In reply to Removed UserHCWind:
It's a great crag in the spring before the wee biting beasties emerge - take a double rack of cams from Camalot 0.3 to 3 and maybe a 3.5 too for Cyclopath, and cut back on wires. Jamming gloves would be nice on some routes. The quickest approach is to cycle from Craigencallie (reached by a very long single track road from just west of Clatteringshaws dam) to just prior to the Backhill of Bush bothy. Park at the forestry gates at Craigencallie, cycle north and take the major right turn across the Dee, turn left and keep bearing left on the main track. The final bit of the approach has changed for the better since the last edition of the SMC Lowland Outcrops guide. Just before the bothy, the "old track" forks left over a concrete bridge. Cross this and take a new track to the left again which ends a few hundred yards from the Silverflowe (a huge floating bog). Stash the bikes here and stumble though tree stumps and brash to the Cooran Lane (a stream) which can be crossed via boulders at various points. There are ways straight across the Silverflowe but it is a maze of hidden pools and other mantraps so it is better on first acquaintance to skirt it to the north in a curving arc to the south end of the Round Loch of the Dungeon. From here the way to the crag is obvious if a bit unrelenting. This approach can be done in 1.5 hours with a bike, or add a further 45mins if on foot. Walking poles and stout boots are highly recommended for the walk in as the Silverflowe is very boggy and is covered in huge tussocks which mean it's a bit like walking in deep wet snow. Top tip, look back on the approach now and again and mark where to return to, or take a GPS, as you'll stand a good chance of getting lost if you don't!
The bothy sadly has a long history of use by local "neds" (who may well be on meds!) who use it to hold drunken parties. I was in it once when they dragged in a goat they'd shot which they proceeded to butcher and try and barbecue on the pot bellied stove. Personally, I gave up staying there after that, and just cycled in each time.
A very good alternative would be to take a tent and walk in from Glen Trool to the northern end of Loch Neldricken where there is a lovely sandy beach. From here, the Dungeon of Buchan is about 45mins and there are two other excellent but smaller crags close to hand, Memorial Crag and the Point of the Snibe. See: https://www.needlesports.com/Information/Features/Galloway-Climbing/Craigna... for full descriptions of these crags - this isn't working at the moment but should be fixed in a week or so.
Must do multipitch routes at the Dungeon include:
Traitor's Gait MVS, Monkey Puzzle VS, Heir Apparent E1, The Colonel's Corner HVS (top end), Cyclopath E1, Horns of a Dilemma HVS, Saddle Tramp E2, plus there's a load of good shorter stuff.
It is remote, so sees little traffic, but the majority of the climbs are clean and nearly everything is worthwhile and the whole area is fabulous, if hard going. For pictures see: https://www.needlesports.com/Information/Features/Galloway-Climbing/The-Dun...