UKC

Has anyone been climbing at john Henry quarry recently?

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PDB 03 Aug 2009
that's the one between tintwistle and crowden (not tintwistle knarr or laddow)
I was up there today checking the place out as it's quite close to where I live and I noticed that there was fresh chalk on some of the holds on the main wall, I also noticed that someone had left a rock 4 I think a few metres from the top on the same wall and a cam and a no.9 hex in the large break near the top, and a few of the pittons have been replaced with new ones. I must say it did come as a bit of a surprise when I saw them as I didn't think anyone actually climbed there anymore especially with all the rain we have had recently. is there a guidebook describing the routes and boulder problems here?
I've been going to this quarry for years but have never done anything serious up there, just a bit of abseiling to check the place out, checking for any loose rock and the condition of the fixed gear and other such things. it really is a shame the place doesn't see more traffic (well it would if the bypass was built overhead) and the place could definitely do with a good clean up especially the top which is covered in heather nearly all the time. I would love to see this place cleaned up and developed as there is hardly anything close by apart from hobson moor which is OK if you like the local scumbags throwing rocks at you from above and breaking in to your car while you climb.
tintwistle knarr is overgrown in places and the lack of belays at the top makes things very difficult and from what I saw last time I was there laddow is quite overgrown too and possibly shining clough too given where it is but I have never been there.
it really does seem a real shame to let this place go to waste, maybe if enough people want to climb there then a clean up session could be arranged. I live quite close by and I am willing to volunteer if anyone else is interested.
Removed User 03 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

Tintwhistle Knarr has got a fcuk off fence at the top to belay off and it's plenty clean at the moment on the main routes.
PDB 03 Aug 2009
In reply to Removed User:
I had a good look at the fence last time I climbed there and it looked slightly suspect, and it was overgrown the last time I was up there which wasn't long ago, also what do you class as the main routes?
anyway tintwistle knarr wasn't the subject of my post, I was asking about john henry quarry.
thanks for the heads up though.
Removed User 03 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: Poteen, Cornflake, Soapflake, The Great Arete, that HVS 5c finger crack. All clean a couple of months ago.

Some of the fence posts are suspect, but you can tie a few off!

Have you been up to Crowden Great Quarry yet?
 Al Evans 03 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: John Henry Quarry is in the BMC 1990 Kinder guide, I climbed there quite a bit back in the 70's, did a few new routes.
 Dan Lane 03 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

I have been thinking of going up there recently, seeing as i have 6 weeks off school. might try to get up a few days this holiday.

Also, go for a look at Crowden Great Quarry, great looking place, although i've never climbed there. (same guide book as John Henry)
 Rob Davies 03 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: I climbed at JHQe once maybe 5 years ago. I remember pulling a lot of ferns and grass out of the main corner (Fernilee Crack/Corner?), a good E1, though I'm sure they will have grown back. I would guess it is still used by local climbers but, as it's not in Rockfax, the masses will pass it by.

If you fancy cleaning up heather, try Den Lane - there's a 100' bank of the stuff at the top to have a go at!

Laddow has always been a bit grassy compared to more popular crags. It seemed no worse than normal last month.
 Al Evans 03 Aug 2009
In reply to Rob Davies: I cleaned out Fernilee Crack for the first free ascent, interesting that its grown back, I thought I'd done a good job.
 Andy Hardy 03 Aug 2009
In reply to dan lane:
I went to Crowden Great Qy about 10 years ago, and I've not been back. The adjective that springs to mind when thinking of it is........loose.

If you go, be careful.
In reply to Al Evans: I used to climb there all the time ten years ago! Thin jims dilemma, ornithologists corner (?) and Fernilee crack were my introductions to "EXTREME"...

