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What's good? no slabs pls!
In reply to Wilbur:
Well, Sloth, obviously, although there is a slab at the start, which might rule it out in your book.
Well, Sloth, obviously, although there is a slab at the start, which might rule it out in your book.
In reply to Wilbur:
You can tease them out of this
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/graded.php?area=7
Chris
You can tease them out of this
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/graded.php?area=7
Chris
In reply to Wilbur:
Hen Cloud.
Do the first pitch of Roof Route (not a roof), then do Final Crack instead of the second pitch. Great combo, and a good variation of climbing (including a short back and foot grade and a variety of non strenuous jamming).
Hen Cloud.
Do the first pitch of Roof Route (not a roof), then do Final Crack instead of the second pitch. Great combo, and a good variation of climbing (including a short back and foot grade and a variety of non strenuous jamming).
In reply to Wilbur:
Via Dolorosa is contender for best VS on grit. 3 pitches, top one making it 3*.
Wild Thing is fun with a pad.
Hawkwing I found v scary, altho it was my warmup on a cold day. One of those routes you really don't want to fall off yet the climbing is pretty darn hard.
Safety Net is best E1 I've done there. Nice and safe too. Biceps needed to get off ground.
A session on the top tier of Safety Net, Wild Ting, Prelude to Space (easy solo), Condor Slab would make a good day with some good ticks.
If you have a pad, do three pocket slab on the bottom tier. My first ever boulder problem!
Via Dolorosa is contender for best VS on grit. 3 pitches, top one making it 3*.
Wild Thing is fun with a pad.
Hawkwing I found v scary, altho it was my warmup on a cold day. One of those routes you really don't want to fall off yet the climbing is pretty darn hard.
Safety Net is best E1 I've done there. Nice and safe too. Biceps needed to get off ground.
A session on the top tier of Safety Net, Wild Ting, Prelude to Space (easy solo), Condor Slab would make a good day with some good ticks.
If you have a pad, do three pocket slab on the bottom tier. My first ever boulder problem!
In reply to JessClmbr:
my sort of climb
> (In reply to Wilbur)
>
> Wild Thing.
>
> Easier for the short.
>
> Wild Thing.
>
> Easier for the short.
my sort of climb
And don't forget the famous Valkyrie - which I've not done.
Hen Cloud can be v windy.
Hen Cloud can be v windy.
In reply to Owen W-G:
Valkyrie and Via Dolorosa sound good to get my mind back into the grit after N Wales!
Valkyrie and Via Dolorosa sound good to get my mind back into the grit after N Wales!
In reply to Wilbur:
Don't expect either to be easy and you'll be OK. I was a bit blase ('it's only a VS') on Via D and got a bit spooked!
Don't expect either to be easy and you'll be OK. I was a bit blase ('it's only a VS') on Via D and got a bit spooked!
In reply to Owen W-G: Via Dolorosa was given HS when I first climbed it.
In reply to Wilbur:
All the HVS/E1s at Hen Cloud are class. Here are my faves:
Hen Cloud Eliminate -- best HVS(/E1) there, brilliant crack climbing to the crux niche.
Solid Geometry -- to test your arete and head skills.
Fire Down Below -- A stonking wide crack that is quite nice. I would say that, but take a big cam or two and you could bag a second ascent.
Pinnacle Face (HVS), and Raindbow crack (VS), also worthwhile. And I really rate Grimer's Pumpy but Pointless traverse of the Caesarean face.
All the HVS/E1s at Hen Cloud are class. Here are my faves:
Hen Cloud Eliminate -- best HVS(/E1) there, brilliant crack climbing to the crux niche.
Solid Geometry -- to test your arete and head skills.
Fire Down Below -- A stonking wide crack that is quite nice. I would say that, but take a big cam or two and you could bag a second ascent.
Pinnacle Face (HVS), and Raindbow crack (VS), also worthwhile. And I really rate Grimer's Pumpy but Pointless traverse of the Caesarean face.
In reply to Jon Read:
Me too, although as I recall it's pushing the envelope slightly for E1!
> And I really rate Grimer's Pumpy but Pointless traverse of the Caesarean face.
Me too, although as I recall it's pushing the envelope slightly for E1!
In reply to Wilbur: The Mincer. If you can jam and your short itll be easy. Im neither but this probably made it more fun. Ace gear.
In reply to Wilbur: Rubberneck is pretty good on the Clouds
In reply to Wilbur:
Sauls crack should get you nicely warmed up for the E1 just L - Humdinger I think. Good and very different routes adjacent to each other - excellent!
Sauls crack should get you nicely warmed up for the E1 just L - Humdinger I think. Good and very different routes adjacent to each other - excellent!
In reply to Wilbur:
Bachelor's Left Hand and Rubberneck are both absolutely outstanding at quite tough HVS.
Bachelor's Left Hand and Rubberneck are both absolutely outstanding at quite tough HVS.
In reply to Wilbur:
Blimey, lots of ace ones.
Roaches:
Safety Net is quite nice, well-protected with a few hard moves and rests in between. One of the tricky moves is up a slab but theres gear by your waist.
