UKC

I'm planning a trip on the continent during April, and I'm planning to climb at either Corsica or Sardinia. But, even after looking at tons of beta for each, I can't decide!! Any experience/advice would be appreciated. I'm looking for sport routes (don't have a trad rack), sun, friendly locals, and good camping.

PS- If anyone has any beta on climbing in southern Italy around Citavecchia that would be great also

Please Post!!!

In reply to marshalhoda:

Both islands are great, but I preferred Sardinia, which was also much cheaper but also more "primitive". Tourist facilites in Corsica are better.
My impression was that Corsica is a (very nice) part of France. Sardinia is like going back to another epoch in a faraway land, despite the fact that I live in Italy (talking here about the hinterland and most remote corners of the island, not the main coastal resorts). What one prefers is a matter of taste.

In reply to marshalhoda:

Sardegna if you want more than just climbing.

In reply to sphagnum:

I went to Corsica Oct 2007 & loved it. I believe Sardinia is exclusively Limestone (forgive me if I'm wrong) whereas most of Corsica is peerless granite (with bits of other rock eg Limestone as well).

In October the weather was fantastic.
Went back last year end of April, beginning of May and the weather was rubish, cold and usually raining.

We were unlucky though (or we were told), but something to bear in mind (mind you Sardinia may have been equally unseasonable for all I know).

In reply to marshalhoda:

Cycled, rather than climbed at both so can't comment on the rock itself.

Out of season both are pretty remote/quiet. Didn't enjoy Sardinia as much as never seemed to be able to find places to eat and the ones we did find weren't amazing.

The costal towns in Corsica are standard tourist fare but the center is really remote and wild. I wish I'd had a rally car instead of a 2 tonne van as the roads are really fun.

In reply to marshalhoda: Both locations are fantastic for climbing. Corsica is especially good for multi-pitch slab routes on superb granite. However, you would probably need to take trad gear. So I would suggest Sardinia if you just wanted to climb on bolts. Sardinia has lots of single pitch sports routes together with some excellent multi-pitch routes. However the bolts on a lot of the multi-pitch stuff tends to be a lot further apart than on the single pitch routes - so I would take some trad gear if you plan to do those.

In reply to Bahhhhumbug:

Sardinia has limestone, granite and some basalt. They area round Ogliastra is stunning and relatively high (1000m).

In reply to featuresforfeet:

'Out of season both are pretty remote/quiet.'

Parts of Sardinia are always quiet even in July/August

'Didn't enjoy Sardinia as much as never seemed to be able to find places to eat and the ones we did find weren't amazing.'

You must have been extremely unfortunate. Im talking about some of the best scoff available to man ! Fresh seafood, benchmark pizza, wild boar on the spit, goats cheese, cheese, cheese and did I say cheese.. local wine... boy do these guys take food seriously !

In reply to sphagnum:

I shall second that; good mix of varied single pitch and multi-pitch routes in superb locations. See:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3061

1. "If anyone has any beta on climbing in southern Italy around Citavecchia that would be great also" http://www.falesia.it/Falesie/sop=viewarticle/artid=25/falesia=Ripa+Majala.... in English. Climbing is banned, but lots of people go there. I have never been so can't comment
2. "I believe Sardinia is exclusively Limestone (forgive me if I'm wrong)" There is some good bolted granite, eg here's Johnny Dawes shinning up a nice 7b 3 km from where we live http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotzorai#Sport or Praidas half an hour away, good porphory crimps+cracks, or see the front cover of Sardiniaclimb.com with some lovely by-the-sea routes at Villasimius http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/default/AlbumCopertine/copAndrea2.jpg where lots of new routes have been bolted recently. http://www.sardiniaclimb.com/NuovoScEng/ListaNewsEn.html Most of the bolted granite crags are for winter.

So, do I qualify as a "friendly local"??

ciao Peter

Difficult choice, both great places to visit.

Corsica is rugged and quite 'chokker' in the summer months.

Most of Sardinia not as rugged - though there are some very big and interesting bumps - it is quieter, even in Summer.

Although there is some granite sports and two or so limestone sports venues in Corsica, the majority of the climbing is multi-pitch and mainly trad.

Sardinia on the other hand is mainly limestone sports climbing - of single, 2/3 pitch and multi pitch variety with some granite climbing and sea cliff trad. climbing thrown in in the north if you want it!

In reply to marshalhoda: what are you after? if its single pitch sport then Sardinia fits the bill. lots of variety in the crags, arguably slightly esoteric. some multi-pitch too iirc. quite an interesting place generally. not in the league of French or Spanish mega venues though nor does it have their vibe. i havent climbed in Corsica BTW so cant comment.

In reply to marshalhoda: Thanks everyone for the responses! I think I've decided on Sardinia, as I'm really looking for a low-key setting with lots of single pitch sport. In reply to Peter Harold, yes you most definitely qualify as a friendly local! I'll be in Sardinia from April 9-16, if you feel like going climbing send me an email!