Great memories.
PDB 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Daniel Armitage:
how long is it since this place was in the guidebook along with places like hobson moor and tintwistle knarr? the last time I mentioned this place I was told that it was too insignificant to be added to the current guidebook for several reasons such as there was a problem with access and it was very overgrown even back then, now as far as I know there is no access issue but it seems to get even more overgrown every time I go up there. all it would need is a good clean up and a lot more traffic and it could be returned to the classic crag I'm guessing it once was.
as I have already said, it seems a real shame to let such a good venue go to waste.
Removed User 04 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: John Henry Quarry is in the Kinder guide which is the current definitive? If I remember rightly though it's lumped in with the Tameside quarry esoterica section!
In reply to PDB: There's nothing to stop you taking a trowel and a brush and giving the routes a once over... You could contact the BMC access people, check the quarries access status and get to work!
Removed User 04 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

I left the UK in 2006..... I was under the impression that they were gonna build a new road thru JHQ & I'm v pleased that they haven't (yet!)

I used to live 5 mins away in Hadfield. Thin Jims Dilemma was my first E1 I think. Crikey Crack is a nice, clean VS as I recall. I used to solo a bit on Bulls Head Buttress (extreme left) and that area if dry.... I think the 1989 BMC Kinder Guide used to be the only one with the routes in. There are several other good routes but Kestrel Crack may be the worst VS in Derbyshire. We were almost always been the only party in the quarry...

I found that most crags in that guidebook were deserted, if you don't mind a bit of a hike then there's no reason to mingle with the crowds on the eastern edges, unless thats what you like. Same goes for the chew valley.
 Al Evans 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to PDB) John Henry Quarry is in the Kinder guide which is the current definitive? If I remember rightly though it's lumped in with the Tameside quarry esoterica section!

No, it has its own section under North Longdendale Edges.
 Al Evans 04 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: See my answer earlier.
Andl 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Al Evans:
> (In reply to Rob Davies) I cleaned out Fernilee Crack for the first free ascent, interesting that its grown back, I thought I'd done a good job.

It's amazing how quickly stuff grows back and how dirty routes become without traffic. To such a state that you think you've stumbled on a new crag until you find out it was climbed extensively comparatively recently.
Derbyshire Ben 04 Aug 2009
In reply to crimple:

Anyone who owns a garden lawn or a bed where ferns and other wildflowers grow can see how quickly huge plants can grow from seed in a matter of weeks and months.

 ste_d 04 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

clean ups are great, but in venues like JHQ (i.e. quiet at best), the only way to keep them clean is to back it up with some method to generate some real sustained traffic

otherwise the problem will only be back next summer
Andl 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Derbyshire Ben: On the crag rain washes down a bit of soil onto a tiny ledge, seeds find their way into the soil and a few years later you're fighting your way past a bush.
Andl 04 Aug 2009
In reply to ste_d: And generating sustained traffic is the problem. Ok if a new guidebook stimulates interest shortly after a clean up but then these sort of venues slide back into neglect quickly afterwards. I went there a few years after the 1990 guide to do Desperate Straights, a 3 star route, but in its vegetating state it was not worth its classic status.
brian cropper 04 Aug 2009
In reply to 999thAndy: not loose a lovely place i spent a day there with al barker gordon mason and my son a good day
 cmgcmg 04 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

We noticed the new pegs a couple of months ago. I would be up for a clean up session or just a climb. I put a few photos of the place up on here. What did you think of the huge rockfall in the side bay?? about 50 tons of rock has slid off.

The tintwistle end of the bypass seems to be permanantly off the agenda.

Hobson moor is not half as bad as it used to be for local scum bags. If you are really worried about parking then its best to park on old road. I've not heard of anyone having any trouble recently.

The other crags you mention are all in fine form. Shining clough is excellent and well worth a visit as is laddow. Tinsel Knarr is just too hard. Far black clough is high on my list of places to visit.
 Al Evans 04 Aug 2009
In reply to cmgcmg: Thing to remember is that a lot of todays classics are as a result of the hard work of climbers of yesterday developing and cleaning off crags. You can take part in our heritage or you can just go and do the easy plums. I personally always got satisfaction for leaving behind something for somebody future climber to enjoy, I regarded it as 'doing my bit'. The classic example of a person who has beendoing this for years is Les Ainsworth who still returns to his old stamping grounds to keep them 'up to scratch'. We should all make an effort to keep our routes as we would like to climb them.
Andl 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Al Evans: Keeping old stamping grounds 'up to scratch' is a laudable approach but one that requires boundless energy and a good deal of dedication. And IMHO sometimes also riddled with the doubt that because of the trends in climbing not many will enjoy the fruits of your hard work.
 Al Evans 04 Aug 2009
In reply to crimple: But if everybody took your approach we would be much poorer off for climbable crags.
 Andy Hardy 04 Aug 2009
In reply to brian a:
> (In reply to 999thAndy) not loose a lovely place i spent a day there with al barker gordon mason and my son a good day