Shortcomings is quite good too, its supposed to be hard if you cant reach the overlap from the ledge but I couldnt and I didnt find anything to be 5c at all. Move up to the overlap would be a bit bold though unless you could reach to place gear (need to be about 6ft, I was seconding that so it didnt matter). Again, slabbyish for a move or two but no more.
Hawkwing is class, one of my favorite E1s on grit. The traverse takes a bit of commitment but once you get going its alright. Steep slab/Off-vertical wall, but not slab-climbing.
Dorthy's Dilemma is also class, another of my favorite E1s on grit (dont be put off by the bottom being luminous!), but beware it feels very bold 5a and its a slab (I've included it coz I love it so much). Apparently it used to get HVS, but its probably the hardest E1 5a Ive done. Bengal Buttress (HVS 4c) just right is a bit of a non-line cop-out, I wouldnt bother.
Mantis is a good short "HVS 5b", the "s because I think its well worth E1. Scary and hard util you reach the break, then its easy (this may depend where you traverse on to the front face, I did it right at the bottom but my mate seconding reckoned it was easier to do it higher up). Its a slabby arete but the crux is getting round the arete, not like climbing a slab.
Valkyrie Direct is good but really hard work jamming through the roof. And the offwidth above the crux of Valkyrie is desperate - neither of us could do it (we just followed the original rotue once we joined it, which I think is probably what must people do).
Saul's Crack is awesome, again quite hard work at the roof but well worth it (the rest is easy if you can jam although apparently some people find the VS crack leading to the roof desperate, they probably chose the wrong route...)
The Sloth is obviosuly brilliant and should definitely be done. Dont stop once youve started. The gear is obvious and the jugs are huge (and one jam!)
Valkyrie original, obviously, although I think its very over-rated to be honest (perhaps unless youve only ever clibmed 10 metre grit in your life - the exposure and position is quite fun but its nothing compared to most non-grit routes!)
The Neb finish to Technical Slab makes for a really great route and its worth VS at the top.
Hen Cloud:
Slowhand and Bulwark are two good E1s but theyre both a bit bold. Bulwark is much the harder of the two, the first couple of moves up the arete are really scary (slopey!). Slowhand is very soft E1. Theyre both slightly slabby, but not slab-clibming really.
Bachelor's Left-hand is one of the best HVSs on grit, its got everythign (even better than the bets at The roaches!). Its also one of the hardest though. But if youve got stamina you should be fine. Its definitely no slab!
Delstree is really good too, good jamming crack, much easier than BLH but still middling-tough HVS.
Rainbow Crack is a good VS/HVS, definitely worth a look, lots of slopey crack climbing and a good line.
The VS version of Bachelors is good too.
Hope this helps. When youve done them al, run over to Ramshaw and try Masochism!
Si
Blimey, lots of ace ones.
Roaches:
Safety Net is quite nice, well-protected with a few hard moves and rests in between. One of the tricky moves is up a slab but theres gear by your waist.
Shortcomings is quite good too, its supposed to be hard if you cant reach the overlap from the ledge but I couldnt and I didnt find anything to be 5c at all. Move up to the overlap would be a bit bold though unless you could reach to place gear (need to be about 6ft, I was seconding that so it didnt matter). Again, slabbyish for a move or two but no more.
Hawkwing is class, one of my favorite E1s on grit. The traverse takes a bit of commitment but once you get going its alright. Steep slab/Off-vertical wall, but not slab-climbing.
Dorthy's Dilemma is also class, another of my favorite E1s on grit (dont be put off by the bottom being luminous!), but beware it feels very bold 5a and its a slab (I've included it coz I love it so much). Apparently it used to get HVS, but its probably the hardest E1 5a Ive done. Bengal Buttress (HVS 4c) just right is a bit of a non-line cop-out, I wouldnt bother.
Mantis is a good short "HVS 5b", the "s because I think its well worth E1. Scary and hard util you reach the break, then its easy (this may depend where you traverse on to the front face, I did it right at the bottom but my mate seconding reckoned it was easier to do it higher up). Its a slabby arete but the crux is getting round the arete, not like climbing a slab.
Valkyrie Direct is good but really hard work jamming through the roof. And the offwidth above the crux of Valkyrie is desperate - neither of us could do it (we just followed the original rotue once we joined it, which I think is probably what must people do).
Saul's Crack is awesome, again quite hard work at the roof but well worth it (the rest is easy if you can jam although apparently some people find the VS crack leading to the roof desperate, they probably chose the wrong route...)
The Sloth is obviosuly brilliant and should definitely be done. Dont stop once youve started. The gear is obvious and the jugs are huge (and one jam!)
Valkyrie original, obviously, although I think its very over-rated to be honest (perhaps unless youve only ever clibmed 10 metre grit in your life - the exposure and position is quite fun but its nothing compared to most non-grit routes!)
The Neb finish to Technical Slab makes for a really great route and its worth VS at the top.
Hen Cloud:
Slowhand and Bulwark are two good E1s but theyre both a bit bold. Bulwark is much the harder of the two, the first couple of moves up the arete are really scary (slopey!). Slowhand is very soft E1. Theyre both slightly slabby, but not slab-clibming really.
