UKC

Could any locals or area experts suggest where in Swanage area, or perhaps Portland, the most family friendly sport climbing is?

Children are 16, 14 and 3 so I'll probably carry the little one in the child carrier if it's much of a walk. There's a possibility that no one else will climb, although they might give a route a go, but I might just get a belay on 2 or 3 routes. I've got the Rockfax app so have downloaded Hedbury and Winspit etc. but might one of them be a good bet where the big brothers can play with their little brother relative safety while my wife belays me? Can you swim in the sea at any of those places? 

We did similar years ago, before the youngest was around, and went to the Cuttings on Portland. That was fun but my older kids weren't semi-grumpy teenagers then and liked doing some top roping! Routes of 6a or easier is what I need. They don't need to be "good" per se, because I believe firmly in the theory that any climbing is good climbing when the alternative is no climbing!

I've only got quickdraws and a rope, hence it needs to be sport.

Cheers all you lovely Dorsetdonians! 

In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby. Sounds like you're there now. It's not sport climbing, but if I were trying to nick some great climbing on a family day, I'd head to Portland Bill, set the fam up on one of the pebble beaches near the cafe, nick off on my own for 10 mins and get on The Red Crane Traverse (VS 4c) (ace and totally non scary). You could see how you got on and dissappear again for Temporary Lifestyle (HS 4b) . The whole area looks like prime crabbing territory for the wee one, and the teenagers can amuse themselves by lobbing themselves off the low cliffs into 20 foot of water.

You'll need a highish tide, but the area is very family oriented, and Red Crane traverse is as mellow as it gets.

Cheers

Tom

In reply to TobyA:

What about  Dancing Ledge ?

In reply to TXG:

Cheers Tom, I had actually had already taken a look at that area in the guide but didn't know about the family options nearby. Useful beta - thanks! It's a good idea, besides anything DWS is about the only sub-discipline of climbing I haven't really tried yet!

In reply to TobyA:

Winspit. Every time.

Big grassy flat areas near the routes, a fair number of easier routes, caves to explore. Easy to find some shade. Yes you can easily swim there.

Hedbury has  easier routes but more of a faff getting to the sea.

Dancing Ledge, the easier routes are a bit shiny, and the ledge is a very popular bathing spot with visitors. It's a bit of an oven on hot days, not a lot of shade.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

It does sound good. The guide does say good for picnicking and swimming... Is it it relatively easy access to the water there? A beach of some description?

In reply to scott titt:

Thanks Scott - I know from reading the guide you are very much the local expert!  

In reply to TobyA:

In my profile there's a link to my blog with some more info on Portland dws if it helps...

In reply to petegunn:

Thanks Pete! Some good ideas there. 

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy! I'm checking out the tide times now.

In reply to TobyA:

Gets good again towards the weekend, although some perma-deep stuff will be ok before that.

Am possibly out tomorrow morning and maybe at the weekend some point.

In reply to TobyA:

If you want to try some DWS then Seacombe might be a good option,  Seacombe has some pleasant short non tidal DWS, drop the family at the cove , easy access to the sea big flat ledges to sunbathe on. Dry bag your shoes to the buttress, its only a short swim. Take the big kids to swim through the cave round the buttress, its excellent.

Take head torch and explore the quarry caves in the west quarry, they are really long and have a suprise finale. Safe for a small child.

Solo Far from the Madding Crowd (VD), the best V Diff at Swanage.

It's not far to walk to Winspit if you scramble up at the west end of the west quarry instead of walking round to the coast path.

BTW I went past Dancing Ledge in my boat yesterday, there was no "tranquil pool", it was rammed!

In reply to TobyA:

Yes, it's easy to enter the water - I think Pete's photos and link tell you what to expect.

In reply to TobyA:

Another vote for Winspit. It has everything you’re looking for and is a short gentle stroll from the car park in Worth Matravers where there’s a really nice pub to tast the end of your day out. 

There some really nice easier grade climbing there too, can’t think of a more fun 4c than 7a+ Took Me Lung (4c) anywhere in the world.

In reply to petegunn:

After a difficult day yesterday, with the car clutch failing and only being able to go on, on holiday because my sister and brother-in-law lent us a car, we got to Dorset last night. 

Super hot this morning, went early to dancing ledge and swim in the sea and tidal swimming pool. I soloed 6 routes on the lower tier using Peter's topos. It was really very hot by lunchtime so went in search of ice cream. We drove west and went swimming again from the beach at ringstead. Does anyone know why that bay is being used as a car park for cruise liners? We guessed they're just not being used because of covid but weren't sure why there are 7 of them there off Weymouth!

Thanks for all the advice so far everyone. UKC at it's best once again!

In reply to TobyA:

Sheltered from the prevailing wind, spacious, free. There's 3 or so of them parked off the beach at Bournemouth too, presumably in the wind shelter of Purbeck/Swanage. 

Nobody's using them and Southampton is either full or more expensive.

In reply to TobyA:

Glad you had a good day. Better weather for swimming than climbing. If you want a beach which will probably be fairly empty, try Worbarrow - https://www.visit-dorset.com/things-to-do/worbarrow-bay-p1261623 the sea level traverse of the tout  Worbarrow Tout is easy but fun.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Good call on Worbarrow - plus you can have a walk round the abandoned village of Tyneham where you park to walk down (assuming it's open). The traverse is pretty easy and shows that there is still plenty new (trad) route potential in Dorset.

Glad you enjoyed Dancing Ledge too - one of my favourite places in the UK, and it's one of the crags where sport climbing really got going in Dorset.

In reply to TobyA: <waves> worbarrow beach is blinkin lovely too... cant add much in terms of the climbing as I’ve not gone with the family yet... also, square and compass in Worth Matravers...

In reply to TobyA:

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-53720419

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Went to the beach at Studland today and could sees load more anchored out that way too! Those must be the ones AJM mentioned earlier.

In reply to TobyA:

Because the main companies operate out of Southampton and I’d imagine paying for a berth in a harbour is a bit costy...

In reply to TobyA:

The (excellent) tank museum in the morning, a walk up Maiden Castle, Europe's biggest iron age hill fort IIRC! Our summer-of-covid pre-booked time-slot in the campsite swimming pool got cancelled in the afternoon because there had been thunder and lightning in the distance (something about 'elfen safety, terribly sorry...' although the elves all looked disappointed) so we went to Winspit. I climbed 4 routes with child 1 whilst the others picked blackberries and threw stones in the sea. I had a very quick swim before the hike back up to the village!

Thanks for all the advice folks.

In reply to TobyA:

Like all good seconds the guy in your photo has his full attention on the leader......... Oh! Hang on a moment.........

In reply to Trangia:

Seems to have been a chalk bag explosion below and right, too; entire block seems smeared with chalk...