I laybacked up a flake and the entire thing, roughly the width and height of my wardrobe started swivelling out. Other people who were on different routes were pulling stuff off left, right and centre. Maybe I was /we were unlucky. As I said it was 10 years ago, maybe more traffic has sorted out the choss.
Andl 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Al Evans: Al, I speak as an inveterate crag cleaner myself having re-discovered and re-instated more than my fair share of trad routes/crags recently. But also one who sometimes wonders about the time and effort involved and whether it is worthwhile given the trends in climbing. But as long as I enjoy doing it I will continue regardless.
 Al Evans 04 Aug 2009
In reply to crimple: My thoughts entirely.
 cmgcmg 04 Aug 2009
In reply to Al Evans:

Al

I always pull off the odd bit of growth on a climb if its in the way. Its always a fine balance between stripping a face of all its vegitation and having as little impact as possible (~while still getting to the top). A good lump of turf has often served me well at JHQ as a means of getting to the top...
 Bulls Crack 04 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:


Fortunately not thank you.
Derbyshire Ben 04 Aug 2009
In reply to cmgcmg:

Well done. It's surprising to see how few people do this these days. I wonder whether it's because they don't realise it's the best way to keep routes clean or they are afraid of being accused of damaging the environment.
PDB 05 Aug 2009
In reply to cmgcmg:
its nice to see how many people used to climb here and some that still do, I first found it while walking when I was about 9 years old, so nearly 14 years ago, it was a lot cleaner back then but still I never saw anyone climbing there and I am yet to so far, I knew nothing about climbing back then or what the place actually was or what rock climbing actually was, it wasn't until 4 years ago when I got serious with my climbing that I found out a bit more about the place, like I said before this time I never knew anyone climbed there and apart from seeing the very occasional evidence of such activity I still didn't know that anyone climbed there, I certainly have never seen anyone except dog walkers in there.
hopefully it will get a clean up soon and be back the way it was when I first found it all those years ago, and hopefully it will be in the new guidebook too.
PDB 05 Aug 2009
In reply to cmgcmg:
I went up there today for a look round in the sunshine (makes a change after all the rain we have had) I looked at your photos first to check what routes were where, I thought the only routes there were on the back wall where the pittons are, even though there are belay stakes at the top although not many. I'm not sure where the rockfall is you mentioned though, I might have been looking in the wrong place.
I didn't take my camera though so I have no recent photos to add as of yet but I will do the next chance I get, do you have any more to add?
Aiden Wright 05 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: Went here years ago, and did the E1s on the back wall. Pretty decent I though. I'm working nearby so would be happy to get stuck in with a trowel and a strimmer. Are you organising a clean up?
PDB 05 Aug 2009
In reply to Aiden Wright:
yeah I really am trying to, I'm not working at the moment so I do have some free time, I had an email yesterday from Martin Kocsis from the BMC who said he is writing the new guide for the area, which will replace the 1990 kinder guide, he also gave me the chance to write JHQ for the new guidebook which was really nice of him, I live so close so it really would be in my interest and in the interest of many other local climbers too. he said that he too would be keen to get stuck into the place to get the best routes cleaned up which is great to hear and from everyone else who said the same. it is a great little quarry and with a good clean up and regular traffic it could hopefully be restored to the great climbing venue it used to be.
fingers crossed.
 Alex Thompson 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:
For those that are interested in JHQ, there is a Moorland Grit meet there on Friday afternoon:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=366882

