UKC

I was happily wandering up Green Gut yesterday and thought that I might as well traverse across to Brown's Eliminate to check out the gear, in case I decide to lead it later in the year when my finger ligaments have finally healed...

Where is the gear? I'm sure the guidebooks mention a bomber cam placement in that horizontal break about 1/3 up the route. I couldn't find anything - not even a tiny Alien placement. Is the gear actually on the arete itself, or is it a figment of my imagination?

In reply to Nick Smith:

Yeah, the gear is on the arete. But to be honest, its much more pleasant to solo, cos the gear is a bit off route.

In reply to Nick Smith:

The gear is at the left end of the ledge, on the ledge, just left of the arete. About a size 2.5? Can't miss it, unless some major erosion has gone on there recently.
You could always do the direct start up the technical arete, it isn't that bad. Then the gear is on route.

In reply to JR: More of an achievement perhaps, but more pleasant?! I don't think so!! Even if I were regularly onsighting 5c routes, I still don't think I'd want to try the 5b crux moves of Brown's Eliminate without something to stop me decking from so high up. Each to their own I guess.

Thanks

In reply to Nick Smith:

Nick, it really ain't that bad at all for 5b or E2 and it's a really nice route but given that the gear will keep you off the floor if you fluff the crux (which is very unlikely at least from pumping out as it's above a ledge) you quite right - we all know damn well why it makes sense to rope up. If you want to know what you're going for I'd have a look across at the holds from the top of green gut then you'll know what the deal is.

In reply to Nick Smith:
The gear is right on the arete at foot level, a Friend 2 and 2.5. There are awkward to place (try getting on your knees) but a sensible idea if you intend to muff the crux.
Enjoy

Chris

In reply to Nick Smith: Why are teh crux moves hard? Are they weird? and if so in what way? Just thinking this might be something to do this weekend if i can be bothered to leave the house!

In reply to unclesomebody:

Not wierd, just a bit thin for the first move from the ledge, then very rapidly improving.

IIRC, FA Joe Brown, & VS because all those holds were flakes. Think they were snapped off either at the time or very soon after.

Then of course a more recent snapping off, when the late and great Paul Williams met his maker.

In reply to Mike Whittaker:

As you say, a killer. Anyone do a search for this route and find out how many people have fallen off and died soloing it.

I think it should be compulsory to place protection after carrying down so many dead and injured people off it.


(I would chip the f*cking route to stop heroes dying on it.

In reply to Mike Whittaker:

According to JB in The Hard Years, it got easier after he did it (!)

I must say what's left now never looks at all snappy to me. They aren't flakes but edges - on the crux, at least.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Agreed, seemed solid to me last year when I was on it. Quite thin edges for 5b to start but gradually improving above. The cam placement at your feet is a bit awkward to place and check but is a pretty good runner for an E2 5b crux.

In reply to Nick Smith:
Not only can you get gear in the halfway break, which is enough to save you from decking if you fall on the crux, but you can also get some gear near the top, where the friable stuff that did for Paul Williams is.

In reply to Nick Smith:
if you're really desperate for beta I've got a photo of Sam placing gear in the break...

In reply to Nick Smith: As everyones already said, the gears on the arete, I managed to squeeze in two cams, although to be honest, I was very glad not to test them. As they say, the crux should be protected, but don't do what I did and throw a wobbler on the last moves! (Where the gear definately won't help you!!!) Think I managed the most desperate finish the route has seen!

In reply to Nick Smith: Climbed it on Sunday The gear is right at the far end of the ledge. I was actually lying on the ledge as I placed it so I could peer round the arete and check it was in securely. DMM 4CU size 2.5 and also a WC Zero size 4 further round to the left to back it up.

The hardest move is the first move off the ledge so I was very glad of the gear, however the climbing gets progressively easier above.

Superb route - not hard for the grade.

Go do it!

In reply to Nick Smith: If you're feeling brave when you do it, go with the direct start up the arete (bottom end 5c ish), much better than traversing out from green gut. Would recommend a mat and a spotter though 'cause the last move to reach the break and gear is a little necky...