.

In reply to The Reaper: my wife had a hip resurfacing a few years ago and has no problems at all with the hip...trad climbing at a fairly gentle level is about right - MS? - and see how it goes from there. Good wishes.

In reply to The Reaper: Well REaper, the outlook is not grim. Go for it....
Chris.

In reply to Chris_Mellor: Ha ha.... Looks like the only limitation will be my own ambition. Op is booked for April.