Bachelor's Left-hand is one of the best HVSs on grit, its got everythign (even better than the bets at The roaches!). Its also one of the hardest though. But if youve got stamina you should be fine. Its definitely no slab!
Delstree is really good too, good jamming crack, much easier than BLH but still middling-tough HVS.
Rainbow Crack is a good VS/HVS, definitely worth a look, lots of slopey crack climbing and a good line.
The VS version of Bachelors is good too.
Hope this helps. When youve done them al, run over to Ramshaw and try Masochism!
Si
In reply to Si dH:
Although I agree on 90% of the route selections...I also disagree with about 90% of the comments you made on the climbs..
You missed out Encouragement E1 5B at Hen Cloud...one of the best outings on grit imaginable if you don't like slabs. Groove, arete and then overhanging jamming crack. magic...and a real gritstone mauling!
Although I agree on 90% of the route selections...I also disagree with about 90% of the comments you made on the climbs..
You missed out Encouragement E1 5B at Hen Cloud...one of the best outings on grit imaginable if you don't like slabs. Groove, arete and then overhanging jamming crack. magic...and a real gritstone mauling!
In reply to Wilbur:
Sack off Roaches and Hen cloud; get over to Ramshaw and have the place to yourself!!!
do The Crank VS 5a; jamming/laybacking par excellence!!
Masocism, The Great Zawn, Prostation, all HVS.
Dons Crack and Browns Crack, both hard E1!!!
or Sneeze and Louie Groove for slightly softer E1's.
Tick all these in a day and you'd be VERY chuffed, so much more satisfying than any climbs on the Roaches!!
HTH
phil
Sack off Roaches and Hen cloud; get over to Ramshaw and have the place to yourself!!!
do The Crank VS 5a; jamming/laybacking par excellence!!
Masocism, The Great Zawn, Prostation, all HVS.
Dons Crack and Browns Crack, both hard E1!!!
or Sneeze and Louie Groove for slightly softer E1's.
Tick all these in a day and you'd be VERY chuffed, so much more satisfying than any climbs on the Roaches!!
HTH
phil
In reply to Chris.Allott:
Encouragement - Ive not done it. Its on the list though
Encouragement - Ive not done it. Its on the list though
In reply to Chris.Allott:
P.S. what big disagreemnts?
P.S. what big disagreemnts?
In reply to Si dH:
Saul's Crack is one of those either or routes. You either find the roof hard or the crack. I struggled up the polished slab but found the roof dead easy.
Other goodies are:
Roscoe's Wall HVS 5b - steep and commiting but with great holds, one I ended up soloing as I bouldered out the first moves then couldn't jump off. Hey ho.
Babbacombe Lee E1 5b - a broken line but with a good boulder start and a scary finish slapping for the top
Saul's Crack is one of those either or routes. You either find the roof hard or the crack. I struggled up the polished slab but found the roof dead easy.
Other goodies are:
Roscoe's Wall HVS 5b - steep and commiting but with great holds, one I ended up soloing as I bouldered out the first moves then couldn't jump off. Hey ho.
Babbacombe Lee E1 5b - a broken line but with a good boulder start and a scary finish slapping for the top
In reply to Morgan Woods: the sloth is on the wishlist of me and my girlfriend, were heading up there on wednesday.
In reply to Wilbur:
Bravo to who ever I saw repeating Fire Down Below today -- made my day!
Bravo to who ever I saw repeating Fire Down Below today -- made my day!
In reply to Owen W-G:
You really think so?
The first pitch is a polished horror, the second a bit nondescript and easy, the third is all over after one move, and if you have the right gear it's as safe as you could possibly wish. The situations are nice, but I felt that 3 stars was a bit generous, let alone a contender for the best VS on grit.
Hedgehog Crack at Hen Cloud is really pretty fun. Sequency jamming fun and the top isn't nearly as hard as the guidebook makes out.
PS, to whoever said the Clouds were banned at the moment. The 5 Clouds below the Roaches are, but (to my knowledge) Hen Cloud isn't, being somewhere else entirely and all that.
> (In reply to Wilbur)
>
> Via Dolorosa is contender for best VS on grit. 3 pitches, top one making it 3*.
>
> Via Dolorosa is contender for best VS on grit. 3 pitches, top one making it 3*.
You really think so?
The first pitch is a polished horror, the second a bit nondescript and easy, the third is all over after one move, and if you have the right gear it's as safe as you could possibly wish. The situations are nice, but I felt that 3 stars was a bit generous, let alone a contender for the best VS on grit.
Hedgehog Crack at Hen Cloud is really pretty fun. Sequency jamming fun and the top isn't nearly as hard as the guidebook makes out.
PS, to whoever said the Clouds were banned at the moment. The 5 Clouds below the Roaches are, but (to my knowledge) Hen Cloud isn't, being somewhere else entirely and all that.
In reply to Wilbur: "Come on then - the roaches/hen cloud - VS-E1." And no slabs? Go to Hen Cloud. It's better than the roaches anyway. And you can say you climb at Hen Cloud - people will fear and respect you.
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