In reply to ben stokes:
Ben, I take your concerns (and those of Al Evans), much more seriously than the comments made by Pete Church.
I’ve always operated on a basis of strict honesty
between climbers. Last year, I did 11 new routes on Portland. Initially I couldn’t be bothered to write them up; in the end, I only did so when other climbers nagged me. This year, I’ve done 4 new routes. Again I’ve not rushed into print. I certainly wouldn’t be entering this forum if my good name hadn’t been called into question.
Of the 15 new routes done so far, I’ve made claims for quality for only 4. ‘The Black Spot’, VS 4b, was shite, so that’s a negative claim! Other people reckoned ‘Cinema Paradiso’ was, “highly enjoyable”, so I put that in (but didn’t suggest a star). The second and second ascentionist both raved about ‘Ocean Rock’ (as did I) and I suggested 3 stars. I thought it was 7a. The second ascentionist (Aaron) could reach holds I couldn’t and suggested 6c+ so that’s what it became. In grading of difficulty and quality, I’ve tried to be as responsible as humanly possible. I would never ‘talk up’ a route just because I did it. I’m not that kind of person.
Now to ‘Valerian’. Yes, despite extensive cleaning, the lower wall still felt friable when I did it – but no more so than routes on, say Coastguard South, Gogarth or Cloggy. The upper wall (which is almost like a second pitch) was a dream of tufa ‘Superb flowstone on the upper wall,’ was the descriptive comment, by which I totally stand. ‘One of the best Grade 5,s on the island’ was my judgement, now in acrimonious dispute. There are 6 Grade 5 routes in the graded list in the guidebook. Slings Shot will always be by far the best. But I honestly feel that Valerian’s beautifully positioned upper wall makes it a better route than, say, The Sod. If I’m wrong, then I’m wrong and I’ll be the first to admit it.