Guess you'll be there PDB?
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:
thanks for the info, not sure if I'll be able to make it or not yet but I'll let you know.
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to cmgcmg:
I finally noticed the rockfall you mentioned, it's a fair amount of rock that has fallen too that I some how never noticed before even though I walk about 50 yards away from it on my way in to the quarry. how on earth has all that rock just simply fell away like that, have you any idea when it happened?
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:
I also wondered if anyone had climbed at the smaller quarry to the left of john henry, I had a look on my way home today and it looks pretty good, not as overgrown as john henry but still could do with a clean up if it is climable and if there are no access restrictions on the place.
anyone have any information on this quarry? if you put john henry quarry on the ukc search it comes up with an arrow pointing to this smaller quarry but it isn't mentioned or named so I'm a little confused and I can't seem to find any information on it.
anyone have any ideas or infomation?
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to Toreador:
no that is john henry quarry, that description was made by a lad I used to climb with, back then we didn't know it was called john henry quarry, everyone in the village I have ever spoken to knows it as box canyon, but it's real name is john henry quarry which I found out when I saw the plans for the bypass and found out that it would be going through it, I was told about john henry quarry in tintwistle and wondered where it was, when I looked at the photos I knew it straight away as the place I had always known as box canyon. I'm not sure but I think the smaller one to it's left could be holly bank, if you look at the map in the link you posted, the red circle is the place I'm wondering about, john henry quarry aka box canyon is the other green arrow a little to the right of the green arrow with the red circle round it.
 Simon Caldwell 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:
The red circle in the link is the crag in the link (the small green arrow). The big green arrow is the one in the UKC database as John Henry Quarry.
I've never been to either
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to Toreador:
thanks, I couldn't quite remember the name of the other quarry.
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:
but box canyon is what john henry quarry is also well known as not holly bank quarry.
PDB 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:
does anyone else have any information on this?
I have tried looking on the ukc database and the only information I can find is the wrong information submitted by my old climbing partner, he listed john henry quarry as box canyon (aka holybank quarry) but it is john henry quarry that is better known as box canyon.
if the other small quarry I found is in fact holybank quarry then I would like to know more about it.
cicero 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: Unless I have misunderstood the latest activity ,your wish is granted .Go to www.kakibusok.plus.com/Itinerary .BMC are there tomorrow on aclean up .Wish somebody would turn up and do the same for my cause -Harcles Hill !If you get nothing from kakibusok(Chris Tan) ,try BMC website
cicero 06 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB: Or speak to Martin Koscis who oversees BMC volunteer activity-on0795889670

Cheers ,
Brian Knowles
cicero 06 Aug 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson: Sorry !Hadn't read the whole blog
 georgeg 09 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

the fixed gear which you refer to was put there recently by jim burton. it is the lower off point for a route with a technical grade of 6a.
back wall is seeping at the moment but when dry there are 3 good routes to be had - desperate straights, rated steep - both E2 and ferny lee crack E1.
they do get doen from time to time.

Irish George
 Dan Lane 09 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

I was up there with Martin Kocsis the other day.

In my opinion the place is not as good as you suggest, there is perhaps 5 to 10 worthwhile routes, but apart from them, i'd leave it well alone for fear of pulling it all down.

PS we did Crikey Crack (VS 4c) and it was pretty much perfectly clean, it will possibly get a photo in the next BMC guidebook, depending on whether Martin is feeling nice or not...
PDB 09 Aug 2009
In reply to georgeg:
I thought thats what it might be, it lookes quite difficult to reach the top from that point, sadly now only the hex he placed is still there, the cam was badly damaged and rusted and just pulled straight out when I went to check it, I have another large hex similar to the one that is already there that I will replace it with next time I am there.
also a clean up is going to take place that is being organised by martin from the BMC, he emailed me earlier today and said it might be a better idea if only some of the routes were cleaned up as quite a few of them are quite dangerous.
let me know if you would like to help, or better yet contact martin directly at the BMC, he will be able to give you more information than me.
 Dan Lane 09 Aug 2009
In reply to PDB:

Cool, i might try to get up there for that clean-up.
 Al Evans 09 Aug 2009
In reply to georgeg: Hehe, two of them are mine, the other I did the second ascent of.
PDB 09 Aug 2009
In reply to dan lane:
it seems to me that given time the whole place might crumble to the ground, look at the big rockfall near the entrance, that just fell right out of the blue so it makes you wonder about the stability of the rest of the place. it should be good though to get as much as possible cleaned up.
I have noticed that a lot of the cracks could do with cleaning out too unless you like the idea of getting covered in cobwebs and god knows what else.

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