UKC

Joint hypermobility and finger taping

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 Nicola 03 Jul 2009
For a while I have ended up with pain in my finger joints after climbing more the 3 sessions a week. Having spoken with a physio I work with (who was a climber, although a specialist in a different field), she has suggested that since I show signs of joint hypermobility, that this pain is likely to be caused by the stress on ligaments and the joint capsule. She also commented that I show early signs of arthritis in my finger joints. I have booked to see my GP in hope of a referral to physio, but suspect I will need to go privately for this. So for now I aim to build strength in these joints to help support them and use finger tape whilst climbing. However, most information on finger taping is related to supporting finger pulleys. Any ideas of what taping method would work best for joint hypermobility? Does anyone else have experience of this condition in climbing?


 koalapie 03 Jul 2009
In reply to Nicola:
Not my speciality but here goes.
Does kind of depend on which joints (MCP,PIP or DIP and then what structures)
Two main types of taping, circular and figure of eight. Archive some 'climber' magazines for an article with pictures. The figure eight should support the collateral ligaments, extensor hood and capsule a bit more, but is a bit more fiddly to apply and the difference may not be massive. In terms of joint hypermobility the pull of the tendon and pulley would subsequently stress the capsule and joint, and crimping on hyperextended DIP's or PIP's will really stress the joints.
You should only tape symptomatically, ie when you are sore, otherwise you should not apply the tape to allow natural strengthening of the structures through climbing. Controlling the frequency, intensity and type(indoor/outdoor/bouldering/routes/open hand/closed)may have a significant effect here. Part of your problem may be living in Bucks and bouldering with those freaks at the climb! (open hand outdoor clibing good!)Lumbrical and interossei strengthening may also help somewhat.
Good Luck!
In reply to Nicola: Just two comments as I'm not an expert.

a) I've heard taping is not good for the fingers, it just hides naturally weaknesses, that will be exposed in a bad way at some time or other. If you're fingers are hurting they're are trying to tell you something - sorry! Maybe be your climbing has developed too quickly for your body.

b) A specialist is only going to tell you one thing - stop climbing! Sorry again, but this IS a fact.

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