UKC

hey folks was looking at craig y forwyn for the coming weekend anybody know if its still got access could not see any recent log book dates.Never been there before is it any good i've climbed at both castle inn and penmaen head fancy somewhere with less crowds.

In reply to gunbo:

Limited access as far as I'm aware, the BMC access database http://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=798 talks about being able to climb on the left hand end if approached from above. It doesn't say which route is the last one permitted though so you might have to take care.

Best wait for Elfyn Jones, the BMC rep to respond.

ALC

In reply to gunbo: thanks for the response i'll wait and see

In reply to gunbo:

Look here;

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1387

Human Menagerie to Purple Haze out of bounds. That's the majority of the best parts.

In reply to gunbo:
Unfortunately, despite some concentrated negotiations and meetings, most of Craig y Forwyn remains restricted. There are three seperate owners for the cliff - the central part and the eastern (right-hand section) are where the best routes are located, and both of these landowners have made it abundantly clear that they do not want to have climbers on their land.
There is an agreement with the landowner for access to the left hand (western) side of the cliff - I can't remember exactly which routes but I think all routes west of The Fox are allowed. There are some 40 or so routes here, many of which are very worthwhile, up to about 60 feet in height.
However access to the cliff is only to be made from the lane above the cliff, crossing a field, and descending a grass slope to the cliff base, before following a path and a stile at the base of the cliff, as detailed in the BMC RAD, and not directly from below.

Elfyn Jones
BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)